Dies for 38super

[Loudgp]

Hey everyone. What dies are good to use for 38super. Running a infinity open gun and even after case rolling (casepro) I still get cases that won't barrel drop and get hung up locking the gun tight I am using Dillon dies currently
 
 
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[Bamboo]

A lee or EGW U-die sizing die will probably help.

[Garmil]

Lee u die for me

[noylj]

Lee and Hornady size the lowest.

Hornady and Redding size the easiest.

Hornady has the floating cylinder to help keep bullet aligned during seating.

Lee taper crimp die is as good as any and doesn't cost much.

The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:

Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.

Remove and inspect the round:

1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long

2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp

3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case

4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit

5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

[Loudgp]

Lee and Hornady size the lowest.
Hornady and Redding size the easiest.
Hornady has the floating cylinder to help keep bullet aligned during seating.
Lee taper crimp die is as good as any and doesn't cost much.

The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:
Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

It's at the base above extractor groove. I have a casepro to roll them. But some still act up. I ordered the hornady dies and will see how they perform worse case I'm out 45.00


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[bret]

I use a EGW Lee U Die
Redding Competition Seater Die
Redding Competition Taper Crimp Die

[noylj]

I run 9x19 cases through a Lee 9mm MAK FCD and Bulge Buster kit.

I had one (1) case that stuck one of my P-08 "Lugers" and I needed a gunsmith to get it out.

It had that "raised ridge" just like in the Lee Bulge Buster picture in their ad.

My assumption is that any sizing die, even a U-die, would have taken the slight bulge that must have been there and rolled it down the case to form the raised ridge. Unless the U-die sizes below the shell plate, it couldn't size low enough to iron out the raised ridge.

Since using the 9mm MAK FCD and Bulge Busting, I have not had that problem again.

[Loudgp]

Noylj
Thanks ! Only problem is I have a casepro roller. And was still having issues. Went to the hornady dies. Seems to function better. Less issues so far


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[dvc4you]

Had a similar problem, eliminated it by avoiding any brass other than Starline, especially Armscor...