mscott Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 First time I noticed it was a couple of weeks ago. Was blinking noticeably but would come back on. Then would shut down and I have to use the button to turn it back on. Changed the battery and it was good for a match and a couple practice sessions. Now it's doing it again with a new battery. It is the eight MOA and I verified it was the V4 by pulling the battery tray out and putting it back in and the dot came back on. Guessing I will be sending it back this week. Anyone else had an issue with the newer ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
race1911 Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 I found the "fix" on the V3 board was the battery tray needed extra thin layer on bottom of battery tray to give enough pressure on the battery contacts...try a small rubber o-ring on the bottom or whatever and see if it stays on while shooting before sending back for a "fix" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 I had the same problem with a new RTS2v4. The dot would go out. I called C-More to ask if there was anything I could try. I did all the tests they asked, but no luck. I was then to try a new battery. No luck. The they mentioned if the battery voltage goes as low as 2.8V, it can cause that problem. I measured the voltage of the battery that came with the sight. It was 2.7V. The 'new' battery I put in was 2.8V. I pulled a battery out of a test instrument and measured that. 3.3V and the RTS works like a charm. I can turn it down to minimum, put the cover on and check three hours later and the dot is still on. So now I know it is working the way it is supposed to. Hopefully, that's all it will take to fix yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 1 hour ago, zzt said: I had the same problem with a new RTS2v4. The dot would go out. I called C-More to ask if there was anything I could try. I did all the tests they asked, but no luck. I was then to try a new battery. No luck. The they mentioned if the battery voltage goes as low as 2.8V, it can cause that problem. I measured the voltage of the battery that came with the sight. It was 2.7V. The 'new' battery I put in was 2.8V. I pulled a battery out of a test instrument and measured that. 3.3V and the RTS works like a charm. I can turn it down to minimum, put the cover on and check three hours later and the dot is still on. So now I know it is working the way it is supposed to. Hopefully, that's all it will take to fix yours. Do you recommend (or not recommend) a particular battery brand for voltage reliability? My RTS2's have never hiccuped but I also stick to Energizer and Duracell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 The first time it happened a couple weeks ago the battery voltage was 2.80 volts, so I changed the battery. Today the voltage is 3.01 volts. Going to a match tomorrow, so I put a new battery in at 3.25 volts. All I've used are Energizer bought locally. FWIW the battery in my Deltapoint Pro was at 2.75 volts and never gave me a hint of a problem. I changed it anyway, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 jk, I stick with the name brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 I have 3 V4s and have no problems with any of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankge Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 all this about the RTS2 is unsettling. I just bought a new to me STI GM with a newer RTS2 on it. Sight went out just before the Doc Welt match. C-More is making good on it but I cant help but think that their business is going to take a big hit because of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 I own two and have put a fair amount of time on a friends third. Never had a problem with them of any sort. I'm not a huge fan of wafer batteries because they sometimes don't make the best connection which can result in cutting out or needing more voltage to overcome the weaker connection. That sounds like the issue here but with mini red dots this size there aren't really other options for power. In my experience (with wafer batteries) it's usually easily solved with a spacer behind the battery. Again, though, I've never had a problem with my RTS2 or known anyone who has other than in this discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 What is "all this about the RTS2"? It's a shooter (or two) who says they're having a problem. The hundreds (or thousands?) who have no problems with their V4s aren't starting posts - they're truckin' down the road and sending rounds downrange. For me, mine never hiccupped all day at the SNS 400. I sometimes left it on for a couple of stages at a time, other times turned it off, back and forth, never a problem. I leave them on during 2-3 hour practice sessions and daily dryfire, replace the battery when they start getting dim. What's the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FFEMT Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Iam in the process of having my Open gun built and it is at a stage where I need to deiced, if I want to run a RTS2 or a classic C-more. I was at the match when Frank had to turn the sight back on mid stage. Not Fun. It sounds like the RTs2 need a min voltage to operate. Not that I want to be changing the battery every few matches because they can add up fast. I shoot One to two Mini matches a week at wac and out to frostproof when I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 The Classic C-More is