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3 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

 

I call it the ring of success. Guaranteed ignition.  

20161130_190712.jpg

 

If God had wanted rings on primers he would have told Oliver Winchester to put them there. :D

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TheRingOfImpossiblity. 

 

Until I get a 1050. Then it's on like Donkey Kong.

 

In the meantime, my personal gun took four months to get there but it's able to run 100% on CCI Magnum primers loaded in a Dillon 650 with a 15.5 PD spring and everything polished/fitted perfectly.

 

An honest 6.0/2.9 lb trigger and the ability to eat factory ammo all day long is all I was ever after.

 

If trigger feel is less important to you than a gun that lights CCIs, installing an EGD Medium spring will cause your gun to hit so much harder than you can hear it in hammer-strike when dryfired. The trigger will stack at the back of the pull and be 3/4 pound heavier than a PD 15.5 but still quite shootable. That spring makes it pretty easy to set up a gun to run Tula and CCI primers 100%.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Thanks MemphisMechanic,

I was under the impression the EGD Medium was actually lighter than the PD 15.5# - so this is good to know! I also am after match reliability more so than "Race gun-like trigger pull"

One thing I have noticed, after making the aforementioned BOLO mod, my DA trigger feels MUCH lighter and smoother than before the modification. I had some pretty significant rubbing going on (see below) so I'm wondering what kind of trigger pull that mod + an EGD medium spring would result in...This shit never ends i swear :blink:

 

BOLO.jpg

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...The saga continues...

Range Report #2: 60 Rds Total, all fired in DA

  • 1st string= 0/10 LS
  • 2nd string= 0/10 LS
  • 3rd string= 0/10 LS
  • 4th string= 0/10 LS
  • 5th string= 2/10 LS
  • 6th string= 1/10 LS

NOTE: This test was after performing the BOLO modification where i removed approx .0115 off of the originally measured .4640 BOLO, as well as shimming my 650 press to seat the primers deeper. This test was done with roughly 85% CCI primers/15% Winchester primers. not sure if its worth noting, but i didn't case gauge any of these rounds. All LS rounds lit off on the second attempt in DA after inspection. All LS were CCI primers.

 

Now I'm left wondering; Do i push it further on the BOLO modification (PD recommended a window of removal being .010 - .020) and/or give the EGD Medium hammer spring a try...Way i figure it is even if i tank the BOLO and have to buy a new one + the EGD springs, that's still a hell of a lot cheaper than a 1050...

 

-Chase

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22 minutes ago, chaserracer said:

...The saga continues...

Range Report #2: 60 Rds Total, all fired in DA

  • 1st string= 0/10 LS
  • 2nd string= 0/10 LS
  • 3rd string= 0/10 LS
  • 4th string= 0/10 LS
  • 5th string= 2/10 LS
  • 6th string= 1/10 LS

NOTE: This test was after performing the BOLO modification where i removed approx .0115 off of the originally measured .4640 BOLO, as well as shimming my 650 press to seat the primers deeper. This test was done with roughly 85% CCI primers/15% Winchester primers. not sure if its worth noting, but i didn't case gauge any of these rounds. All LS rounds lit off on the second attempt in DA after inspection. All LS were CCI primers.

 

Now I'm left wondering; Do i push it further on the BOLO modification (PD recommended a window of removal being .010 - .020) and/or give the EGD Medium hammer spring a try...Way i figure it is even if i tank the BOLO and have to buy a new one + the EGD springs, that's still a hell of a lot cheaper than a 1050...

 

-Chase

 

Probably not when you consider the cost of Psychiatric help.

You: "I can't sleep at night, Doc. I just lay there thinking about lite strikes."

The Doctor: "Why are you afraid of being struck by lightening?"

You: No, dammit! My primer strikes are too lite."

The Doctor: "So buy a ten-fiddy already."

:lol:

  

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Most guns need a better polish. The rough areas will be easier to see after running heavy springs.  maybe run the EG medium or wolff 17 or 18 for 1000 rounds, then detail polish.

 

Pins, holes and pivot points.

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Winchester primers are pretty easy to find also. I save federal for level 2 and above and run Winchester for local matches anyway. But that is just insurance. If you find winchesters to run 100% then why worry about trying to make CCI work?


