Ronemus

McMaster will make custom springs to your specifications, but it is pricey; I had 5 made 20 years ago for ~$250. They work very well, especially with a recoil buffer. Plastic buffers don't last long, but copper is very durable if you can find one that fits.

If you call him up, he makes them to order - choose your wood and you get in the queue; I got mine in a few weeks. I guarantee that he knows how to make grips for Tanfoglios.

I have wood grips made at CZgrips.com - wide selection of nice wood, and requests for customization are possible. He produces grips for CZ and Tanfoglio pistols that are first-rate.

The 10 mm Auto headspaces on the case mouth (it's rimless) so it should be taper crimped, not roll crimped; you might get FTFs with roll crimped ammo.

I use Blue Dot for 200 gr loads, and the flash is daylight bright. It works well for heavies, but you'll get better results with a faster powder for 155s.

Widener's often had 3200 40 cal 200 gr FMJs for <$200; I use only 200 gr, so I don't recall whether they had lighter bullets. At the moment they have several choices at lower prices.

You might try adhesive wheel weights (intended for aluminum wheels) - very good adhesive and fairly thin.

What was the distance from the muzzle to the first screen? Unburned powder and/or shock waves from high pressure at the muzzle can cause misreads. The recommended distance to the first screen is 15'.

I had feed issues until I installed Grams springs and followers, and gained 3 rounds of magazine capacity.

McMaster-Carr made the springs to my specifications (they have an online tool). I bought the buffers from Brownell's. All of this was done over a decade ago, so I no longer remember exact details.

I also had custom recoil springs made - the heaviest that would fit in the available space; they reduced slide velocity and the brass goes 6-8' instead of 30' with the factory springs. I also found some recoil buffers and they eliminate slide battering but need to be replaced regularly; I would prefer copper buffers, but haven't found any that fit.

My reloads with round nose and hollow point bullets have very little shank exposed, but my Hunter is over 10 years old - I have no idea how it's throated. It would probably only be an issue if you're using wadcutters.

Using too much flare when expanding the case mouth will create a bulge near the top of the case, even after crimping. Use only enough expansion to make the mouth a few thousandths than the base of the bullet; more is not better! The object is to seat bullets without shaving bits off the jacket. Use only enough crimp to remove the flare - more will be detrimental to accuracy (if you swage the bullet, the brass will spring back a thousandth or two).

My solution was to use a good spray paint compatible with the grip material; spray one coat and dust with the sand of your choice while wet, then apply a second coat for aesthetics. Grips I did this to 15 years ago and have used heavily still look pristine. Easy to do if the grips are removable, but masking can be used if they're not.

Are you using brass that is exactly the same brand, vintage, and length? Using range pickups or other mixed brass will not give uniform results. Buying a batch of quality new brass is well worth the investment. I use Starline for pistol, and Peterson for rifle. Even then I measure to ensure consistency. You can't get uniform crimps unless your brass is all the same length and has the same wall thickness.

A conventional anti-reflection coating is Teflon, and is a pretty good anti-fog.

When I was competing in college 3P on ISU target at 50' (0.008" 10) with an Anschutz free rifle, I was able to easily clean prone with no cleaning for 3 years (~10k rounds). Very little cleaning is ever needed with .22LR with a quality barrel and reasonably good ammunition.

Supply chain issues - the BlueTooth model will be back, but there is no announced time frame. The LabRadar is usable without the app, but the front panel interface is clunky and non-intuitive. There are used LabRadars available on a regular basis - check the classifieds at AccurateShooter.com.; the original version had BlueTooth, but the current firmware (downloadable installer) is needed for it to work reliably.

This is what I use most often; the XXL size should fit over the band for most folks. I have a similarly shaped soft nylon hat with an attached neck cape, but it's no longer available at the source I used - it works very well for me when shooting prone rifle; I think that's what you're really looking for and hope you can find it.

The coils are narrower than the follower so they run the full length of the magazine even with the indent.

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3M EEP-100 on Amazon - great protection with Skull Screw tips (30 dB attenuation), very comfortable (can wear them all day), 3 gain settings, rechargeable batteries.

3M EEP-100 is basic, available on Amazon; very good suppression (30 dB with skull screws), rechargeable, 3 gain settings. Other models with Bluetooth, etc. are available and are more expensive. I feel confined when wearing non-amplified plugs for extended periods, but can wear the EEP-100 all day with no issues. I use them when shooting, using chainsaws or power saws, or any other noisy activity. For me they're much more comfortable than muffs, though I do need to double up when shooting indoors; I have to do that with non-amplified plugs anyway.

The long slide compresses the spring less,so the force generated by the spring is less. The lbs/in rating could be the same, but the force generated goes up as the spring is compressed. I have a Witness Hunter (6" barrel) in 10 mm and had custom springs (the stiffest that will fit) made to tame the ejection, and also bobbed the ejector. I use polyurethane shock buffers because the slide still pounds the frame. Henning sells the cone-fit guide rods for the compact and full-size models that reportedly work well, but it wasn't available for the long slide models like the Hunter when I was setting mine up. There is a 6" version listed on his store site, but I have no idea which models it is compatible with. A brass or copper shock buffer will be longer-lived than a polymer version, so I will probably change over when I run through my stash.

If you're asking for advice, a description of the issue(s) would help.