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Stock II Xtreme Mod List


Tanfastic

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Got my PD spring kit in tonight, not the Bolo yet since I'm waiting on the Titan hammer before installing that.  @MemphisMechanic thanks for the videos, very helpful!  You're right that this gun is very easy to work on, WAY less complex than my HK's.  

 

What about the recoil spring?  Are people swapping that out for a lighter one, or doesn't it cycle properly with a lighter spring with most ammo?

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Lube slide/rails with polishing compound and cycle the bare slide on the bare frame a few hundred times. That'll help lap things in and reduce drag so it can run a lighter spring.

 

Still... Initially I had to run a 10lb if I wanted reliable feeding. Once the gun broke in I was able to run the 8 lb that I use now.

 

That gun has the Xtreme guide rod, yes? If so, I'd buy an 8,9,10lb short slide variety of springs and test them out. Guns without either the EGD or Henning or PD guide rod need one right away.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I think your hammer is too small. 

Before I went to work on my Stock II I stopped by Harbor Freight and bought a 10 pound mall. They were on sale.

No more problems with tight pins.  ^_^

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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Lube slide/rails with polishing compound and cycle the bare slide on the bare frame a few hundred times. That'll help lap things in and reduce drag so touching can run a lighter spring.

 

Still, Initially I ran a 10lb if I wanted reliable feeding. Once the gun broke in I was able to run the 8 lb that I use now.

 

That gun has the Xtreme guide rod, yes? If so, I'd buy an 8,9,10lb short slide variety of springs and test them out. Guns without either the EGD or Henning or PD guide rod need one right away.

 

 

Thanks, yes, it has the Xtreme guide rod with the fluted end on it, you can barely see it at the top of the pic next to the barrel.  I'll get the spring selection to start messing with after things get more broken in and I get some polishing done.  

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Couple questions on the BOLO @PatriotDefense

 

1) is the BOLO install really that easy with the titan hammer?  It took 5 minutes, and given how incredible the SA trigger feels now dry-firing I find that hard to believe so I'm assuming I did something wrong or skipped some important steps.... ??

 

2) the disconnector pin that came with the bolo is a super loose fit, it will literally just fall out of the hammer if I don't hold it in place while I install the hammer, is that normal?

 

3) I looked around for a BOLO install guide but couldn't find one on utoob, is there one somewhere?

Edited by Tanfastic
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10 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

Couple questions on the BOLO @PatriotDefense

 

1) is the BOLO install really that easy with the titan hammer?  It took 5 minutes, and given how incredible the SA trigger feels now dry-firing I find that hard to believe so I'm assuming I did something wrong or skipped some important steps.... ??

 

2) the disconnector pin that came with the bolo is a super loose fit, it will literally just fall out of the hammer if I don't hold it in place while I install the hammer, is that normal?

 

3) I looked around for a BOLO install guide but couldn't find one on utoob, is there one somewhere?

 

1. Yes

 

2. Yes. It's a floating pin.

 

3. No. Very straight forward mod. Enjoy.

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14 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

Couple questions on the BOLO @PatriotDefense

 

1) is the BOLO install really that easy with the titan hammer?  It took 5 minutes, and given how incredible the SA trigger feels now dry-firing I find that hard to believe so I'm assuming I did something wrong or skipped some important steps.... ??

 

2) the disconnector pin that came with the bolo is a super loose fit, it will literally just fall out of the hammer if I don't hold it in place while I install the hammer, is that normal?

 

3) I looked around for a BOLO install guide but couldn't find one on utoob, is there one somewhere?

Sorry, late to the party but it seems these guys have you headed in the right direction....

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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Probably missed it somewhere. The sharp edge on the slide that can drag against the top round in the magazine. You guys round it off, any 'best way' or 'how much', or just do it?

 

Look at @MemphisMechanic 's video tutorial on YouTube, it's in there, just search for "Tanfoglio Tuning".

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Just now, Tanfastic said:

 

Look at @MemphisMechanic 's video tutorial on YouTube, it's in there, just search for "Tanfoglio Tuning".

 

Found the do it part, great video, will keep looking for the 'this is how I do it' , may have seemed to basic to explain. Not rocket surgery, just like to make sure I do this the best I can, really fun so far. 

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7 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

It's only in there as in... you can see how much mine is rounded when I flip the slide over. I don't go into great detail on it.

 

Thanks, went cautious but got mine looking similar but more cowardly. All of the detail you provided on other stuff has gotten me spoiled :) . Will be interesting to see if this fixes a ftf problem I was having on break in day, am thinking it likely will. 

 

Got parts replaced and 1st round of polishing done today so that is a good thing. Forgot to install the lighter sear spring & the hammer definitely needs the bolo tweaked so it goes back farther in d.a. & the safety needs fit, so there is still something to do tomorrow, or later, perhaps better to put some more ammo through it first. 

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Well, I'm in the light strike club now, after installing the titan hammer, bolo (modified), and more polishing, started getting weak strikes with two different ammos (factory T1 competition, and my realoads with CCI primers) which previously both fired 100%.  Really odd thing was it was fine for the first 30 rounds or so, and then started happening, and by the end of 200 rounds (heat related?) it was barely firing at all, I had to pull DA on a few rounds 3 or 4 times before they would fire.  So obviously I screwed something up.  Match tonight, so not taking any chances, I took it apart and put everything back to factory original.  Now my DA pull is 8.2 lb and SA is 3.2, but that will have to do for now.  

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If you want to run those primers and that ammo, the hammer spring choices to promise a reliable gun are the PD 15.5 or the EGD Medium.

 

CCIs only run on a PD spring when seated on a 1050 all the way buried down in there with a 15 pound spring.

