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What's Don's last name and location?

George16. Is there a "secret" how to install the locator tab spring back into the slot and under the arm?

Thanks Sprig

After a year of use I'm having intermittent extractor problems. My Open gun has been running fine until the last 2 weeks. On two of 4 stages, I had a failure to fully extract a spent cartridge resulting in a jam. So, I removed the Aftec and scrubbed it clean. It had both springs in it so I put them both back in. Same problem occurred the next match. 2 of 4 stages had the same failure. 2 different magazines were used in both of the incidents. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

These are the 6-7" long twisted wire swabs. Circular ring on one end and U shaped twisted wire that has mop material on the other end. I used them for a quick clean when dropped mags were not dirty enough to take apart and clean. I used to buy these from Midway USA. They no longer have them available nor do any other suppliers I've used. Anyone know of a source for these?

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Since some of them were beyond my capabilities I took my the gun to my Master Revolver Gunsmith. In addition to other small items, he found that the trigger pivot pin was broken (warranty item) and the gun needed to be returned to S&W. Called them and immediately received a return shipping label to return the gun. Gunsmith is writing a descriptive of the problem. The gun will ship out tomorrow.

Spent brass strikes are all very similar . The same is true with the light strike unfired rounds. Test firing tomorrow and a 250 round match. Hopefully the additional shim is the solution. The first shim was a solution a year ago.

a mix of TK, Hearth and some from a local provider with a high-end CADCAM machine. (sells them through Dillon Precision). One other thought was from a friend that said I might be short stroking the trigger. Would that mess with the timing? The light strikes are still dead center.

Correction to my previous post. Still learning correct nomenclature. The shims have been placed on the yoke, not the cylinder.

All brass is Starline Short Colt. As mentioned before, my spent brass all looks the same with a semi-deep strike in the center...except for the light stikes. I appreciate all of the suggestions and will follow the advice if the shim addition does not solve the problem.

I'm using your shims placed in the front of the cylinder and there is no movement. Are these different shims and where would they be inserted? The screw on the side plate (is that the yoke screw?) is fully seated and lock tighted.

I have not checked fitment. Still new to working on the gun myself other than changing a few parts. What would I be checking for.?

So, thank you all for the input and plan to check out these items one at a time to isolate the problem. To bad I don't have a range out my back dooor. I checked my spent brass and light strikes (5 of 280 rounds). Strain screw is tightened all the way down and hasn't moved from the lock tighted condition Fired rounds have a semi-deep firing pin mark that is uniform on all fired pieces. Checked all of my loaded ammo looking for high primers.......none Compared cylinder fit to my newer 627 that was sent as a replacement for one with a cracked area near the crane. The new gun cylinder is very tight with a very slight rub on the frame when closing the cylinder and not as smooth to open as Problem gun. Problem gun has no such rub and is much easier to open. Added a .002 shim to the .003 shim put in by my gunsmith. Now have a tighter fit. Test fire next before doing any other changes. More later.

Checked the hammer pull weight. 3 tries all came back at 4.25 lbs with a Wheeler spring gauge.