e-mishka Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 I have 2 8lb recoil springs, one is long slide and the other is standard. What do you guys recommend for 9mm stock 2? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Standard. The LS spring will be too stout for minor... if it doesn't coil bind. I run a long slide 6# trimmed to standard length for 9 minor with my cream puff loads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emjei Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Can we say That Long 8# = a 10# standard ?? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) @emjei only if the longer spring doesn't physically collapse into a solid (coil bind) before the slide is done moving. Otherwise your gun is short-stroking. The whole thing from the Wolff employee who said he "just ships a two pound heavier spring for a long-slide gun" seems to no longer apply, if LS and standard springs are showing up as different lengths. They used to be the same length. Kinda. Edited May 6, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 I run a 10 lb standard size. The 9 lb gives me a "Ca-chunk". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Optimize loads. 10 is undoubtedly causing muzzle dip, compared to what a lighter spring would give. Also polish the rails to allow glass smooth slide motion. Strip the gun, slather compound in the rails and rack it a couple hundred times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/6/2017 at 7:40 PM, johnbu said: Optimize loads. 10 is undoubtedly causing muzzle dip, compared to what a lighter spring would give. Also polish the rails to allow glass smooth slide motion. Strip the gun, slather compound in the rails and rack it a couple hundred times. John, I have a new Stock II with 50 rounds through it. The slide to frame fit is tighter than Dick's hat band, and I have considered lapping the slide, but am fearful of introducing excess play as the gun gets more rounds through it. Am I worrying for nothing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, MikieM said: John, I have a new Stock II with 50 rounds through it. The slide to frame fit is tighter than Dick's hat band, and I have considered lapping the slide, but am fearful of introducing excess play as the gun gets more rounds through it. Am I worrying for nothing? You are. First of all, accuracy is primairly a fiction of slide-to-barrel fit and lockup, so you won't be affecting that. Second, John's method simply gives you a slide as smooth as it'll be after you put a thousand rounds through the gun. Polishing compound on that much surface area isn't going to do more than remove the very highest spots. Edited May 11, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 The frame to slide doesn't need to be tight. In fact, tight may hinder full lockup from happening with "correct" recoil spring weights. Film a bill drill from the side, zooming on the gun full frame. The slide closing shouldn't cause the muzzle to dip below the target line. Most people's guns are over sprung to over power friction and they suffer from excessive muzzle dip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prov1x Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I run a 9# regular spring in mine, runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Started running the 9 pound this week. I guess it needed a little more breaking point in. smooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: You are. First of all, accuracy is primairly a fiction of slide-to-barrel fit and lockup, so you won't be affecting that. Second, John's method simply gives you a slide as smooth as it'll be after you put a thousand rounds through the gun. Polishing compound on that much surface area isn't going to do more than remove the very highest spots. 2 hours ago, johnbu said: The frame to slide doesn't need to be tight. In fact, tight may hinder full lockup from happening with "correct" recoil spring weights. Film a bill drill from the side, zooming on the gun full frame. The slide closing shouldn't cause the muzzle to dip below the target line. Most people's guns are over sprung to over power friction and they suffer from excessive muzzle dip. Thanks, guys. One last question. Which compound is best, and what grit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) I used to use Flitz. @johnbu suggested I try blue magic, and it definitely gets you a shinier part more quickly. Pick up a small tub of it from the auto parts store. Edited May 11, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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