Chris Martin

My 1k also came with the YHM mount but the 3 prog "tuning fork" mounts that came with the 2k and 762sd don't have anything stamped on them. AAC's Phantom flash hiders were stamped YHM because they licensed the phantom flash hider from YHM. As part of that agreement, they put the YHM logo on the phantom even if they were made in house, which most of them were. AAC no longer produces the phantom design because it has been surpassed by the Blackout, so they no longer have to pay for the Phantom design license. The Blackout is a better design to reduce flash and it is tougher. To the OP, I would recommend the SWR Trident or Evo 9. The Trident is more quiet, but I haven't shot the latest Evo yet. I run my Evo on all my 9mm's including my STI 2011, Glock 17 and my 9mm AR15 SBR. I typically use the piston thread mount, but I use the 3 lug adapter for my AR. If you have the money, the new AAC Ti-Rant 9mm would be sweet. http://www.silencerresearch.com will be releasing its yearly 9mm review. I don't like the Gemtech multimount or Tundra because they clearly used the Evo as the template (The AAC pistons and adapters even work in the Gemtech's.), I won't reward them with my money for borrowing someone else's design, though it should perform like the Evo.

Keep in mind, you can always plug in an external monitor and use it as a "desktop" You can even do this for a while until that model gets old and you can pick up a replacement or replacement screen cheaper. If it were mine, I'd set it up as a small home server for all my iTunes music and movies to share around the house (I have Mac Mini's attached to my TV's) use it as a backup server, attach some external hard drives to it, etc.

Reminds me of "Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels" Boy did they pick the wrong shotguns.

100% parts assembly. There are plenty of resources on the web (www.ar15.com has complete build instructions) and several books. Just make sure you gather the correct tools for the job. I started with a kit build. Put in a few pins and springs and snap everything together. The next build was building the upper and everything else too. It's easy. Critical steps: Wear eye protection when installing the take down detents If you build the upper, do not over torque the barrel nut. The proper torque needs to be reached, but it is best to tighten, loosen, tighten, repeat until the barrel nut scallops line up with the gas tube hole. Make sure you get your hammer and trigger springs correctly installed, along with the disconnector spring (big side in the trigger) and safety check the trigger system. tape up the lower when installing the bolt catch roll pin so you don't scratch everything up when installing the trigger guard do not break off the thin aluminum tabs. If you buy a MAGPUL MIAD trigger kit with the built in trigger guard you won't even need to hammer in the pin, it is built in. Getting things running: There should be no problems getting things running if you buy good parts and the proper bolt carrier/bolt and buffer for your firearm. Different barrel lengths and stocks will dictate what buffer you'll need to run (in general) I only have built defensive AR's, so different rules may apply depending on the parts you choose. For short barrels and adjustable carbine stocks, I use an AR15 or M16 carrier and an H buffer, on 16" barrels and longer, I've used a normal carbine or rifle buffer. Ultralight/heavy carriers will require different buffers and/or buffer springs. Buy a good carrier that is properly staked and it won't leak gas and get inconsistent. Those same carriers should have a good bolt with a properly sprung extractor.

The pin match that I shoot has different categories with different rules. It makes it enjoyable and you can compete with everything or just what you have. Major = .40 and larger, 5 pins 1 foot from the front of the table Minor = less than .40, 8 pins 1 foot from the back of the table Revolver = any revolver, 5 pins 1 foot from the back of the table Carbine = straight-walled cartridges (.45ACP, .30 carbine, .40, etc) rifles, 5 pins 1 foot from front of table Sub = any rimfire, 5 pin tops cut from the used pins 1 foot from the front of the table, small target, but they fly off the table, lots of fun. Here is my current minor pin gun (9mm) that I built (sub 5 second gun with 8 pins): For Major, I shoot a 1911 in .45, Revolver is a 686, sub is whatever I feel like (Marvel 1911 .22, Sig Trailside, Buckmark, whatever) Carbine is a 9mm AR15 that just doesn't knock the pins too much, .40 and .45 work MUCH better, but that's what I have. As others have mentioned, the heavier flatter bullets work better than pointy fast ones. Just for fun, here is a video of me shooting minor with my sig P229 (click the pic): Yeah, I know, I missed twice

I would do this: TROS thread adaptor 1/2-36 2B to 1/2-28 2A With Thread protector: $60.00 TROS makes good stuff, I run their 9mm barrel in my AR.

I would recommend never to buy anything electronic, especially cameras, from random, cheap store fronts in NYC. B&H is safe obviously, anyone else and it's probably grey market, non-warranteed crap. I have the XTi (the model before the XSi) and it has been great. If you see a kit with the "standard" kit lens and a zoom lens, I'd not worry with it. The zoom lens is OK, but there are better ones out there. It would be better to take the difference in the kit cost and put it towards a better zoom lens. My next purchases for the XTi will be a good macro lens and a good zoom.

