haze10

I have a Rossi revolver and the cylinder chambers are tight and won't accept cartridges without a lot of pressure. If I wanted to ream them myself what reamer would I need, throat or finish, and how do I do it. Do you know of a hunsmith that performs this service.

I learned the hard way that the Rem 6-1/2 small rifle primer has limited use in rifle cartridges. It was fine for my 30 Carbine but I had a whole case. I know the SR and the SP primers are interchangeable in terms of dimensions. The 6-1/2 has a cup thickness somewhere between a dedicated pistol primers and a real high power rifles primer. So I thought I would have a reasonable chance of using them in 40 S&W. Some reservation that my Glock 23 striker firing pin wouldn't have enough 'umph'. Well I loaded 100 rounds and went to the range. Happy to report all 100 went bang. I didn't notice any difference between these primers and the Rem 1-1/2 SP primer when loaded to the same charge weight. They felt identical. Just wanted to share this on the forum in case any one else bought the 6-1/2 during the primer shortage.

Just getting tired of processing my brass. Can anyone recommend a service for 40 S&W and 9mm where they clean, size, and remove the primer. If you know the costs please post, and if you use them yourself are you happy with them.

I've thought of that also, but was afraid that the lube would make a mess in my case feeder and chute. Sounds like its not that bad. thanks.

I'm running the 650 with the case feeder. Absolutely love it. But I not sure the best way to feed bottleneck rifle cartridges. There are no carbide lubeless dies for bottleneck rifle cases. So if you are going to resize the brass, the case has to be lubed. But do I really want to put lubed cases in my case feeder, and down the feed shute. I think it would cause a mess. Plus, you have to clean the brass on the final loaded round. The way I've been doing it is to lube the cases, resize in my single stage press, then tumble, then the clean unprimed cases go into the case feeder. But this adds addition work and time. Is there another way to do it?

Black Hills says only FFL but they don't ask for any proof. I've been buying from them for years, $200 orders at a time, and never a problem.

On the Dillon 650, the spring that pushes the pawl back on the primer disk. My spring keeps popping off. Its a new spring but that didn't make a difference. Any ideas why, or any way to fasten it in place. It comes out of the notch on the frame, not the pawl lever.

Black Hills Shooting Supplies is still taking back orders on primers.

9mm is a 9x19mm case and 380ACP is a 9x17mm case. Can I use my 9 mm dies to load 380? Not sure if the difference in height will work, but I do use 357 dies on 38 special with no problems.

Replaced the firing pin, the firing pin return spring, and that little bent metal piece that supports the return spring. The gun was acting up when it was stock. At first I change to a Volsq titanium firing pin for $30 but that didn't help. I checked the sear to make sure it wasn't dragging on the hammer as it rotated. The only thing I can guess is happening is that the bolt is not closing 100% on the cartridge. But I can't figure out how that is happening. As far as cleaning, I've been stripping the Mark II to its pieces for years. Everything is clean.

My Mark II has a lot of mileage on it. I have a Volqueston sear and trigger and extractor, new ruger firing pin, firing pin return spring, main hammer spring, and the recoil spring. Everything slides very easily and there no hangups. The pistol works reasonable good when its clean but after 30 rounds or so acts up. I thought a stronger main spring might help.

I've tried all kinds of different ammo, but it doesn't help. I keep getting light indents. I've replaced the main spring, firing pin, etc, but no luck. I actually think it may be a lock up issue with the bolt, but don't want to spend the money on a new bolt to experiment. Generally, I don't think lightening the hammer would work, most cases that would cause lighter strikes. But you may try drilling a hole and filling it with lead, to make it heavier. I'd try that but Ruger won't sell replacement hammers, because too many folks want to defeat the Mark III safety features with a Mark II hammer.

I thought about stretching the spring, but I've always heard that deforming a spring like that would not last. In other words it would work initially but quickly weaken. Are you sure this works longterm.

For the Ruger Mark II or III. I'm tired of the soft primer strikes. I really want to install a slightly strong hammer spring. But I can find is a Wolf that is 'lighter'. Has anyone matched a machine spring that will do the job.

Its probably the barrel. I got the same problem with my G23 and a Barsto barrel. Two things are wrong. first, the reason the glock barrel is unsupported is they move the ramp forward to reduce the insertion angle. Second, Barston is chambering too tight for the Glock. $200 buck wasted and Barsto will just tell you that its not designed for reloads.