Jay870

Yeah this is where you have to rely on hopefully having good/experienced squad mates like seadog_99 that will look out for you. I won't touch anything that is a penalty, mike or looks like it could use an overlay until the shooter has had a chance to look at it.

Thanks Matt! I missed that the match book was posted but I see it now.

What time do the afternoon squads start? I could have sworn I read 2:00PM at some point, but I see the online squadding shows them starting at noon. Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just ordered the EGW stainless steel 5" full length guide rod. The Dawson seems like a great idea but given my luck lately the last thing I need to do is add more moving parts.

Tonight while practicing my tungsten guide rod broke in two. I feel lame having to ask this but I'm new to the 1911/2011 platform and am a bit unsure of what to order, I need a replacement in time for Area 5 on Friday so I don't have time to order the wrong part and return it. I bought the gun used, it is a Gans build with a Para frame, STI slide, KKM bull barrel. The build list shows it was a full length EGW Tungsten Guide rod with a Wolff spring with a CK reverse plug but no part numbers are listed. I was going to order the EGW stainless steel equivalent as a replacement but they had more options than I was expecting. I would like to stick with Wolff springs and re-use the CK reverse plug... can someone point me in the right direction? Replacement doesn't have to be EGW, but I want to stick with a high quality steel part. Thanks.

Good to know, I was left with the impression that these never drop in. I'm a 1911 noob so I don't know what is "standard". The PT just has a tongue and groove and is basically the same setup as the Wilson I took out.

Aside from fitting the tab that extends under the grip on the right side this is as it came out of the package. Once I live fire function test it I'll do some work on dialing in the thumb pads.

I just installed a Phoenix Trinity shielded ambi thumb safety and aside from having to do some fitting of the right side paddle and grip it dropped right in. I.e., I did not have to touch the lug that engages the sear once. With the grip safety removed and the thumb safety on/up I visually confirmed that the sear does not move at all when the trigger is pulled. It passes every function check. It snaps nicely on and off. If anything it is too sensitive, if it isn't completely bottomed out in the down/off position the hammer won't drop. For the record this is a Gans built wide-body with a Para frame. This was my first ever work on a 1911/2011 platform, I read every article I could find and watched every YouTube vid I could find on fitting a thumb safety and was all ready with my files and stones to do a methodical fitting this very expensive thumb safety and never made a single cut. Not sure if I should be happy or terrified lol.

Complete classifier course book is here: https://www.uspsa.org/classifiers/NCCB_4.1_2016.pdf

SNS TCFP on the left. Blue Bullet RNFP on the right

I can keep the gun the flattest by crush gripping with both hands then driving my elbows up and out to drive as much pressure into the top of the grip as possible. This technique also turns many other aspects of my shooting to shit and is a great way to end up with extremely sore shoulders. Recoil management is very important but don't chase shooting flat to the detriment of other aspects of your shooting. I've personally wasted a lot of time and effort on this and trying to unlearn it sucks.

I have a new pistol with a 1911 KKM bull barrel that does not seem to like the profile of the SNS 180gr no lube-groove bullets I have used in my other .40S&W pistols. They fail to plunk and spin even when seated all the way down to 1.10. I have a handful (literally) of Blue Bullets 180gr RNFP that a friend had given me a while back and those will plunk and spin freely at 1.160. Since I have such a small sample of the Blue Bullets I am just wondering if anyone else has found the Blue Bullets RNFP profile to allow longer COAL than the SNS TCFP profile (understanding that it will vary from barrel to barrel).

Hmmm. The only small coil springs in the gun that I can think of are the sear housing springs, left side safety detent spring, and extractor spring. Mine does not have a spring on the right safety detent and I've never seen one that does. Brand new gun?

As positive as I can be I guess. Everything sounded and felt normal, first sign of an issue was the FTE. I'm no engineer but I'd need some convincing that there was enough energy to snap the barrel clean, drive out the squib, drive out the fired projectile and leave a perfectly fine looking piece of brass partially extracted with zero damage to anything else. CZ OEM original barrel, SN# matched the frame & slide.

Yeah, rest of the gun is fine. There was no squib or double charge or any other drama, barrel just straight up broke in half.