jg-rider

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Hello from a fairly new guy. Can someone here help me? In trying to get some suggestions I'll post this elsewhere too, so that more people will see it. Well the last straw just broke the camel's back. I'm tired of having a fully hard chromed gun with mismatched parts. Bead blasting s.s. parts doesn't do it The final straw was the hook on my extractor just breaking off so it needs to be replaced. Also I need to replace a broken slide stop, some EGW fps, a factory Colt thumb safety, and an EGW ejector. Does anyone know of someone that will just hard chrome parts. I'm not having any luck in my area of OR.

Duh! I shouldn't be posting early in the A.M. but that's what happens when you're retired. I don't know why I brought the extractor in to the equation. What I meant to say was that with a lighter recoil spring and factory striker spring, the slide could come out of battery as you pull back on the trigger. My wife carries a Kahr K9 concealled, which as you may know has a striker system almost like a Glock, and when they first came out they had a really stiff recoil spring. So latter they came out with a lighter recoil spring for ladies. The down side being that as you pressed the trigger, the slide would also move back. I think they dropped that option. The differance of a Kahr is that it has a long smooth, almost double action pull. Not the partially cocked striker of a Glock I was thinking of applying a little heat to the tip of the rod to see if that nail head looking thing is threaded and loc-tited on. John

Here you go, 661-257-2290. I hope you find them more cordial after your purchase, than I have in the past. Can you give a web sight or a phone # for Many Bragg?

shooterready Don't forget to do the verticle test as you slowly cut coils of the recoil spring. Remember that you have two springs that create a counter pull, the striker spring, and the extractor spring when it's not chambering a round. From what I know or think I know about recoil springs, cutting coils would only increase the weight. This is based on comparing the amount of coils and wire diameter of Wolf 1911 Govt. mod. springs and commander springs. But if you got a lighter trigger pull when you cut coils off the striker spring, that throws my theory out the window John

Hi Tony Do I take your post to be criticism but not the constructive kind ? If Rem. GB were readily available around here, and if the only source for them, being Wal-Mart, weren't so far away, and if there weren't a rimfire ammo famine where you're only allowed to buy 3 bricks at a time, I would begrudgingly use only CCI or Rem GB or what ever else is recommended. But if you read my original post, I wrote that my problem was with all ammo including CCI & Rem. GB. I had to figure out what was wrong myself because the AA company wasn't any help. If I want to try to come up with a possible fix for my AA Glock conversion's ammo issues, that's my prerogative. I don't see anything in my posts that resembles moaning. If you want to think that shooting just what's prescribed by AA is OK with you, that's your prerogative. Just please don't call what I do as moaning. I don't sit back and always accept what I'm told. I've seen differant AA conversions have different rates of failures using Fed ammo. It seemed to me that the older style mags had less failures to extract. At first I thought that the Fed ammo issues in the Glock conversions was because a stiff recoil spring was needed to counter the force of a cocked striker spring when the slide was in battery. So I kind of accepted the Fed and other ammo restriction. But then I saw that the AA conversion units for 1911's had tha same ammo issues. There isn't a need for a stiff recoil spring in those conversion units because when the slide is in battery, there isn't any counter pull from the cocked hammer. I shoot an older, heavy, all steel slide, Colt Ace, with a 14# recoil spring and a 23# factory mainspring in speed steel matches, using any cheap ammo I can find without any problems. That pistol runs 100% reliable with high vel. ammo and those springs And I also use an older all steel slide, heavy recoil springed High Standard Victor. This one runs 100% with anything, even .22 longs, shorts, subsonics when a silencer is attached And I've seen lots of Rugers and Brownings and other conversion units used in matches, using any cheap ammo with almost no failures. But I've only seen one AA Glock conversion used and it had lots of problems. I like to think that all my trouble shooting has made my conversion unit more reliable than any that's come out of the factory, using a wider range of ammo than what is prescribed. But I still don't trust it to compete with. John Shooterready I'm don't see where the striker spring plays into the extraction problem. That spring doesn't create any tension as the slide moves back. The tension is created as the slide comes forward, cocking the stricker and causing a pull against the recoil spring. I hope you haven't created a misfire issue. Am I missing something ? John

Range report. Remy Golden Bullet working 100% in AA conv. I'm now working on getting Fed. VP to run. Will post in next week or so on results. Hi Have you seen this post ? http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82788 #15. I'm also trying to figure out the Fed. ammo problem since that's what we have most of around here. Walmart is to far to travel for small buys of Rem. G.B. I added a new modification since that post. What I did was get another 6x32 hex head screw that's being used as a disconnector in the AA slide. I turned down the head to .165" useing my almost a lathe, so that now there is very little resistance as the connector rides past it as the slide goes back. I can't go any smaller because then the trigger won't reset, but ymmv. With this last mod and Slide Glide I can now run 4 full 13 round mags 100% but by the fifth mag the stove pipes start to happen. I don't understand why. I have a Colt Ace with a heavy all steel slide that I use in steel matches. I use Feds. and all the cheapest ammo I can buy. They all work 100% reliably. The thing the ace has is a floating chamber. It's accurate enough that with a standing 2 handed hold I can hit 8"steel plates out at 50 yards about 8 times out of every 10 round mag. The AA conversion is able to do the same thing, and the P.O.I. of Rem G.B. and Fed value pack is about the same. All that I can think of is a quickly dirtied / tight chamber with a sloppy extractor. I'm thinking of tightening the extractor'S vertical play by silver soldering a shim either on the top or bottom of it. John

