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The Aftec is going to need some tuning to work properly. I don't care what the instructions say. They do not work properly out of the box. The bottom corner needs to be contoured, the edge that should touch the rim needs a feeding relief cut, all contact surfaces should be polished and they usually need to be relieved on the front so they don't hit the barrel. Ramped barrel feeding issues with short (factory length) ammo are well known. Every factory ramped barrel I've seen has the feed ramp cut incorrectly. Most need to be modified to feed all lengths of ammunition reliably.

The Armscor bullets are made in the Philippines. Thanks.

They are jacketed. They seem to be put together pretty well, but the run a little heavy in our experience. I hope to have their full line available in the next couple months.

G-manBart Can you expand on the how the bullets are made and how the machinery is different? I understand the basics of how the slugs and cups are made and assembled, but I've never seen it done. Thanks.

I hope it works for you when you go to the range. I was ready to junk two brand new guns because I couldn't get the mags to run, but they have been running great since I used the silicone spray. This should be the first step that anyone tries when they have problems with nosedives and Caspian mags. I haven't had any issue with the silicone spray attracting more dirt and grit than usual, but I clean any mag that hits the ground before it goes in the gun again. I haven't polished the inside of my tubes, but on Jim's recommendation I will be doing that this week.

I built two guns on Caspian high cap frames. One in 40 and the other in 9mm. I had a terrible time getting the new Caspian mags to run. After speaking with Jim via PM I did as he suggested and squeezed the mags a little. That helped, but I was still getting lots of nosedives. Using both stock springs and followers as well as Grams stuff for the Tanfoglio mags. I finally solved the problem with the simplest solution. Pure silicone spray. Take your mags apart and clean them real well. Then spray the inside of the tube, spring and follower with Pure Silicone Spray. Viola, not one more nosedive for me in the last two months (~2500 rounds). I couldn't believe that this solved my problem, but it did. The mag issue was driving me nuts and I was going to send them off to Jim to get them running, but I found the silicone spray first. I use the stuff from Ace Hardware for about $3 a can. Hope this helps.

I prefer a narrow front sight (~.090") paired with the Deep Notch rear sight from Kensight (Brownells PN: 100-002-633). I started shooting a Glock with Sevigny sights and when I switched to a 2011 I couldn't stand how short the notch was in a standard Bomar style sight. I found the Kensight and I really like being able to see the majority of the front sight height through the notch. Not sure this is how Eric does it, but this will give you an idea. Rabbit Ear Bomar

rhyrlik I'm not surprised you have side to side clearance when out of battery. I'm not sure who makes Baer slides, but Caspian and STI slides are cut so that there is more side to side clearance when the slide is out of battery. According to Gary Smith at Caspian this is to improve reliability and cycling. If you look down the frame rail slot in the slide there is a visible step in the slot right in front of where the frame rails sit when the slide is in battery. How is the fit when in battery?

I like mine at about 2.25 pounds. I ran one for a little while at 1.75 pounds, but I like a strong reset. I would occasionally get trigger freeze with the 1.75# setup. Adjusted to 2.25 pounds and that issue went away. I've done the triggers on all my own guns. I like to keep tension on the trigger with my finger while resetting the trigger. With the 1.75# trigger I felt that I had to almost remove my finger from the trigger on the reset. I've tried some really nice and light triggers from some top smiths on other people's guns, but they aren't for me. It is all about the reset for me.

I use Loctite Plastic Epoxy using a similar procedure as Whatmeworry. The only difference is I add a couple drops of black dye to the epoxy before spreading it on the grip. The epoxy is honey colored when mixed and will dry semi transparent. By adding the black dye it gives a nice solid black color to the area that is coated. I use the dye that came with Brownell's Acraglass. I use an acid brush to "paint" the epoxy on the grip and blue painter's tape to mask off the areas I don't want coated. I remove the tape after applying the AO, but before the epoxy starts to set. In my experience it isn't necessary to warm the epoxy for easy application.

Thanks for the info. I relieved the comp so that it goes on and the end of the barrel is even with the first port. Should the barrel bottom out in the comp for a tight fit or should I just screw the comp on until the barrel is even with the first port and loctite or epoxy it in place? I thought I should remove material from the front of the barrel to get the comp to index properly when tightened. The comp has material that will stop the barrel from extending into the first port.

I'm building my first open gun and I have a question about the barrel and comp fitting. Should the comp bottom out on the end of the barrel or the shoulder behind the threads? I'm using a KKM barrel and Bedell comp. Without modification of either part the back of the comp is hitting the barrel shoulder behind the threads. Looks like about three threads are showing in the comp. Thanks.

Any update on the Casepro status? I placed an order a couple weeks ago, but I'm wondering if I need to do anything else. Thanks.