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Punch broken off trying to remove trigger pin.


mikeinctown

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On my 75 SP-01 manual safety model. (non shadow) Well just as the title says, I have broken off a punch as I was knocking out the trigger pin. I got it knocked through about a quarter inch then everything just got stuck, the punch broke, and now I can't get the broken off portion of the punch to pull back out.

 

At this point it feels like the only thing that might work is to drill out the trigger pin, remove the trigger bar and spring assembly, then attempt to knock the broken off punch back out with a separate punch. Anyone know of a different way?

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You have to be careful with that one.  Once the punch goes through the frame it can get cocked off at an angle (BTDT).  After that one I turn the frame so I'm looking into it and that helps me keep the punch tip on the pin.

 

Isn't the trigger pin (original CZ pin) a one way in/one way out pin?  Isn't the head on one side larger, or slightly tapered?

 

Also, if the punch tip broke, is it still in the hole or did it fall out/come loose?

 

If the punch was a smaller diameter than the pin/hole (it should have been - but sometimes the straight part of the punch isn't long enough for the depth of the hole you're using it in and the tapered part will hang up in the hole in the frame (BTDT, too) then it may just be wedged between the sides of the hole and something it's against inside the frame.  You might be able to loosen it with a thin bladed screwdriver and get it to fall out.  Then you could go ahead and use another punch to finish driving out the trigger pin.

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With some brute force I managed to get the punch out. I taped the frame up good and took it out to my shop press. I pushed the pin back into the frame and the piece of the punch that had broken off inside popped free. (was hammering on it good but it was frozen inside) I was then able to take a smaller punch and knock the pin free.

 

Now the damn firing pin block won't pop back into place with the new extended firing pin and reduced power springs. I swear everytime something gets figured out, I have a new problem. It will start to capture the pin but won't pop into place and actually hold the firing pin.

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It's got to be turned exactly the right way to work.

 

I keep telling my oldest son to use his darn phone camera.  Take a picture of things before he starts taking it apart and every little bit while he's taking it apart and then he can refer back to the pics when he's putting it back together (he had a little unnecessary fun last week replacing his brakes on his G37X).

 

I start the block in and push on it slightly while inserting the firing pin.  Once you've got the block turned correctly and pushed into the slide correctly the firing pin will insert all of the way.  Then you can put the firing pin retaining pin back in - pay attention to the way it should be oriented, too.  Did you get a new one?  CGW sells a replacement (and easy to install/remove trigger pin and a stronger version of the firing pin retaining pin.  I put those in my CZ's if I feel the need to work on the parts to make them smoother (some don't seem to need it and some do).

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3 hours ago, M1A4ME said:

It's got to be turned exactly the right way to work.

 

I keep telling my oldest son to use his darn phone camera.  Take a picture of things before he starts taking it apart and every little bit while he's taking it apart and then he can refer back to the pics when he's putting it back together (he had a little unnecessary fun last week replacing his brakes on his G37X).

 

I start the block in and push on it slightly while inserting the firing pin.  Once you've got the block turned correctly and pushed into the slide correctly the firing pin will insert all of the way.  Then you can put the firing pin retaining pin back in - pay attention to the way it should be oriented, too.  Did you get a new one?  CGW sells a replacement (and easy to install/remove trigger pin and a stronger version of the firing pin retaining pin.  I put those in my CZ's if I feel the need to work on the parts to make them smoother (some don't seem to need it and some do).

 

Yes, I got a new pin with the kit I got from CGW. I picked up the production package. Oddly enough, the pins for the hammer were cake compared to some of these other pins. I've been working on polishing the trigger bar today and have polished the hammer strut and the sides of the hammer along with the one surface of the sear and I gave the new stainless guide rod a high polish as well. I'm not touching any of the new CGW cut stuff except the sides of the hammer.

 

I believe I managed to get the slide back together correctly. I kept thinking that the block was supposed to be level with the machined part of the slide that rides the hammer but in reality it sits about a 1/16 or 1/8" lower. My other CZ is a shadow, so I couldn't look at it for inspiration.

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20 hours ago, GringoBandito said:

This may help. 

 

 

 

I had already been referring to that multiple times as well as the many videos available. What the tutorials don;t show is broken stuff and the swearing.

 

Anyway, I got everything back together and the trigger feels great in DA. However in SA it's just not right. For example if I pull the trigger and hold it back and rack the slide, the hammer resets. I slowly let the trigger forward and I can feel the click of the reset. If I pull the trigger back at this point everything works perfect. However if I go forward a couple mm from where I can feel the click to where I actually hear the click and start to pull the trigger, the hammer/trigger releases into what is best described as the DA mode and it operates the same as it would if I was pulling the trigger with hammer down. So if I let the trigger forward in SA and hear the click, and start to pull back, the hammer releases and I can then actually let the trigger forward and it acts as a decocking lever.

 

I didn't file or sand on anything and all the stuff I did was polishing so I'm sure it's just a matter of fitting one mating surface. Just not sure which one yet.

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