flatsman Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm new to loading how tight is to tight for crimping and what could happen with rounds crimped to tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatsman Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm loading for 9 major any help would be great thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandw1dth Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 What kind of round are you using? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Did you search "crimp"? This gets talked about probably twice a week or more. Just remove the flare is all you want. Nice straight mouth edge. Not enough and you'll get a death jam. Too much and accuracy issues usually crop up or even tumbling bullets or even leading issues if you try cheap plated bullets at major velocities Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 If you're new to reloading, I'd suggest that, before you load any 9mm major loads, you spend a half hour reading thru the old postings - "Forums" - Reloading - 9mm. Lots of other considerations, as well. Powder - my suggestion to start is WAC or HS6 Bullets - 124 gr JHP's OAL - 1.15, but do The Plunk Test first As Sarge mentioned, crimp can ruin your day ... I would NOT try to reload 9mm MAJOR at first - try some PF 140 or so, and get them going real well - feeding well and accuracy. Then, work up slowly to PF 165+, with a Chrono (Yes, you NEED a Chrono to load 9mm MAJOR). Welcome to the joys of reloading ... What reloader are you using? What gun are you shooting 9mm Major? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Measure the diameter of the bullet, then measure the case wall thickness at the mouth. Your crimp should be the diameter of the bullet plus the case wall thickness x 2....so, if the bullet is .355, and the case wall thickness is .011, your crimp should be around .377...these figures are not meant to be an exact, just an example of how to measure crimp, case wall thicknesses vary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatsman Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Thanks guys I do have a crono I'm doing some rounds at bottom of load and working up using autocomp and hs-6 124 coated just didn't want to push it to much on crimp pulled a couple rounds apart and had indent of case real noticeable thought it seemed to tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Just remember, it's not the crimp that is actually holding the bullet in the case, but the neck tension of the case on the bullet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Didn't want to push it too much on crimp. Pulled a couple rounds apart and had indent of case real noticeable. Thought it seemed too tight Okay to have a little "indent" on the bullet, as long as it doesn't adversely affect accuracy. Try backing off a little on the crimp, and see if the rounds still chamber . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) Just remember, it's not the crimp that is actually holding the bullet in the case, but the neck tension of the case on the bullet... This! Think of it more of "you flare the case mouth so it's tapered to guide a bullet easily as it's pressed into place. Then you de-flare and return the case to a straight wall." ...than "I'm crimping my bullet into this piece of brass and I don't want it to fall out." Crimp enough that 100% of your rounds chamber-check or case gauge, and the wall of the case is straight on your completed ammo. Then don't ever worry about your crimp die again. Edited July 26, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bret Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 .378 to .379 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SV650Squid Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Just remember, it's not the crimp that is actually holding the bullet in the case, but the neck tension of the case on the bullet... This! Think of it more of "you flare the case mouth so it's tapered to guide a bullet easily as it's pressed into place. Then you de-flare and return the case to a straight wall." ...than "I'm crimping my bullet into this piece of brass and I don't want it to fall out." Crimp enough that 100% of your rounds chamber-check or case gauge, and the wall of the case is straight on your completed ammo. Then don't ever worry about your crimp die again. This is my thinking as well. When doing press setup for straight walled pistol cases, I adjust my taper crimp die with a dummy cartridge until it drops into a gage. Then, I measure case mouth diameter as a secondary check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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