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Installed drop in CGW trigger and safeties dont work!


GARD72977

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Real question is does this matter for production?

 

I ordered by phone from CGW. The guy I talked to did not seem knowledgeable. I ordered a bunch of stuff and ask two different times if anything needed to be fitted. Answer was "nope, all drop in parts"

 

Well safites dont work. Got on web sight and it says the disco wil have to be fitted.

 

I really dont care if they work or not as long as its production leagle. Dont care about IDPA

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Real question is does this matter for production?
 
I ordered by phone from CGW. The guy I talked to did not seem knowledgeable. I ordered a bunch of stuff and ask two different times if anything needed to be fitted. Answer was "nope, all drop in parts"
 
Well safites dont work. Got on web sight and it says the disco wil have to be fitted.
 
I really dont care if they work or not as long as its production leagle. Dont care about IDPA


What did you order or put in your gun.

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You might have to fit the T1 disco like I had to. I filed very little and my SA reset. Also sounds like you might have to adjust your sear as well. When I ordered the race hammer I opted for the more expensive kit and not the hammer alone. I had to take out the old sear from the sear cage and replace it with the adjustable one with the set screw. That adjustable sear allows you to manipulate the safety up while hammer is cocked.

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8 hours ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

 

Fit the safety, not the sear. It's easier and theres a lot more room for a margin of error. 

 

20161109_174105_zpshunhma5x.JPG

 

Absolutely!!!  Just like the picture shows.  I had the same issue/did the same thing when I installed a new hammer in my last CZ 75 Compact.

 

The "race" hammer you bought would have a very shallow notch that the back of the sear catches in.  That reduces trigger travel/makes a nice crisp short trigger movement vs. the stock components.  That means the front of the sear doesn't rise up as much when the hammer is cocked and that arm that sticks out from the front left side of the sear won't allow the old safety (or even a new one) to turn back under it to move to the SAFE position.

 

Removing that metal on the safety allows it to clear the front arm on the sear.  I'm very happy with mine.

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