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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About mpom

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    Calls Shots

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    Shooting, sailing
  • Real Name
    Mark Pomeranz
  1. Anyone use the Atibal 1-8x

    Thanks, will do! Mark
  2. Anyone use the Atibal 1-8x

    Umm, no, not in the same price point, close to twice the price of SE and Atibal. Price point is close to Vortex PST Gen 2, and I would expect quality to be comparable to PST, above the Atibal and SE. Not to derail this thread but is the "gap" where a target would be placed at ranges beyond 200 yards detrimental to accuracy? Am very interested in the Athlon with the 3G reticle, just looking for users input. Mark
  3. Apex barrel help

    You are welcome! Mark
  4. Apex barrel help

    Instead of a file, why not just stone the barrel hood smooth, then polish? Filing it possibly left a rough surface, which might be what is causing the hang up. Sure, a stroke with a file will fix the issue, but wear of the rough surface will eventually shorten the hood and lead to some slop. No wrong answer, but if it was me, I would stone it a bit and try it. Stoning removes less material than a file and leaves a smoother surface. On my apex barrel I filed till it was close, then finished with a stone. Hundreds of rounds later functions fine with live fire, just a hint of tightness when manipulating slide by hand. Basically no change since fitting. Then again, maybe its just my OCD kicking in... Mark
  5. M&p-loose warren rear sight.

    Its probably going to be fine with the set screw tight, but for insurance, if you want an interference fit, you can raise a few burrs on the bottom of the sight by hitting it with a center punch at a couple of locations, say one on each side of the set screw. This will displace metal so that hopefully the sight will have some resistance to moving in the slide. Mark
  6. When to replace M&p parts

    Good to know, thanks. Same issue, will try it. Mark
  7. Stretch 16 barrel info please

    How about contacting Strongside Tactical? Nothing to lose and they might know the answer. Mark
  8. replace M&P sights -- DIY or gunsmith?

    They can be, which is why Kroil, or a similar penetrant, is very helpful. Worked for me multiple times with M&Ps and other firearms. Don't forget, traditionally sights are installed right to left, so should be removed the same way, to the right, from the shooter's perspective. A padded vice is really helpful to hold slide when drifting sights, so all force is directed to sight, also reduces chance of slide flying away while convincing sight to move. Would never use a steel punch as it would deform the sight and likely ding the slide should it slip when hit. Guess if all else fails and I had no use for the old sight, I might, with extreme care not to damage the slide. Sights have to be oversized, as tolerances in dovetails are large, so aftermarket manufacturers make sure they will not get returns because the sights start out loose in some slides. Have had good luck with both metal files and various stones when fitting front and rear sights. Diamond files are faster but not absolutely necessary. Mark
  9. Cheek pad thickness?

    Think of your eye as the rear sight on a shotgun. If you are already high with pellets, then consider lowering the butt stock with shims, as raising your eye via a cheek pad will raise your point of impact. Might also move it to left if you are right handed.
  10. 2 stage trigger for 3 gun?

    Then your def'n has not experienced a well tuned single stage trigger such as a JP, where there is NO perceptible movement, until the gun goes off. Zero takeup. Same for many bolt action rifle triggers. A good 1911 trigger does have takeup, but clearly not all single action triggers do. Am interested in further feedback on the Trigger Tech trigger, as it sounds like a good 1911 trigger, some light takeup and quick reset. What I do not like on the Geislle triggers is the long reset. Mark
  11. replace M&P sights -- DIY or gunsmith?

    Did you buy the set recently? Have not seen that on the website. Mark
  12. Try placing a pencil in the bore, rubber eraser closest to breech face, point up and dry fire. See how much the pencil is smacked up by the striker. Compare this distance to another M&P if you can find one. Mark
  13. Might be a timing issue; the ramp on the trigger bar may not be raising the striker block (round piston like part) enough at the point when sear releases striker. This leads to peening of the groove in the striker. Examine the striker for any deformation due to interferance with the block. Also, see if by installing the original striker block the problem is resolved. A simple solution is to close the loop at the end of trigger bar just a bit, as that delays sear release and allows trigger bar to raise the block a bit more. Of course, it could be something completely different. Curious as to outcome. Mark
  14. replace M&P sights -- DIY or gunsmith?

    I asked that of Dawson rep a few months ago, he said they are after the boss to do that, as many customers are asking for it, but he has other projects he is working on.
  15. replace M&P sights -- DIY or gunsmith?

    As far as the front Dawson sights, file/stone till you can slide it without force half way on, then use drift punch, either the included aluminum one or a heftier brass punch to set silght in middle of slide dovetail. I ground a flat bottom to my brass punch, so more surface area meets the side of sight. The rear sight is trickier. Fitting is no problem but adjusting is a bit tedious. Easy to move more than is wanted with a hammer and punch. No big deal, as long as you know where you want sight to end up in dovetail. I use a micrometer to measure distance from side of slide to side of sight, in a horizontal plane, using the depth gauge bar sticking out of bottom of micrometer, if all that makes sense. Brownell's has a formula for sight adjustment as I think does Dawson as well. Have a MGW sight pusher made for Glocks, does not work well for M&P in my limited trials. Not really needed for the 2 M&Ps I have replaced sights on. Mark