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rrflyer

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About rrflyer

  • Birthday 02/04/1982

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    Mike Paulsen

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. My comp rifle is around 18lbs with a 28" barrel plus muzzle brake. 20" is a more practical size for general purpose use....but then again you don't see people driving Indy cars on the street r using open guns for concealed carry guns. For 308 the 175smk and 44-45 of varget is a pretty standard load. Timney or jewell are great triggers. There's a load of Chassis and stock options out there that are ready to ship. Mcree, xlr, Manners and McMillan have distributors or are usually ready to ship.
  2. I use a vortex razor on my match gun and it is very good. The new Bushnells in the ERS and XRS line have very good glass as well. They have a new 3-12 coming out that looks like it would make a really nice hunting optic. http://forum.snipershide.com/snipers-hide-px-group-buys/225911-new-bushnell-3x12x44-lrhs-group-buy.html The a Schmidts are really nice but you can spend 7,000$ on one of those. A buddy has a March 5-40x56 and uses it for long range hunting and says his glass was better than many of the sporting scopes his guides used. I think they fun around 3,000$ Ffp is about more than just using the reticle to range but if your mainly shooting on max power it's not really needed.
  3. Harris BRMS by a long shot Atlas is second I've never seen an anschutz rail on a tactical comp rifle
  4. For me its three things. Lock time -- a big deal on many positional shots when I need to break the shot right NOW. Not about now as the crosshairs pass that 8" plate at 800 yards standing. Especially when you only have 30 seconds to make 5 shots and everypoint moves you up a position on the leaderboard. Three Recoils -- Its tougher to maintain a follow through...especially on the bigger framed AR's. Having to deal with the rifle recoil, BCG moving back, and then moving forward. All of these will work to make a shot miss when your position isn't perfect. And shooting off the odd barricades and positions it rarely is. Shooting a large frame AR is different than the smaller framed ones. Immediate follow up shot --- Its actually a bad thing. Forcing a quick second shot because of a miss and rushing a bad position, breathing, wind call, etc. Those were the few things I've noticed when I had my DPMS 260. The rifle shot .75 moa but my hits off barricades were worse than a bolt gun for me. I wish I could be competitive with the big framed AR's because I think they look awesome...I've almost ordered a gap10 a dozen times but I just dont have use for it. As for scopes most people are running some in the 5-20 power. The ability to focus down to 5-10 yards is nice for certain stages. Normally people wont use above the mid-teens for a match unless you get into a paper stage. Most rifles will weigh in the 15ish lb range. It soaks up some recoil and allows you to spot hits better. A good pack is mandatory since many matches have you shooting quite a ways away your vehicles if you can get back there at all. ALL THAT BEING SAID! If you've got a rifle you like just go shoot a match! Just like when you started with USPSA or IDPA your not gonna win your first match anyhow so just go shoot. The guys that shoot these PRS matches are the same types of guys that shoot pistol matches. All good guys who enjoy shooting. No attitude and always willing to help. Go shoot and figure out what works for you.
  5. I wouldn't want to do large lots on a 550 again. I have one. Use it for rifle only. 650 for bulk loading
  6. It's about 300 - 400 more than what you could put it together yourself for depending on options. Stocks are a personal choice and I personally dislike the B/C stocks on there. You would probably be a lot better served by purchasing a rifle separately and skipping the options and spending more on a better optic. 600 dollar rifle and a 1,000 scope will be a lot more useful than a 1200 dollar rifle and cheapo scope.
  7. No dice. Still getting stuck cases. I did fix another problem. The screws that hold the brass guide piece on the casefeeder were screwed in wrong. There were two screw holes for each and the plastic that was pushed out on the other side was lifting enough of the case feed to allow cases underneath. That paired with the brass piece to far from the case feeder allowed the necks of the brass to work under the case feed plate as well. Now if I can figure out this. The convex bulge actually makes the clear plastic piece wider than the tube below...... So far in getting about 3-4 out of 20 that jam like this.
  8. My problem is the case is actually hitting the top of the tube and has enough room for the case body to get behind the switch. Hoping this helps..... Another couple thicker guitar picks to shim the case feeder for now. Ill be getting Dillon to fix this but after 40 minutes on hold today and no luck ill at least try and make it usable or now
  9. I made a spacer out of a guitar pick that moved the microswitch arm back as far as It can go. Unfortunately 223 cases can still get behind it. I don't know if there is a new mold on the clear front pieces but this one has a "belly" on it that bows in towards the motor and allows the case to get behind the switch arm. I can't get the tube 1/4" below the mouth because the set screw pulled out of the casefeeder plastic. Nonwhite plastic piece, I believe that's for the older case feeds .
  10. I decided to buy myself something new and purchased a brand new super 1050 in 223. It's been a headache and I've yet to load a round. I recieved the thing three days ago and setup/mounted it. Removed all the dies just to make sure it cycled fine. Well the case feed jams constantly with/without the spacer. 223 cases get stuck behind the microswitch lever and on top of the case feed tube(yes its installed arrow up) and then after removing the case feed for the fifth or sixth time to Unjam it the set screw pulled out the back of the casefeeder. Now its unusable because without the casefeeder lifted up/set it puts so much downward pressure on the case feeding arm that it jams and won't feed a case into the shell plate. What a headache..... I've never had this many problems in the dozen or so other Dillon presses I've owned.
  11. Recently picked up a case pro and ordered a new set of 9mm dies for it After running the brass through the machine it still won't case guage. It gets 85% of the way in. It was my understanding that the brass should all check no problem. What am I missing?
  12. I've used a 650 to load precision rifle stuff. 260 and 308 mainly. I use a charge master to drop the powder charges and it worked ok. The 650'shellplate design is different than the 550. The 650 the case sits in the shell plate instead of under it like the 550 making it a little less consistent. I wouldnt plan on using dillons powder drop if you want really accurate charges waits. I've used varget out of it for my 223 loads and its fine for them but its plus or minus a couple tenths
  13. T4 has a butthook and the grip swell was bigger than on my T2. I liked the T2 much better
  14. Yup.... SDB primer slide Also explains why I didn't get some other parts in the box as well.
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