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10 minutes ago, kujo929 said:

Winchester primers are pretty easy to find also. I save federal for level 2 and above and run Winchester for local matches anyway. But that is just insurance. If you find winchesters to run 100% then why worry about trying to make CCI work?


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They work okay in my gun, but they don't go through my RF100 very well. I tend to get quite a few upside down, and sideways.

They don't (probably for the same reasons) do well in my 1050 either. 

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15 hours ago, johnbu said:

Most guns need a better polish. The rough areas will be easier to see after running heavy springs.  maybe run the EG medium or wolff 17 or 18 for 1000 rounds, then detail polish.

 

Pins, holes and pivot points.

Than you johnbu,

i am seriously considering the EG Medium (and a re-polish never hurt anyone ;))  I have 150+ rds loaded up with Winchester primers that Im going to practice with today. The result of today's session will determine what the next step will be for me.

 

-Chase

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14 hours ago, kujo929 said:

Winchester primers are pretty easy to find also. I save federal for level 2 and above and run Winchester for local matches anyway. But that is just insurance. If you find winchesters to run 100% then why worry about trying to make CCI work?


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@kujo929 i guess its more of i don't want to have to rely on any "one thing" to run my guns. But im starting to come to terms with the fact that this may just be the case and price to pay for all the other benefits shooting a Tanfo provides me. Hard as they are sometimes - I love these damn guns!

 

-Chase

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I agree on the choice of primer to a certain point...  if Winchesters are available and you can get them to work reliably, no need to bother with CCI.  (That is unless you bought 50k CCI as an election hedge bet?)  However if I had a 15.5lb hammer spring I would certainly demand that the Tanfo ignite everything, on principle of the matter, even memphismechanic's ammo.

With a 14lb or a 13lb I would compromise and settle for it not lighting up CCI, but be 100% on Winchester.

If I can get it to run anything with a 12lb spring like johnbu I'd about get down on my hands and knees.

 

I really feel for you chaserracer.  I am in the same place as you right now, but with a 14lb hammer spring.  Still about 10% fail.  Which is annoyign considering how hard it is to get a Tanfo in Kalifornia.  Please keep posting on your progress.  I have a love hate relationship with my Stock 2, but hopefully we can both get it running to our satisfaction.  I put mine down for a while but will eventually pick it up again, maybe during a long weekend.

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Just now, kujo929 said:

 


Perfect. Thanks


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Just to be clear - I take my mixed brass and case sort it. Then run my press at different primer seating setting for .008-.010" depth. I routinely get laughed at for case sorting my brass, and adjusting for each brand... But I'm 100% w a 10# and Wins. 

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10lb??! yagottabekiddinme-gimmeafrigginbreak wow! :o:bow:

 

I sort my brass too.. but that is to remove questionable & crappy crimped primer pocket brass and to remove 380 and 38 super that gets mixed in.  I thought I was OCD.  You are at a another level sir.

Edited by Sniperboy
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2 minutes ago, Sniperboy said:

10lb??! yagottabekiddinme-gimmeafrigginbreak wow! :o:bow:

 

I sort my brass too.. but that is to remove questionable & crappy crimped primer pocket brass and to remove 380 and 38 super that gets mixed in.  I thought I was OCD.  You are at a another level sir.

 

Primer pockets are different depths. So if you set your press to .008 in FC, it may run .003 with Win (just as a hypothetical), or something crazy with a Russian case. So now you have severe variation in primer depth. If you case sort by brand, then adjust your press to where each and every primer is .008-.010 deep, you'll never, ever have a light strike sue to ammo. 

 

It never fails, someone sees my ammo and says - man you crushed the primer, those won't light. Yet I've not had a light strike in over 30K rounds since I started doing this.

 

Is it a bit ridiculous to case sort by brand, adjust primer ram everytime a new case brand is fed into the press - yes... But it's fail proof. 

 

So many problems could be eliminated if people sorted their brass, and made sure their primers are DEEP.

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**Update**

Just got back from a practice session, ran roughly 175 rounds through a couple different drills.

All ammo was loaded with Winchester Primers and every single round lit off without a problem. No light strikes in DA, and no hammer falls after the DA.

I calipered the primer depth on about 25% of these loads and through various mixed brass casings i was showing a depth variance of .004-.007 on finished rounds.