The MagPul PMAGs are great, but they are made in CO, not OH. PMAGs also have the same color follower as the mag (so, black mag, black follower) They are very good, very tough mags. Remember, all "plastics" are not the same. Magpul has worked very hard to get the polymer they use to be as tough, strong and everything resistant as possible. They have videos of their mag being run over by trucks, shot through by 5.56mm and all still functioning (seriously, 3-4 bullet holes, mag spring sticking out the side, put back in an M16 and fired full auto) PMAG Vs. Chevy: PMAG shot and function: PMAG, GI, HK Vs. HUMV: [ur] [/url] (impressive)You can get them from $14-$20 depending on model and even less from Brownells if you have the FFL/Dealer discount. Right now, order the Black, no window model. Due to demand of the Obama Effect, that model is the one they are making the most of right now. Now, if they aren't MagPul, I would pass. I've heard good things from Lancer (The L5 magazine) but have no experience.

Good point, I'm currently loading out to 1.135 (using a truncated cone bullet, even longer with round nose 147gr) I do load long for this type of load.

I run 3.8gr W231 for my 147gr 9mm loads, no signs of over pressure. I run my 9mm suppressed and it's a great, quiet, subsonic load.

I used to drink a lot of coffee. My roommate worked for a very good coffee shop ( http://www.greenberrys.com/ ) She used to get all the mistake orders and mis-grinds and such. It was incredible. $12.99/lb+ coffee for free. We drank it a lot. Once she moved out, I lost my connection for free good coffee and didn't want to pay for it, so I stopped cold turkey I would recommend them highly. They roast their owen beans locally and will ship them out to you. I like: Sulawesi (indonesia) Sumatra (indonesia) Mocha Java (blends) Mocha Java was my favorite. Different regions coffee beans have different flavors and different levels of acidity. You will want to try different kinds. I personally would not bother with "Jamaican Blue Mountain" unless you are buying it in Jamaica. More Blue Mountain is sold in the US per year than is harvested in the entire country and they only export a small amount to the entire world. There is too much of a chance you will buy a blend and not the real thing. The keep to good coffee, IMHO, is get it ground correctly for the filter type you are using and use a spoonful off grounds per 4oz of coffee (I use one heaping typical maxwell house tablespoon type scoop per line on the coffee carafe) this will give the coffee a full body, but not bitter. It's better to use too much coffee than too little. I've always though that starbucks roasts their coffee too much, it always taste burnt to me.

Take a hard look at the AAC M4-2000. It's QD, only .25oz heavier that the surefires, full inconel inside (baffels and inner core, outer core is steel, both the inconel and the stainless are of higher grade than the surefire cans, that said I doubt any of us could wear out the SF, much less the M42K's), fully welded, cheaper, minimal POI and quieter too. wrt POI shift, it has a lot to do with the barrels too. If you hang any dead weight at the end of a barrel it can shift POI, change the barrel harmonics, etc. The BEST silencer for that is the SPR/M4 because it has 5 adjustable start points so you can tune the can to your barrel and get it just right. All that does me no good though, since I got mine, I NEVER shoot without it

The surefire stuff is top notch, but I am of the opinion that there are better values out there (AAC M4-1000, M4-2000 (AKA 416-SD), SPR/M4) www.silencertalk.com www.silencerresearch.com Silencer Research just posted a 5.56 silencer shoot out. It's $30 for the premium reviews, but $30 could save you more if you were to get one that wasn't good enough for you. FWIW, the AAC SPR/M4 is more quiet. I have the M4-1000, which was only $600 and it's been great. From AAC's testing (Indoor, not mil-spec, but still representative of the sound differences between the models): http://www.aacblog.com/?p=482 ETA: Pictures and Videos: Anyway, here is a short video of a 10/22 + Pilot, STI 2011 + Evo 9 and my AR + M4-1000... (Click the pictures for the videos, The first one is the largest at 13MB or so) A few shots from my M4-1000, where the case hits the camera: Also, My suppressed STI I built:

Typically, to get a bolt carrier unstuck: While pulling down on the charging handle, smack the butt-stock down on a hard surface all at the same time. Use the energy from the hard strike on the but-stock to help you pull the charging handle. This will not be a gentle process. Now, if the charging handle is messed up or the bolt is broken and locked up in the barrel extension, might not work. That is what I would do though.

http://www.firstshotcounts.com/products/products.html NO experience with them, but they do list price. The 190-03 in the barrel design for holster draw system us spendy.