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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

ORCA

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  1. Let me start by recommending the book "The Precision Shooting Reloading Guide". It is the best book I've seen on loading for precision shooting. It will tell you the best procedures for different types of precision shooting. The first chapter is worth the price of the book. Neck sizing is done with a neck sizing die, usually a bushing die. You select the bushing to give you the amount of neck tension you want. This will determine how tightly the bullet is held. With bolt guns you usually don't crimp the round. With tactical bolt guns you usually full length resize because its more important the the gun function than you squeeze a few thousands more accuracy. With neck sized brass the fit is so tight any crud in the chamber can make it so the bolt won't close. You do set your dies up to work with your chamber so you bump the shoulder back only as far as you need to. You also trim your brass according to the length of your chamber. You might want to checkout the reloading section of the Sniper Hide forum. It’s more strait forward than 6mmbr. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
  2. The Forster is an great press, I love mine. I also have a Harrell 4 position turret press that Harrell sold me for a hundred bucks because it had a scatch on it when I was picking up a powder measure. Anything Harrell makes rocks and he is a great guy who stands behind anything he makes 100%. I use the Forster most of the time, but I use the Harrell's at the range for load development. The best book I have ever seen for precision reloading is the Precision Shooting Reloading Guide. It covers different shooting disciplines, as what works for bench rest doesn't work for tactical rifle. Snipers hide is a good web site for tactical rifle, but thier empasis is on reliable ammo with acceptable long range accuracy, not groups. 6mmbr has the a lot of good information for extreme precision. Brass prep? What brass prep with Lapua brass? Thats why you buy Lapua (and its tough as hell).
  3. ORCA

    Varget

    I had 16lb of Varget on order as of 3/2. It was suppose to ship 2 weeks from the time og the order. Midway cancelled the order. "In regards to your powder order ####### we are out of the Varget powder and had to cancel the entire powder order. We have issued a credit to the credit card that the original order was placed on. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused."
  4. I got the instrutions for the trigger job from the M&P forum. I believe they have been removed.
  5. I had the same problem with failure to extract from my M&P Pro, as well as light primer strikes. I sent the gun back to S&W and they turned it around in a week and a half. The work they performed was: 1) Replaced the extractor. 2) Replaced the striker assembly. 3) Modified the barrel (I don't know what they modified). 4) Replaced the sear (I wish they had not done this as I had done a trigger job on it and had the pull down to 3lb). I put a couple hundred rounds of Winchester white box on it today with no problems.
  6. You know you are a shooter when: You buy a house two miles from the range. You use your USPSA membership number as your pin number. When you use morning meeting at work to design stages. You have to tell yourself that your not double tapping the mouse, you're doing controlled pairs.
  7. Try http://www.mcmaster.com/ Look up hairpin cotter pins. Mcmaster-Carr has everthing and it's always in stock.
  8. Great Post! I feel the only person I'm in competition with is myself. EricW, I'll give you in the academic world honesty isn't rewarded and is frequently penalized (bell curves, I won't touch graduate programs). When employeed by a large company it definenly isn't rewarded, but in small business it is rewarded. An example: My father is a hardwood lumber broker and one of the sawmills he buys from sent a load of wood to furniture company. When the wood was graded it turned out to be worth more than the sawmill had estimated it at, and my father was paid for what was shipped. Dad could have kept the money, he had purchased the wood - it was his, but he took his normal comission and sent the difference to the sawmill. The owner of the sawmill was impressed by his honesty and now my father is the only wood broker he will deal with because he doesn't have to be concerned about his honesty.
  9. It is the same barrel, you have it finished reamed to the caliber of your choice ( the AET barrels are a little different). The ramp style matters, the cuts are specific for each type. The part of the barrel that contacts the frame when the gun unlocks is flat on a Wilson/Nowlin, it is a radius on the Clark/Para. I like the Clark/Para ramp personally, the guns seem to lock and unlock easier, the Wilson/Nowlin feel kind of clunkie to me. Scheumann and Barsto barrells are both excellent. For bang for your buck I like Kart barrels.
  10. I can't speak to the Brownell's Gun Kote, but the KG Gun-Kote is excellent. If you contact KG they will send you a couple of pages of information on surface prep and how to apply it. You really need an airbrush though. The coating looks the same going into the oven as it does when it comes out (with flat black, other colors?). If you screw up when applying it, which is hard to do with an air brush, it wipes off with a little paint thinner. Surface prep is the key, it needs to be sand blasted and wiped down with a solvent, MEK, acetone, brake cleaner, ect. One bottle goes a long way, I've coated three guns and still have over half a bottle left. The guns in the photos were both done with KG Gun-Kote flat black. The limited gun is going on a year, and I've whacked it on stuff a few times and the finish hasn't shown any marks from the abuse. I'm not sure why the open gun's finish looks like the black is different shades, I guess it's the flash, the angle, or something, looking at it in my hands it all looks the same. The finish on the guns also looks identicle when the are side by side. Two home made guns You will definetly want thier Phos-S too, its a rust proofing treatment that is suppose to give 2000 hours of immertion resistance. It goes sprays on with an air brush and is dry in 20 min. It helps the coating adhere to the parts. I use the Phos-S on all kinds of tools. The coating doesn't smell very strong when being applied or baked, the solvents used to wipe it down..... The best rack I've found for suspending the parts in the oven is a wire suspention file rack the the office supply stores sell for five or six bucks in two packs, and you'll want two.
  11. I would be interested to hear what kind of barrel life people are getting with coated bullets. I've have two friends who tried some moly coated bullets, I believe they were Rangers, and both barrels were ruined by them. One person with a Scheumann barrel shot 5k rounds threw his gun and the barrel looked like a shot gun, no chamber and no rifling. The second guy shoots a Para-Ordinance and its chamber and about an inch of rifling was gone. Seeing these two guns first hand has scared me away from trying any coated bullet.
  12. Going with a long heavy dust cover for now and having cosmetic lightening cuts put in later is also an option. I shoot 155gr bullets, 180s seem like the gun cycles slowly and flips more.
  13. I've got three limited guns, a light SVI, a wide body STI, and a wide body STI with a lightened slide. I've had heavy components in the SVI and it doesn't make a lot of difference. I've also tried firing pin stops with various radiuses and not noticed much difference. The heavy guns have less percieved recoil, and I can't tell much difference between them. The one with the lightened slide sights might not lift quite as much as the completely heavy but the difference is minimal. All of the combinations are good, the differences just aren't that dramatic between any of them, unless you are really recoil sensitive. As is the conventional wisdom pick one and shoot. Really, it is the singer not the song.
  14. I'm not a machininst, I'm a control systems engineer that specializes in precision motion control and micro machining. I did own part of a machine shop for a couple of years, so I might be guilty by association. They both shoot excellently. Very smooth locking and unlocking. The barrells are fit into the frames and slides with a .001 slip fit and lapped in. The limited gun has never had a problem from day one, it has around 10k on it now, and it has shot 1" groups from a ransom rest at 50 yards. I just finished the shorty open gun it seems to be doing fine, but it only has a couple of hundred round on it. Oh yeah, the open gun is the shorty I had mentioned in other threads built on a long/wide frame and cut down.
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