I also case gauged every single round and even the rounds that didn't pass, chambered and fired (thanks to Joe and Tony @PD on the advice of getting the barrels reamed ;))

I'm not 100% sure this is the end of my struggles but its a step in the right direction and gives me some needed confidence before my next match. Ill update any new findings, etc and chime in where/if i can.

Thanks to everyone for your feedback and advice on this, it is much appreciated.

 

-Chase

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You were already over 75% reliability with CCI.

 

If switching to Winchester primers didn't fix it, pretty much everyone in this thread who has helped you would have been shocked.

 

CCI primers are more than "just a little" harder than Winchester.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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5 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

You were already over 75% reliability with CCI.

 

If switching to Winchester primers didn't fix it, pretty much everyone in this thread who has helped you would have been shocked.

 

CCI primers are more than "just a little" harder than Winchester.

 

 

Indeed.

They (the CCI) weighed a tenth of a grain heavier than the Winchesters. Since the dimensions of the two are the same then the difference is in the cup thickness, and therein lies the problem.  

Way to go chaserracer. 

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On 6/25/2017 at 6:39 PM, ClintMorris said:

Is there anyway to adjust primer depth on a 550? Someone has to have some tricks up their sleeve. Only thing I can think of would be to weld on the primer seating punch itself and grind flush to add .005 or so

 

After all this discussion I tried experimenting with my 550...  Over the long weekend, try this...

1.  Screw down your 550 shellplate as low and tight as possible while still being able to advance the "ninja star".  This will ensure that the shellplate holds your brass down without slop when you prime.

2.  Cut a piece of cardboard, I used the sleeve from a winchester primer tray into the shape and size of the primer seating punch.  Super glue it on the punch/piston.

 

You will find that that the 550 is designed in a way that the loaded primer without the mod is already flush with the primer cup.  With the mod the primer will be sticking up above flush and you will not be able to advance the star unless you are actively loading rounds - ie. you cannot spin the star without activating the handle.  If this does not make sense to you now, fret not, you will find out what I mean soon...  This problem does not impact you when you are actually loading.

 

Ghetto - sure it is, but cheaper than buying 1050.  I did not think welding up the punch would work but I tried the concept and it may work after all.

I am not sure about the longevity of this experiment, but I loaded up 100 rounds.  Without the mod I measured .005-.006" of seating depth.  With the mod I can go down to .008-.010"  If I push up and "prime" the handle twice, while turning the brass 90 degrees I can almost be certain that I can make the .010" or more.

 

As per SoCalShooter69 I do believe that the seating depth is in part determined by the headstamp (tolenrances of primer pocket) of the brass so do not be frustrated if you cannot get .010" depth every time.

Edited by Sniperboy
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7 hours ago, Sniperboy said:

 

After all this discussion I tried experimenting with my 550...  Over the long weekend, try this...

1.  Screw down your 550 shellplate as low and tight as possible while still being able to advance the "ninja star".  This will ensure that the shellplate holds your brass down without slop when you prime.

2.  Cut a piece of cardboard, I used the sleeve from a winchester primer tray into the shape and size of the primer seating punch.  Super glue it on the punch/piston.

 

You will find that that the 550 is designed in a way that the loaded primer without the mod is already flush with the primer cup.  With the mod the primer will be sticking up above flush and you will not be able to advance the star unless you are actively loading rounds - ie. you cannot spin the star without activating the handle.  If this does not make sense to you now, fret not, you will find out what I mean soon...  This problem does not impact you when you are actually loading.

 

Ghetto - sure it is, but cheaper than buying 1050.  I did not think welding up the punch would work but I tried the concept and it may work after all.

I am not sure about the longevity of this experiment, but I loaded up 100 rounds.  Without the mod I measured .005-.006" of seating depth.  With the mod I can go down to .008-.010"  If I push up and "prime" the handle twice, while turning the brass 90 degrees I can almost be certain that I can make the .010" or more.

 

As per SoCalShooter69 I do believe that the seating depth is in part determined by the headstamp (tolenrances of primer pocket) of the brass so do not be frustrated if you cannot get .010" depth every time.

Thanks for the info. I'll at least give this a try and see if I can get it to work well for me. If I get it working well I think I'll get a spare punch and try to extend it or I'll see if a friend of a friend that owns a lathe will make me one cheap. 

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