 

If you're loading on a 650 like me, you need an absolutely absolutely perfectly setup gun in order to light them off with a 15.5 PD spring.

 

The easiest alternative is to simply run Winchester primers and a 14 pound PD spring. Then you can throw a bolo and a Titan in your gun without doing much extra work beyond a little polishing, load them on any press in the world, and it'll run 100% if you don't have additional mechanical issues like a firing pin block that isn't fit correctly.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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15 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

If you want to run those primers and that ammo, the hammer spring choices to promise a reliable gun are the PD 15.5 or the EGD Medium.

 

CCIs only run on a PD spring when seated on a 1050 all the way buried down in there with a 15 pound spring.

 

If you're loading on a 650 like me, you need an absolutely absolutely perfectly setup gun in order to light them off with a 15.5 PD spring.

 

The easiest alternative is to simply run Winchester primers and a 14 pound PD spring. Then you can throw a bolo and a Titan in your gun without doing much extra work beyond a little polishing, load them on any press in the world, and it'll run 100% if you don't have additional mechanical issues like a firing pin block that isn't fit correctly.

 

That's not it, my T1 competition ammo has Federal primers in it, and that was not firing either.  And I had the 15.5 hammer spring in.  I did notice this morning that the T1 ammo doesn't pass the plunk test in my barrel, but I don't think that could be it.  I'm heading out at lunch today with the gun back in original condition to see if it's back to 100% or not.  If so, then I'll run that for tonight's match and then start making the mods one at a time and test-fire to see where the failures start to occur.  If not, then I must have screwed something else up, I'll have to start checking the FBP/pin issues, etc.

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11 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

1. Federal primers

2. 15.5 hammer spring

3. ammo doesn't pass the plunk test in my barrel

 

Stop. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.

 

1. Verify function of the gun.

 

Check for proper firing pin block operation on the bench. Then return to the range with the block totally removed and test fire it. That's what I do. I actually shot mine in local matches and such for 3 months without the block installed until I was positive I had a 100% gun, then put it back in.

 

2. After looking into that, get the chamber reamed by PD or by Grams.

 

The best way I can put it is: I don't know if the fitting of your parts is an additional problem, but your ammo is 100% for certain a problem. The shoulder of the case should be locked against the forward shoulder of the chamber so that all of your firing pin force is directed into the primer. If the Bullet is catching the rifling then some of your hammer's force is being lost by driving the Bullet into the rifling until the case seats fully before you even begin to dent the primer. On the 3rd or 4th hit you've gotten the round fully chambered, and it goes off.

 

The ammo you're feeding that gun is either causing some of your issues, or all of your issues. I'm not sure which.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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11 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Stop. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.

 

1. Verify function of the gun.

 

Check for proper firing pin block operation on the bench. Then return to the range with the block totally removed and test fire it. That's what I do. I actually shot mine in local matches and such for 3 months without the block installed until I was positive I had a 100% gun, then put it back in.

 

2. After looking into that, get the chamber reamed by PD or by Grams.

 

The best way I can put it is: I don't know if the fitting of your parts is an additional problem, but your ammo is 100% for certain a problem. The shoulder of the case should be locked against the forward shoulder of the chamber so that all of your firing pin force is directed into the primer. If the Bullet is catching the rifling then some of your hammer's force is being lost by driving the Bullet into the rifling until the case seats fully before you even begin to dent the primer. On the 3rd or 4th hit you've gotten the round fully chambered, and it goes off.

 

The ammo you're feeding that gun is either causing some of your issues, or all of your issues. I'm not sure which.

 

 

My reloads with CCI primers are set to an OAL where they spin free, and those weren't firing reliably either.  So I don't know, it's a mystery, but removing the FBP will be an easy way to see if that's part of the problem or not, I'll test that today.

 

Already inquired with Joe about barrel reaming, I'll be sending it in after the 4th, my big problem is our Sectional is this weekend, so I don't have time to send it before then so I need to make sure it works otherwise I'll have to go back to my other gun for the match.  

 

The two rounds shown were light strike/no fire on first DA pull.  The others were rounds that DID fire, the one in the center fired on the 2nd hit in DA.  So when I look at that, I'm thinking that SOMETIMES it light hits, and other times it hits hard, so points to something that's not consistent.  The seating of the round you described could cause that.  A FPB issue could cause that too.  Still have more work to do......

LS2.JPG

LS1.JPG

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The other thing is when I first got it, I went to the range straight out of the box and put a few hundred rounds of the competition ammo through it without a hiccup, so it's gotten LESS reliable as I've messed with it and shot it more.  So that makes me think either something I did during dis/re-assembly messed it up, or it's a wear issue with something that has broken in and a tolerance has changed.

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I'm going to mirror what Memphis said. If you have ammo that doesn't pass the plunk test, don't even shoot it until you get the barrel reamed. It is absolutely pointless to try.

 

As for the freely spinning CCI ammo - they're some of the hardest primers. You need to set those deep to light 100%. So spinning free means nothing if the primers aren't balls deep.

 

So I'm sure that's the two issues, I'd doubt it's the FPB or anything else...

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4 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

The other thing is when I first got it, I went to the range straight out of the box and put a few hundred rounds of the competition ammo through it without a hiccup, so it's gotten LESS reliable as I've messed with it and shot it more.  So that makes me think either something I did during dis/re-assembly messed it up, or it's a wear issue with something that has broken in and a tolerance has changed.

 

Every gun gets less reliable when you start to mod it. You need to test and tune what gets you back to reliability. But I'm 100% sure right now, with your current set up, the ammo is the issue. No doubt.

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