RaylanGivens Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 I have an STI Trubor Open gun with a very light trigger pull... It's almost identical to my two STI Edge Limited guns, except that occasionally the hammer doesn't drop when the trigger is pulled... It seems to happen most often after racking the slide to load a round... It doesn't happen often... Last night I shot four stages without it happening, but it did happen once on unload and show clear... When the issue shows up... I pull the trigger and it feels like the safety is on... If I release and pull the trigger again, the hammer drops... not good... Not sure what could cause that... Maybe not enough pressure on the left leaf of the sear spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Check that you have some pre-travel and at least .020 over travel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 On 5/10/2017 at 1:50 PM, jcc7x7 said: Check that you have some pre-travel and at least .020 over travel It has .018 pre-travel and .033 over-travel... If I pull the trigger forward (when it stops without the hammer falling) there is a small click... When I pull the trigger back the second time, the hammer falls... Once it starts shooting, it shoots fine... It's an SVI trigger assembly in an STI polymer grip... Sometimes modifying an SVI trigger bow to fit the grip results in a longer distance from the front of the bow back to the flat part that presses against the disconnector... This is the fourth SVI trigger I've installed (2 Edge, 1 SA RO) and the first to exhibit this problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I would say it's interfering with the disconnector moving up freely. That's why you hear a click if you pull trigger forward (frees the disco). Try a little more pressure on the middle leg of the sear spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 6 hours ago, BeerBaron said: I would say it's interfering with the disconnector moving up freely. That's why you hear a click if you pull trigger forward (frees the disco). Try a little more pressure on the middle leg of the sear spring. Yep Polish the leg of it while you're at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 14 hours ago, BeerBaron said: I would say it's interfering with the disconnector moving up freely. That's why you hear a click if you pull trigger forward (frees the disco). Try a little more pressure on the middle leg of the sear spring. I have a EGW Koenig hammer and an EGW hard sear... I wanted to use an EGW disconnector, but the ball end of the disconnector does not fit through the hole in the frame... I ended up using a Cylinder and Slide Ultra Light Low Mass Disconnector... I've used this setup in three other 1911's without any problems. I tried sanding down the ball on the EGW disconnector with fine sandpaper, but it is quite a bit larger than the hole in the frame... Since the stock STI disconnector and the C&S disconnector both fit and work, I decided to use the C&S disconnector instead of modifying the hole in the frame... Don't want to make the hole in the frame larger if I don't have to... I subscribe to the "modify the cheapest part" motto... Increasing the middle leaf of the sear spring is a good idea... Essentially like pulling the trigger forward, except that it's pushing the it from the back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 8 hours ago, jcc7x7 said: Yep Polish the leg of it while you're at it Polish the leg of the sear spring leaf? Sounds like a good idea... I've never done that, but it seems like it might smooth out the sear spring leaf's interaction with the disconnector... Every little bit helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 5 hours ago, RaylanGivens said: I have a EGW Koenig hammer and an EGW hard sear... I wanted to use an EGW disconnector, but the ball end of the disconnector does not fit through the hole in the frame... I ended up using a Cylinder and Slide Ultra Light Low Mass Disconnector... I've used this setup in three other 1911's without any problems. I tried sanding down the ball on the EGW disconnector with fine sandpaper, but it is quite a bit larger than the hole in the frame... Since the stock STI disconnector and the C&S disconnector both fit and work, I decided to use the C&S disconnector instead of modifying the hole in the frame... Don't want to make the hole in the frame larger if I don't have to... I subscribe to the "modify the cheapest part" motto... Increasing the middle leaf of the sear spring is a good idea... Essentially like pulling the trigger forward, except that it's pushing the it from the back... Ball end of disconnector has to be fitted to your gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BallisticianX Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 +1 on fitting the disconnector. Very possible the discinnector protrudes into the slide area a bit to far so when the disconbector is forced down upon firing the top edge of the disconnector pads on the bottom side are pushed to far and catching the bottom edges of the sear legs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Added two ounces to the center leg of the sear spring... also polished the left and center legs where they contact the sear and disconnector... It still fails to drop the hammer when I unload and show clear... It runs fine while shooting a stage, but I'm losing confidence because of the problems at ULSC... I'm going to remove the Cylinder and Slide disconnector and continue fitting the ball of the EGW disconnector... I'm thinking that the EGW disconnector will match up better with the EGW hammer and sear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 23 hours ago, BallisticianX said: +1 on fitting the disconnector. Very possible the discinnector protrudes into the slide area a bit to far so when the disconbector is forced down upon firing the top edge of the disconnector pads on the bottom side are pushed to far and catching the bottom edges of the sear legs. Interesting... I would never have thought of that... Not sure how to tell if that's the problem... Maybe remove the grip safety and cycle the gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 yes, you can remove the thumb safety and grip safety to get an idea of what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 On 5/13/2017 at 1:32 PM, BallisticianX said: +1 on fitting the disconnector. Very possible the discinnector protrudes into the slide area a bit to far so when the disconbector is forced down upon firing the top edge of the disconnector pads on the bottom side are pushed to far and catching the bottom edges of the sear legs. This was the problem... The disconnector was getting pushed below the sear when I racked the gun by hand... Pressing the trigger a few times moved the disconnector up to where it would release the sear... Here's a cell phone picture that shows the gap between the disconnector and the bottom of the sear... Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 16 hours ago, BeerBaron said: yes, you can remove the thumb safety and grip safety to get an idea of what's going on. That's exactly what I did... It was then obvious that the disconnector wasn't high enough to release the sear... Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BallisticianX Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 This was the problem... The disconnector was getting pushed below the sear when I racked the gun by hand... Pressing the trigger a few times moved the disconnector up to where it would release the sear... Here's a cell phone picture that shows the gap between the disconnector and the bottom of the sear... Thanks for the help! No problem. Always nice when you can solve a frustrating issue.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 On 5/12/2017 at 7:55 PM, jcc7x7 said: Ball end of disconnector has to be fitted to your gun When I found out that the Cylinder and Slide disconnector was being pressed down too far... I decided to fit the EGW ball disconnector to my gun... The hammer and sear are EGW, so I decided to keep all the ignition parts the same... I started by twisting the ball end in 400 grit sandpaper, then 600, then 800, then 1500, then 2000 until it fit the frame hole and was smooth all around... Put it back together and it worked fine... Shot a couple of hundred rounds this afternoon and the problem was gone... Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Great It's always a blessing to see your own handy work come to a satisfactory end ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Nicely done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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