Toolguy

Once you have the tool on there, you may as well tweak it a tiny bit and be done. It seems silly to go through all the hassle and expense of sending it back at that point. Besides, they won't fix that anyway. They'll say it's in spec and send it back.

You can make a tool for that out of a 4" long, 1/4" diameter piece of steel rod with a hole in each end. Drill the holes in the lathe. Center drill, then drill about .010 to .015 under size for a pilot hole. Finish drill one end 9/64" (.141) for the hammer stud, one end #38 (.1015) for the trigger stud. Make the holes about 1/2" deep. Then you can slip the tool over the stud and check for square and gently adjust as needed, by pushing on the top of the rod in the desired direction. Make the holes as close a slip fit as possible so the tool is an extension of the stud. Then you can use a small square against the side of the rod.

I have good luck with standard 3/16 bits.

I would look for a broken firing pin or hammer stud. We're all just guessing here.

It looks like you need better insulation on your heating/cooling ductwork...

A Cratex (rubberized abrasive) bit will probably be the best route to go at this point.

Last time he was on the forum was Dec. 1, 2023. If no one can contact him, I can rustle one up. I don't want to step on anyone's toes, so we need to see if he's still around first. I made a few for myself, but didn't plan to sell them. If Lee isn't going to do them any more, I can let go of one or two.

I think of the revo people as my friends, even though I haven't met some of them, so I try to help them as my skill set allows. I have a lot of good local revo friends, too. It's kind of a tight community.

I will look forward to seeing you then. I'll PM you when I figure out the cost. It will be affordable. I live about 5 miles from Mill Creek Rifle Club. I assume that's where the match will be.

I would be honored. I went through junior high and high school in Rose Hill. You've probably never heard of that grease spot in the road, though.

If you're in the KC area, I can get you set up with an inexpensive and easy way to do that. All you need is a .358 reamer and custom made bushing. The .358 size will work fine. Don't bother with Pacific Tool & Gage. They are a nightmare to deal with, and you may never get what you ordered.

A little belated- Thanks for the kind words, Mike. That's a very high compliment in my book, considering the source.

It should be a great choice for SC.

Personally, I'm just experimenting all the time. I just made a 357 Sig (essentially a 40 S&W necked down to 9mm), 686 with .40 S&W moonclips just to see if it would work and if it was faster to reload when putting a 9mm bullet into a 10mm chamber. I'm only loading to about 135 PF, as full power loads might be too much for an L frame cylinder. It works fine, but the moonclips I have are so loose on the brass that all the bullets don't line up right sometimes. If I can come up with better moons, it will probably work fine.