ben b.

Thank you matteekay. I had wondered what the SAR Rhino was about, and this thread led me to Google and learn that it was a Mickey Mouse California law convolution.

Fellas, when you talk conversion are you referring to caliber conversion by switching cylinders or something else? A few months ago I saw a great price on a 9mm Rhino in SAO, whIch seemed dumb as hell UNLESS you could convert to DA cheap n easy.

I run .40 Lite loads, 200 gr pill I think at about 740 fps for a 148 PF. It does feel like cheating.

Now there are 3. I’ve sporadically run a .40 cal 50DS in steel and as an Outlaw wheel gun in IDPA matches. Need to get it to an ICORE match but the semi-local ICORE match is same day as the actually-local IDPA match, and…well… close & easy keeps winning out. Really a fun revolver, and always generates interest.

Thx. My gun is probably around 4-5 years old. When I bought the Rhino I bought about 20 Ranch Products (RP) moonclips, and had the 3 Chiappa clips. The Chiappas fit tight to the brass and almost always need the tool to insert or remove brass. The RP clips are looser, I occasionally lose a round from an RP clip and I can usually insert/remove brass with finger pressure on the RPs. I’ve never lost a round from one of the OEM Chiappa clips. I only use Remington-Peters or Starline brass for the Rhino. I was looking at TK Custom moonclips today and my Googling is what led me to this thread.

I have a 50DS in .40 that is a joy to shoot, sometimes do local IDPA as an outlaw with it, sometimes steel. Why do you say the Chiappa moon clips are worthless? Mine seem to work just fine with Starline or R-P brass.

They worked great for me. I haven’t seen any for sale in a while; a friend told me they stopped importing them. I loved when they were copper-colored SR primers, always knew which AR brass was mine.

I thought I needed a 3x magnifier, so I got either a PA or a PSA to try. Thumb release flips left which I didn’t like, so I reversed the scope in the mount and switched the mount around so it is index finger release and flips right. And after trying for a bit, I thought “magnifiers are heavy, get in the way, and are mostly dumb,” so I either put a scope or a red dot on the rifle, and the magnifier sits in the safe. IMHO, a 1-4x or 1-6x scope with a good reticle, maybe with a small reflex dot mounted somewhere, makes more sense for do-everything attempts.

H110 is darn good for supersonics. If you have any IMR 4227 it works pretty well, a bit less velocity than H110. For subs in a silenced AR, 1680 is the safest for cycling but also the loudest choice. 4227 and Lil Gun are quieter but less certain of full bolt lock back.

It’s not a trigger part, it’s a striker spring part that removes drag from the last bit of striker spring compression during trigger pull. You remove the slide, and remove the sliding plate at the rear of the slide to get the striker and striker spring out. You need to compress the plunger that holds the plate in place with a small pointy tool. Be careful not to slip and let it fly into dimension X. Go here: https://www.btguiderods.com/category/steyr-acc/ watch the video under GlideRite Striker Spring Guide Rods Bushings. Then order a set. I’d buy the grip plug also. Bushings

Yes I see a definite reduction in creep due to the C clip replacement with a slippery piece of Delrin. I tried the Lee spring and found it unreliable for ignition. I think the grip plug and the Glide Rites are for sure. All 6 of mine have them.

An easier task if the L was a 5”, and the tabs at bottom of 15 Rd 9mm magazines turned out instead of in for magazine extensions. I have several M series and they are nice plastic striker pistols. Adding the BT striker spring retainer (GlideRite) cleans up what is an already acceptable trigger into something pretty decent.

I have 2. This one is the best of the 2, made by Ghost I believe. I ordered from Chiappa, took a month or 2 to get. https://www.chiappafirearms.com/d-accessori.php?id=108 I also have one from multiholsters.com. The paddle seems a little flimsy, but it is working so far. It took 6-8 wks to get/ http://www.multiholsters.com/shop/outside-the-waistband-holsters/paddle-holster/

I have a Chiappa Rhino 5" in 40 S&W that is just pure revolver fun. Shot it in steel matches and as an outlaw in IDPA and a mixed-format charity match. Loaded short 180 gr RN .40 Minor loads for it. After about 900 rounds, it developed a "sticky" trigger that would sometimes not reset fully. Chiappa sent me a return tag, they had it for ~3 weeks, and returned it with an upgraded trigger that has been flawless since, perhaps 800-1,000 rounds since return. It is cool looking, and almost zero muzzle flip wiith .40 minor loads. It may not fit in any game very well, other than ICORE Limited 6 division, but goldurn... it is fun to shoot a match with it.

I cut a sheet of thin clear plastic with a relief cut near the case slider. Zip tied it to drop tube. It was a minor hassle to put on. It rotated sometimes and pushed up the drop tube. The new piece from Hornady works perfectly so far and is easier.