just as battery problematic. They vary widely from module to module. I took a poll at a shoot yesterday and about half the shooters said they use the same battery for most of the season for their Sliderides. The other half had to replace sooner. If the voltage drops to 2.7V, get rid of it. Mine lasts three matches with a new battery. Plus, I turn if off between stages. Batteries for the RTS2 are under a buck a piece for EverReady. They last a long time. When in doubt, check the voltage. If they get near 2.8V, change them. It's also super easy to change them during a match if you have to. You don't even have to unholster your pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Can any of you recommend a good, fairly inexpensive, gauge for checking RTS2 batteries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) Any multimeter will do. If you have a harbor freight near you, they are free with a coupon or a few bucks. It tests the same as the Fluke I have. Edited June 12, 2017 by echotango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Ironically for me, more often than not I run LOW batteries in my RTS2 because I daily dryfire practice indoors in my garage, and the dot is too bright even on the lowest setting with a fresh battery. My solution has been to keep and mark my "dead" batteries for use during dryfire. On match day I put in full batteries and leave them on all day-- I'd rather wear out a $1 battery than chance a $450 button getting fatigued from shutting it on and off all the time. Even with the low batteries, I've never had an issue with the dot going wonky, and I've only had it shut off once mid-match, luckily between stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kema Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Just opened and re-soldered all connections on board. I have Nikko Stirling which is basically same as RTS2 but 4MOA. These are also sold as Hawke with 2 MOA dot. Mine was only a month old and under warranty, but cant get replacement(out of stock until eternity) so I tried to get it working and re-soldering did the trick. I have to say that it's a miracle these are working on a open gun more than 1000 rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Yeah. I put 400 rounds under one of my RTS2s on Saturday, then 250 Monday and 150 today. It has around 5k rounds on it. At what point is it supposed to break? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 It isn't supposed to break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theWacoKid Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 RTS2 v4's are very sensitive to battery voltage. Obviously some more so than others. If it is "strobing" that means it senses low voltage and the battery is about done. I've only had it strobe to show low voltage about 25% of the time. Normally it just goes out under recoil and won't run again until it gets a new battery. Other than batteries I haven't had a v4 die yet. I also have a bad habit of leaving a battery in until it dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 1 hour ago, zzt said: It isn't supposed to break. Sorry. Maybe the Nikko Sterling is supposed to break if you don't solder it up. But it's not the RTS2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecil Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Well, where there is smoke... its quiet obvious there a fire somewhere... reading this post and a few previous its obvious C More has a problem... you can't blame anyone that bought a C More and experienced a problem ... sure C More has a warranty and will repair it... for those that invested their money in a scope they cannot use it leaves a bad taste in their mouth.. you really cannot blame .. they lived up to their part of the bargain when they shucked out their hard earned money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kema Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 5 hours ago, teros135 said: Sorry. Maybe the Nikko Sterling is supposed to break if you don't solder it up. But it's not the RTS2. Does anyone have pics of the rts2 board? https://cmore.com/images/RTS2R_1_Main.jpg http://www.armurerie-beaurepaire.com/photo-nikko-stirling-point-rouge-nikko-stirling-pro-t4-intensite-reglable-viseur-diamond,3366,2.jpg http://www.pk-tactical.com/img/p/2/8/7/287-thickbox_default.jpg I hope RTS2 board is different since pricing is a little bit steeper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 The last one is a STS body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC56 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 On 6/10/2017 at 10:24 AM, mscott said: First time I noticed it was a couple of weeks ago. Was blinking noticeably but would come back on. Then would shut down and I have to use the button to turn it back on. Changed the battery and it was good for a match and a couple practice sessions. Now it's doing it again with a new battery. It is the eight MOA and I verified it was the V4 by pulling the battery tray out and putting it back in and the dot came back on. Guessing I will be sending it back this week. Anyone else had an issue with the newer ones? I thought I was the only one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageJoeShooting Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 i sent mine back to cmore to get upgraded to version 5 hopefully they will make the dot a bit brighter in the sun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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