logman

The Clark 4 leaf no longer has a value to use over the new Colt sear spring, and in my opinion should be avoided. LOG

I have also noticed that Wolff springs weigh in at full recoil compression to be very close to exactly what they are listed to be, and that IMSI are 3-4# lighter, than the listed value, Marc says it doesn't matter. It does to me. A 14# variable will not feel heavier than a 14# conventional, it will feel lighter in early, battery compression, and the same at full compression. LOG

This going hard could well be a disconnector issue with it not resetting as it should. Too little pre-travel could be a contributor. LOG

I agree and suggest a complete detail strip, replace the side plate so the edges stay sharp. Cylinder must be removed. I remove the cylinder nearly every time I clean to avoid damage, and better access. Glass bead WILL get inside and make disassemble more difficult later. LOG

What is being described is indeed trigger bounce, and would indicate insufficient tension on the center leaf. Conversely if the trigger is held back, and it follows other options are indicated. Dropping a round in the chamber, a no-no, and releasing the slide is the same as hard dropping the slide. This is to be avoided, except when checking a trigger job. LOG

Pat, You'll find that a #22 drill bit is 0.157 and pins are available from machine supply co.s ,McMaster-Carr being a national one that you can check on line. Or you might try using the shank from the end of a drill bit. A #21 bit is 0.159 check with micrometer as they can be under a little. GOOD LUCK!

PLEASE! Be aware of the bushing lug which locks it in place. After removing the guide rod and spring rotate the bushing to the left (looking at muzzle) about 45 deg.and you can see the lug through the dust cover slot,now you can push it out with the barrel.GOOD LUCK!

Wicked,If the entire fixture is out of square I'm sure Ron will make it good.Please consider that the pins, which are all that is out of square,and are meant to register the sear to a repeatable angle, the face of the adapter I believe is square with the roller.The first thing I do is slide the sear sides on a stone to remove any burrs. Then hold the sear on the pins and AGAINST the face of the adapter.Remember your goal is to match the angle with the hammer hooks exactly,not sharper nor dull.The amount of relief(be careful) and the sear spring will set your trigger weight.I have learned over the years that skill cannot be bought ,but must be acquired through practice.GOOD LUCK!

WickedBag, I had that same fixture a couple of years ago and came to the same conclusion, it's based on a false assumption. Even the tech at Brownells agreed with me! I returned it for a refund and ordered Ron Powers Series 1 sear jig. They're(the people at Power Custom )really nice people and will walk you thru it on the phone. GOOD LUCK! This fixture,the Power Custom Series 1, I've found out is used by many pistolsmiths including C&S. It's hard to believe that a products design is this faulty but it IS.

The distance of the cut past 90 deg.is most critical.All other alignments should be adjusted to that.Wil Schuemann warns against cutting the vertical surface of the standing feet past this point.