Hmmm........Interesting, I didn't really pay much attention to where it stopped. It does look like it could go further up the grip, covering the thumb rest area. Adrian, did you request where it started and stopped?? or was that their standard area for the 360 stipple ? Here's more Bowie work

Let me start with a little history. I have a G17. My friend lent me his G26 with his AA conversion on it. I wondered how did they get 10 rnds. into the G26/22mag. What is done is that they use a modified follower and a very short sping plunger that holds the base plate in place. I tried the G26/22 plunger in my G17/22 mag and came up with a 13 round capacity. I couldn't get the G26 follower to fit into my mag but I could see how I could possibly modify my follower. With the follower modified I calculated that I could have a 15 round capacity. That's the max limit because the spring is fully compressed After all that I called A.A. and asked to purchase 5 G26/22 mag plungers & followers. They wanted to know why. I explained about the higher mag capacity. That was a big mistake. The refused to sell the parts to me because they were afraid they were breaking some kalifornia law even though I'm not a kalifornia citizen So I wasn't about to possibly wreck my followers so I settled on a 13 rnd capacity. I don't know what the capacity would be for other models, but I guess it can be found out by trying a G26 plunger My almost lathe....variable speed drill in a vise & a dremel tool with a cut off wheel for shaping & cutting. I had the drill turninig at a medium speed. It takes me about 10 minutes to make one now that I know what I'm doing Factory & a modified plunger made from a 3/8" or 10mm bolt with a max length of .365" from the base ot the stud to the end. This is the length I need so that the leg of the follower hits the plunger when the mag is fully loaded Cost effective method made from a wooden dowel. It really works My big concern was that the mag spring wasn't now under enough tension to bring up the last round fast enough to cause a timing problem but it didn't. I've fired thousands of rounds witrh this mag mod. with no problems. John

I've been a long time lurker and I think this is my first post here. It's a copy of something I posted elsewhere I had the problem of the fired brass staying in the chamber and another live round sandwiched in between the the chambered brass and the slide. This happened always with Fed & Win ammo and sometimes with Rem. GB and CCI. I found the problem was the newer mags, because what was happening was that as the fired brass was coming out of the chamber it would hit the right forward raised ear of the mag causing the extractor to slip off the rim. The slide would continue to travel back and strip another rnd out of the mag. I think that the Rem & CCI stuff was powerfull enough to allow the brass to travel back most of the time even after hitting the raised ears of my mags, but the Fed stuff wasn't. My fix was to file down the mag ears level to the ledge of the barrel just behind the chamber. My unit still doesn't like Fed stuff, the brass will now extract out of the chamber all the time, but I now have stove pipes with it. I don't think the Fed stuff is powerfull enough to over come the recoil spring tension. John I now have 100% ejection & feeding with Rem GB, CCI, & Win 333 bulk ammo. Even with my modified 13 rnd. mags The other problem I had after fixing the mag problem was getting getting the extractor to grab a fully chambered round so that I didn't have to use a dowel to push out the brass. I had to recontour the extractor for that one I have no pics but what I did was remove the striker for safety reasons and the recoil spring. Mounted the slide on the frame. Put a round into the breach face held in place by the extractor. The nose of the bullet could just be in the chamber if the rnd won't stay in place. Close the slide slowly. I noticed that as the bullet chambered and the extractor contacted the ramped cut out, the ramp caused the extractor to pull away from the bullet rim. This shouldn't be an issue if the rnd fires because the fired brass should start to push out of the chamber and the extactor comes off the ramped cut out. But if I had a misfire or the fired rnd failed to extract, like before I fixed my mags the extractor couldn't grab enough of the rim to pull it out and I'd have to use a brass rod. What I did was to use a needle file and remove metal from in front of the hook never taking any metal from the hook tip until the extractor didn't pull away when the slide was in battery with rnd under the extractor. For more extractor tension, I also cut off the head of a paneling nail and inserted into the the hole that the extractor spring goes into. What I have now is 100% hook extraction. In fact now if I chamber a rnd first and then slowly lower the slide I hear a distinct click as the exractor wraps around the bullet rim. I also stretched the extractor spring a little. Also what I did, since the rnd that was against the breach face wouldn't stay in place while held by the extractor, I noticed that the walls of the breach face where they met the breach face were a little rounded so I used a jewelers screwdriver to scribe them square. Now when I extract a fired brass slowly I have the case held straight until it hits the ejector. In fact if I pull the brass completely out of the chamber but before hitting the ejector and then push the slide forward, the brass goes right back into the chamber. John