Dave Gundry

Stock 2 large frame and Limited large frame are the same when it comes to holsters, with the exception of the Limited being slightly longer, so it will not fit in a closed end holster made for a Stock 2. Stock 2 in a Limited holster should be fine.

I've got a weaker spring in there, but it is moving freely. I was tempted to go back to the stick spring, but logic would say the problem lies with the trigger bar not being pressed down enough, something a stiffer spring would not alleviate. . Do you mean interruptor? These guns do not have a disconnector as a component. This does happen occasionally during live fire. Yes, I can fully relax the trigger and fire DA if the hammer follows. The interruptor should be completely out of the picture during SA firing and reset, AFAIK. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for the suggestions guys! More are welcome and appreciated.

I also just discovered that if I rack the slide while pulling up on it, it will not disconnect, whereas if I am pushing down on it, it will... I think that confirms my trigger bar is in need of some taller humps.

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So far, I've got a few miles on my new Stock 2 (a local club match and A3), and I am starting to notice occasional hammer follow. When racking the slide in dry fire, I've noticed the trigger won't discconnect until the slide is all the way at the rear. Looking at the design of the gun, I would expect the trigger bar to disconnect as soon as it's past the notches on the slide. With the slide off, I can see that the trigger bar humps are barely (~.005") above the bottom of the slide grooves in the frame. I did stone them slightly and polish them when new, as they were crudely cut from the factory, but I only removed ~.010" at best. I am thinking of having some material added to the humps to raise them ~.030" to help facilitate disconnection. I may order a new trigger bar to experiment on and use as a backup. Has anyone else seen this issue? Mods to the gun: Recoil/main/plunger springs Polished trigger bar humps, trigger bar to sear cage surfaces, plunger and plunger to trigger bar surfaces, polished FPB. Grips, Henning FP, Dawson ft sight.

Short answer: 11 - 12lbs. Long answer: I just chucked up a few springs in my spring testing contraption, but couldn't get a reliable full compression reading out of the stock spring & wolff 9 & 10lb springs, so I switched to a spring rate calculation: OEM Stock 2 spring (0 miles): 3.875 lb/in, 5.09" free length, .441" wire Wolff Witness Std/Full Size 10 lb spring (350 rounds): 3.438 lb/in, 5.15" free length, .440" wire Wolff Witness Std/Full Size 9 lb spring (0 miles): 2.875 lb/in, 5.41" free length, .439" wire If we just use those rates and the nameplate ratings f/Wolff, the relationship is not linear. Comparison of stock vs "10lb" yields a rating of ~11.2lbs for the stock spring, while a comparison against the "9lb" spring yields 12.1lbs. Using the spring rates, I would classify the OEM spring as 100%, 10lb Wolff ≈90%, and the 9lb Wolff ≈75%. I wish gun spring manufacturers would use spring rates instead of full compression ratings. Some more data points would be helpful.

Jgus, you may want to put the correct size pin in the gun (stock or aftermarket) to avoid potentially damaging the frame or components. Using a smaller diameter pin focuses the load on a very small area, as opposed to distributing the load over roughly half a pin circumference. Focusing that load, especially with moving components, will cause excessive wear and possibly a stress riser that could crack.

As can the profile of the slide stop (small vs large radius), but those are fairly minor changes to the overall recoil impulse in my experience, and left out for the sake of clarity.

Please don't give bad, non scientific advice here Your spring weight is going to dictate the rate at which the recoil energy of the slide gets transferred to the frame, as well as how far the slide travels. The gun will still cycle even if the slide barely goes past the base of the next round or bottoms out on the frame. Tuning this is how you can achieve a flatter shooting gun. Unless you've got an extremely unreliable gun, your slide should be travelling fast enough to impact the frame with some force. You could try to tune it such that the slide will stop somewhere between ejection and frame impact, but good luck getting it to run reliably or finding a spring heavy enough. There are basically 3 major parts to recoil that we can feel: 1. Round firing - disctated by power factor 2. Slide hitting frame - dictated by slide speed and weight 3. Slide going into battery - dictated by slide speed and weight Given an unchanging slide weight, and consistent ammo, we can play with the recoil spring to change #2 & #3. It is true that a heavier spring will impart more energy to the shooter during spring compression, but it will have less slide speed upon frame impact which negates this effect, leaving us with #3 as our main tuning parameter that can be easily felt. Putting a lighter spring in reduces muzzle dip upon going into battery, and generally is preceived as lighter recoiling. Gun springs are typically rated at full compression rather than spring rate, so a longer spring of a given rate would take more force to fully compress. Every manufacturer is a bit different, so weights can only be used as a comparison within one brand. Last time I checked Wolff and ISMI 1911 recoil springs on a spring guage, they were about 2lbs off (with ISMI being much closer to the rated weight).

2015 Stock 2 Stock: 12+ lb DA, 4.25lb SA Stage 1: 8.25lb DA, 3.4 SA - 13lb Wolff hammer spring, Bic Atlantis plunger spring, slightly tweaked trigger return spring, polished hammer strut/plunger/trigger bar/slide/disco/sear cage surfaces. Stock hammer & 2-piece sear. No trimmed springs.

Is it common to have to adjust these often? I would have figured they'd be a set it and forget it component (outside of large temp swings or load changes)... I was all set to go for the JP/Syrac or SLR, but if these require mass attention to be reliable, I may forgo the mod.

I'm only 6'4"/195 so it's not that hard for me, but I must question the necessity of tactical pants for competition shooting. If you want durable, just get some Duluth or Carhartt pants. Standard cargo pockets hold more crap than you should carry on a COF anyway.

Someone should have told Leupold M855 isn't the best ammo for 3-gun

You may want to ask this in the rifle section, but my advice is to go with either an 18" rifle length gas system setup, or a 14.5" mid length. 16" leaves you stuck with a mid length gas system at most, and only a small velocity improvement over 14.5". To stay cheap and high quality, pick up a built BCM upper and add a handguard and optic of your choosing. Vortex is releasing a ~$300 1-6x this summer...

It's on the EAA website: http://eaacorp.com/hand-guns/ Some magwells will require fitting due to variances in manufacturing tolerances. There are many 2-piece magwells on the market, and they are generally not as reliable/robust as those that are integral to the MSH (Smith & Alexander) or those that use the MSH pin or are integral to the grips. I love the Techwell systems, but they are expensive. For a cheap and relatively easy fit, go with S&A - they usually just need to have the tangs bent to meet the frame to be a good enough fit. The Techwell may require some filing to fit snuggly. Watch the weight limit if you're starting with a heavy gun.