Thomas a44592

I'm on my third scope with my .50 so if the iron sights are good- one less expensive thing to break.

I ordered a belt from Shooters Connection and it arrived ups the next day!

Few years ago I bought one of thier 4-16 scopes to put on a 50bmg. They said it was rated for 50BMG- At least it lasted for 100 rds or so. Called Horus and they would not do anything for me. I ended up sending it off to an optic repair place and they fixed it the best they could but had to fix the focus on "infinity" and said there is no way this thing was designed for .50bmg. I put it on a .223. Horus = for me too.

I went through 10000 large pistol and would not hesitate to buy more.

I bought a gun that had the Caspian diamond ghost ring- did not like it at all- you cant call your shots. I cut the top half off hoping the large bottom half the of ghost ring would work like a large notch- did not like that at all either- called Caspian and they sold me just the rear blade that had the standard notch and swithed out the blade- now I am happy.

I have two with Grams basepad -Para body - Wolf springs - and Para follower that is trimed on the bottom rear that hold 21. I have three with Dawson pad- Para body- Wolf spring and para followers- again the factory follower needs trimmed on the bottom rear and they hold 20 and are all reliable. I did not have too good of luck with the Arridondo - The plastic inserts that held the pad on would get folded down into the spring. I use the Wolf +10% springs that are oversize and trim to 12 coils I think. The factory followers I got from Brownells looked a little different than some of the older ones I had. They needed trimmed down almost flush- in the back- the part that sticks down. They are soft and I just used some sandpaper

I use liquid car wax- squirt a good amout in the media -add the brass and turn it on immediately. I have been using the same media a very long time and I use the car wax every batch and the media looks dark but the cases come out shiny with no dust.

Short guns are less forgiving since they slide travels a shorter distance- everything nedds to get done with in that shorter distance. You might check to see if the firing pin stop has front to back play and allows your extracter to move front to back a short ways- this will definately cause erratic ejection. Push on the back of the extractor with then gun is empty- it shoudn't move. If it does egw sells an oversize FP stop that will solve the problem.

I put them on a Glock 21 sf for a duty gun and they are bright in any lighting conditions but I did not care for having three dots- I am used to just a front fiber optic and black rear- so I put a plain black heinie rear sight on and left the truglo front. So far I like the setup better than anything else I have tried for a duty gun so far. I did have to knock a little off the top of the Heinie in my mill to get the zero right but it wasn't much.

I was shooting masterblasters and was very happy to see its product become available again. I got a case of 40 S&W 180gr black bullet international bullets and they look and shoot the same as the masterblasters to me.

I used some stick on numbers and then abrasive blasted the mag- It doesn't wear off!

I have carried a 22- a 22C- a 23- a 21 and now a 21sf. I use to own a 35 as well. In a glock with full power ammo I like the .45 a lot better than the .40. The recoil impulse is much softer and the gun tracks much better. I have seen several fellow officers swich from a .40 after they shot a 21 and our dept you can carry either but all those that work the road carry 21 or 21sfs with weapon mounted lights which also helps with recoil and tracking. The shooter is more important than the gun- someone who knows how to shoot will outshoot someone who does not regardless of the firearm. I would just try both and see what you like. I like the 21sf because it points (not as high) better for me than a 21 does.

The other thing that could happen if you are not holding the gun hard and you have a weak recoil spring the slide may not be going all the way into battery causing a weak strike.

Glock redesigned the trigger bar a few years ago to address the light stike problem- the old trigger bar is marked 4256 the new one is marked 4256-1. I think you can buy the new trigger bar through Brownells now. My old 21 had the old style trigger bar and I would have occasional problems with reloads using win primers but always worked fine with factory ammo. After switching to the new trigger bar it worked with the win primers.

Just so you know at least on my older PII the factory front sight is pinned on and the hole does not go through the slide so you basically have to destroy the front sight to remove it unless you drill the pin away I guess. I just hit mine with a punch until it came off. I takes some effort.