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Why do you need an extended firing pin block?


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EFPB doesn't have anything to do with that iirc, I'd check the recoil spring first.

 

Primary reason for the extended FPB is when you have a non stock fp, the FPB wouldn't function with the hammer back, and you could push the fp in. 

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9 minutes ago, haiedras said:

EFPB doesn't have anything to do with that iirc, I'd check the recoil spring first.

 

Primary reason for the extended FPB is when you have a non stock fp, the FPB wouldn't function with the hammer back, and you could push the fp in. 

Thanks! It's a brand new 10 lb recoil spring. If I rack the slide slowly I can get it to hang up 1/4 inch out of battery 1 out of 10 times.  Even with the hammer back.

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Sounds normal for a well fit gun as they are not designed to cycle slowly by hand.  Properly lube it and see if it hangs up during live fire. 

 

If your convinced the FPB is the issue you could always remove it and see if it solves the problem. 

Edited by NWfront
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42 minutes ago, IronArcher said:

I only needed the XFPB when I upgraded to the BOLO.


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BOLO has nothing to do with the function of the FPB.......... What other parts did you install at that time..

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As @PatriotDefense said, the need for the extended block arises as a result of your hammer & sear combination. Changing either of those may change your firing pin block's travel or timing.

 

(Example: With Titan hammer and 1-piece sear installed into a Stock II or III, you typically need the extended block. It may need to be fitted as well.)

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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2 hours ago, HawkMoney said:

I bought a used stock 2 and it has one. Seems like it's not fitted right because it sometimes catches the slide and the gun doesn't go back in to battery when racking the slide by hand. 

 

How do you know it has an extended firing pin block?  There is really zero reason to put one in with the factory 2 piece sear.  The one piece sear has less motion and thus needs the FPB to be engaged sooner to move out of the way of the firing pin.

 

One the slide stopping.  Strip the frame and slide.  slather polishing compound into the rails and hand cycle the slide at least 100 times pushing down and 100 times pulling up. heck, do it 100 times pushing left and right too. That will remove rough surfaces and allow the slide to move much more freely.  

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The gun has a titan hammer , 1 piece sear, extreme disconnector,pd firing pin and ext firing pin block. I polished everything including the rails. It is extremely smooth 9/10 times but sometimes I can get it to catch just right and the slide won't go all the way forward and I have to push it. When I take the slide off and rib my thumb across the firing pin block it seems like it could be the only thing holding it up. I also polished   The fpb and the hole 

1 hour ago, johnbu said:

 

How do you know it has an extended firing pin block?  There is really zero reason to put one in with the factory 2 piece sear.  The one piece sear has less motion and thus needs the FPB to be engaged sooner to move out of the way of the firing pin.

 

One the slide stopping.  Strip the frame and slide.  slather polishing compound into the rails and hand cycle the slide at least 100 times pushing down and 100 times pulling up. heck, do it 100 times pushing left and right too. That will remove rough surfaces and allow the slide to move much more freely.  

 

Edited by HawkMoney
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2 hours ago, IronArcher said:

No other new parts were added. Still have stock hammer and sear.

 

You are running a stock hammer and 2 piece sear with a bolo?

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1 hour ago, HawkMoney said:

The gun has a titan hammer , 1 piece sear, extreme disconnector,pd firing pin and ext firing pin block.

 

It is extremely smooth 9/10 times but sometimes I can get it to catch just right and the slide won't go all the way forward and I have to push it. 

 

Okay - next time list the precise parts list up front and save everyone some guessing. ;) 

 

Take the firing pin block and spring out and test it. The gun still functions correctly without them installed.

 

Also, if the gun functions perfectly when the slide is released from full rearward travel this probably isn't something worth pursuing. All of our guns might do what yours does, but since there's no reason to perform the test you're doing we would not know.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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30 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Okay - next time list the precise parts list up front and save everyone some guessing. ;) 

 

Take the firing pin block and spring out and test it. The gun still functions correctly without them installed.

 

Also, if the gun functions perfectly when the slide is released from full rearward travel this probably isn't something worth pursuing. All of our guns might do what yours does, but since there's no reason to perform the test you're doing we would not know.

 

Thanks for the help. I'm asking because while I'm shooting, sometimes the slide seems to slow down and struggle to go back into battery. I'm trying to figure out if these 2 things are related. magazines are brand new and ammo is all chamber gauged. Im looking for someone to tell me if my firing pin block is maybe not fitted correctly.

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Is the breech face polished?

Is the extractor hook smooth?

 

Is the ammo length good? Too long of ammo can give that result.

 

Does the barrel go into lock up easily?

 

 

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6 hours ago, johnbu said:

20170526_135747_zpsbwr9j77u.jpg

 

Is this the location of the slide hang up? If so, i suspect a burr on the top of the barrel hood. Or a locking lug between the barrel and slide.

That is exactly it. It seems the barrel is hanging up somewhere. I think it's the slot in the barrel that the slide stop rides in. It has a very sharp edge. I'm gong to polish it and see if it helps.

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Doubt it is that. The very back, top edge of the barrel on mine has a slight burr. From the barrel smacking the breech and i could stop forward motion on the burr by going VERY slow.

 

Look at that location.

 

If you "bugger up" the kidney bean shaped slot you can muck up the lock / unlock. That's "bad". Also anytime you play with the locking features accuracy can be affected. So less is always better than more!

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12 hours ago, johnbu said:

Doubt it is that. The very back, top edge of the barrel on mine has a slight burr. From the barrel smacking the breech and i could stop forward motion on the burr by going VERY slow.

 

Look at that location.

 

If you "bugger up" the kidney bean shaped slot you can muck up the lock / unlock. That's "bad". Also anytime you play with the locking features accuracy can be affected. So less is always better than more!

Good to know thanks! I lathered everything up with polishing compound, put the factory recoil spring in and racked it about a thousand times. Everything seems to be moving a lot smoother now. I also beveled and polished the mag well while I was at it!

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