Overkill

I shoot a 590. I prefer the mossberg to the 870 because the location of the slide release is behind the trigger guard instead of in front of it. This makes recovery from an undesirable chambered condition faster because it doesnt require shifting your grip. I also like that the 590 has its shell lifter in the up position when the slide is forward. If you use a roll-over loading method this makes for a nice fumble-proof box to drop the shell in prior to pushing it. You can also use a drop one in the box then use a second shell to push both in. The Ambi safety is also a nice feature of the Mossbergs.

I imagine that Dillon's objection to automation has far more to do with the cost of their liability insurance rather than any lack of technical ideas or inventiveness. Probably the best and most effective solution to problems with elbow and shoulder problems, and repetitive stress issues in general would be to redesign the machines so you could pull with the left hand periodically or exclusively depending on your condition.

I think the only type of automation I'd consider would be the semi-auto variety rather than fully auto. Some sort of deal where, when you've determined everythiing is kosher, you press and hold a button in a location clear of moving parts on the left side of the press with your left finger and a button clear of moving parts on the right side of he press with your right thumb. Then the machine fires one stroke and stops. Take both fingers off, and when ready put both fingers on.

Ah, that kind of makes sense. Anything under a certian length fits into the gap and gets passed along. Anything longer gets left behind. I wonder if you could use a series of wheels with decreasing size gaps to sort cases.

I've been trying to figure out how the the thing takes cases 1 at a time and delivers them to the top of the feed tube in the correct orientation.

There's also the "add a case feeder to the 550" variation to the buy a 650 and keep the 550 plan. IIRC the 650 doesn't swage primer pockets which may or may not be a big deal for you. If you do deal with a lot of primer crimps, the price of the swager plus your time bring the price of the 650 and 1050 closer together. Also, the 1050 doesn't have the mega-warranty, so if you break a lot of stuff, the 650 might be a better bet.

Well, it didnt go too well. Not because he was not cooperative, but just because of where my eyes all ready are. Basically my eyes are naturally moving towards a monovision situation, only the opposite orientation of what is desirable for shooting. My Dominant eye has good range of focus from just beyond front sight distance out to distance vision. My non-dominant eye only does close range, inside of FS distance even. To take my dominant eye to close range and stretch my non dominant out to distance would be very disorienting the Dr thought, since it would basically reverse the roles the eyes are currently doing. He thinks with some correction to the non dominant to give it some distance, and letting my dominant eye just do its thing is probably as good as it gets for me right now which is not all that bad he thinks. He said its pretty funny cause he makes a lot of money correcting peoples vision to basically what I've got for free.

I'm going in to see the Eye Dr. tomorrow, and I want to have him write me 2 prescriptions. One for regular every day glasses and other for lenses that are optimized for shooting. But I dont know how to tell him what the ideal shooting glasses would do. Do you want both eyes optimized for focus on the front sight? Dominant eye focused on the FS, and the other eye optimized for infiniti? Both eyes optimize for somewhere inbetween? I realize the uncorrected condition of my eyes might place some limits on what he can do, but I'd like to at least know what to ask for. Can anybody help me figure out what to ask for. I checked through the Glasses FAQs but didnt see anything that dealt with this aspect of the situation.

DQ'ing on that forward run is easy to do, but that's no excuse. A DQ trap that's a trap because you cant physically engage a target from a location safely away from the 180, is one thing. A DQ trap that's a trap because you're prone to overrun a target if you loose control is a whole nuther deal. That course could have easily been made less DQ'able if they had angled that forward assault portion towards the center of the range. If they'd introduced 10 or 15 feet of horizontal traverse into the run it would have been much better and wouldn't have messed up the rest of the COF any.

http://www.overstock.com/Bulk-Apparel/Rain....html?cid=82124 There's a lot of 60 umbrellas for $125. Put a little length of pvc pipe holder on the back of the target stick and you're in business.

I'm thinking the tape would stick a lot better if you could press it on there without having your thumb go through the cardboard.

I was passing by the cuttoff bin at Home Depot the other day and had an idea for rain proof targets. What if you picked up some of the cheep plywood cuttoffs available there. Cut out a simplified and slightly undersized version of the paper target and simply glued the paper target to the plywood. You could prepare a couple dozen of these cut outs to have on hand when it rains. Should solve the floppy target problem.

Congrats! My wife got her first teaching job last year. With budget cuts and declining enrollment and what not she got pinked for this next year. Went looking for another position, found one. A BETTER ONE! Then her old district decided they needed her back. Too bad so sad! Her new job is kicking of the science program for a new private HS with a very generous budget. I sent her a link to the SMART Board thing. That kind of technology use in the class room is exactly what the School Board is asking for an a big part of the reason she got the job.

Oh, yeah, an online chat for tech support would be great.

Check this one from the same site. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=572_1181912623 Think he got that second cuff cinched down tight enough? lol