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RTS2 elevation adjustment


tannerlc

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Got a question can't seem to find the answer too. On the RTS2 when you lock down the locking screw is the elevation screw still able to be turned easy? the left to right adjustment is tight. just doesnt seem right to me.

Edited by tannerlc
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The C-More folks told me that the locking screw locks the laser plate, but not the adjustment screws themselves.  The elevation screw will turn (some) pretty easily; the windage screw turns (some) in one direction.  These movements don't change the zero, if it's locked properly.

 

Remember to turn the locking screw 1-1/2 turns out before adjusting.  

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I sent an email to them and told them what it was doing they never said anything about it so i shipped it back im guessing now for nothing. Dammit. I have another one but still a waste. They should add that to the directions. thanks for the response.

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35 minutes ago, tannerlc said:

I sent an email to them and told them what it was doing they never said anything about it so i shipped it back im guessing now for nothing. Dammit. I have another one but still a waste. They should add that to the directions. thanks for the response.

You bet.

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33 minutes ago, racer-x said:

Good info. 

 

Does anybody Loctite this 1 lock screw?

Seems like a good place for a dab of 243.

 

No, no, no.  It's the lock screw.  Why would you Loctite it?

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I email cmore back today and said i talked to the guys on here and repeated what teros135 said and she said. Yes it does move when locked down but it will not change the POI. To which i replied that would have been nice to know  before i shipped it back to them. So now they will recieve it tom. and ship it right back to me. 

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Has anyone had it where you can't get the elevation zeroed. The gun is shooting 2 inch high at 12 yds. I keep going up with the screw but it's not changing, I have gone up over 15 clicks. I back off the the lock 2 turns before I trying to adjust the scope. 

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On 5/2/2017 at 10:06 PM, teros135 said:

 

No, no, no.  It's the lock screw.  Why would you Loctite it?

Agreed, never had to loctite the lock screw.  They hold and keep zero.  If not then its time to send it in.  

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11 hours ago, Steelix said:

Has anyone had it where you can't get the elevation zeroed. The gun is shooting 2 inch high at 12 yds. I keep going up with the screw but it's not changing, I have gone up over 15 clicks. I back off the the lock 2 turns before I trying to adjust the scope. 

 

12 yards is a pretty short distance to zero the gun. I can't remember what the clicks are? probably 1MOA or 1/2MOA.

 

lets assume 1MOA that means 1 click only moves POA 1 inch at 100 yards. at 12 yards one click will only move POA 1/8inch. 

 

I like to set the zero at 20 meters but verify it at 25. as I got better the distance I zeroed at got further away. partly because as a noob I would struggle to shoot really repeatable groups at distance. if that's the case either use a rest or get someone who is good at group shooting to help zero the gun. :)

 

and yes, don't locktite the lock screw and don't turn the other screws with the lock screw done up. 

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I have a similar issue this weekend with a RMA sight.  I just got it back as the previous unit would cut out randomly.  I mounted it back on and it was very low at 20 yards.  I backed the screw out but I am not certain I backed it out 1-1/2 turns.  I moved up as I could not see any hits at 20 yards.  At about 10 yards, I was 3" low and had no more elevation.

 

If I ran out of elevation and the lock screw was not all the way out, do I adjust the elevation screw all the way the other way?  Would that potentially give me more elevation?

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8 hours ago, BeerBaron said:

 

12 yards is a pretty short distance to zero the gun. I can't remember what the clicks are? probably 1MOA or 1/2MOA.

 

lets assume 1MOA that means 1 click only moves POA 1 inch at 100 yards. at 12 yards one click will only move POA 1/8inch. 

 

I like to set the zero at 20 meters but verify it at 25. as I got better the distance I zeroed at got further away. partly because as a noob I would struggle to shoot really repeatable groups at distance. if that's the case either use a rest or get someone who is good at group shooting to help zero the gun. :)

 

and yes, don't locktite the lock screw and don't turn the other screws with the lock screw done up. 

 

I know I should site the gun in at 20yds but I'm not that good of a shot at that distance. I was just working on head shots at 12-15 yds and was missing that when I saw I was hitting high. I stopped adjusting it when I moved it 15-16  clicks. I know if I aim at bottom of head shot box I'm in the center so I'm still 2-3 high. I'll move it another 16 clicks that should be 2 inchs and see if that helps. 

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A perfectly zeroed gun does a LOT for your confidence making tough shots.

 

I highly recommend taking a little time to shoot some groups with your gun as supported as you can get it. I use my range bag and a table to get locked in and turn the dot brightness down a lot. At 50 yards, a solid black 5" circle target is really easy for me to perfectly align the dot in also. Really helps in getting decent groups. A little smaller target (2-3") for 20 would be better.

 

Also, Your dot should be 1.1" over the center of the bore (CK mount and RTS2).

If you zero at 20 yards you should also be zeroed around 50 (assuming 1500fps MG-JHP 115's).

 

yds    inches under / over point of aim

0         -1.1"
10       -.5
20       ZERO
30       .2
40       .2
50       ZERO

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9 hours ago, Steelix said:

 

I know I should site the gun in at 20yds but I'm not that good of a shot at that distance. I was just working on head shots at 12-15 yds and was missing that when I saw I was hitting high. I stopped adjusting it when I moved it 15-16  clicks. I know if I aim at bottom of head shot box I'm in the center so I'm still 2-3 high. I'll move it another 16 clicks that should be 2 inchs and see if that helps. 

 

I hear you on that point. Slow fire group shooting is actually something of a skill in itself and not something we tend to practice. Shooting tight repeatable groups off hand at 20 yards+ is tough. I know I couldn't do it for a while. 

 

Youre doing the right thing. Zero at the distance at which you can shoot repeatable groups. If you can setup a decent rest it is worth zeroing or checking zero at 20 yards or more if you can. 

 

But yeah at closer distances it takes quite a few clicks to get a noticeable change. 

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On 5/7/2017 at 5:22 PM, Steelix said:

Has anyone had it where you can't get the elevation zeroed. The gun is shooting 2 inch high at 12 yds. I keep going up with the screw but it's not changing, I have gone up over 15 clicks. I back off the the lock 2 turns before I trying to adjust the scope. 

 

I recently mounted an RTS2 V4 on my primary open gun; it's my 4th, all V4s.  No problem with zeroing or adjustments, and the dot stays on, as designed, on all of them.  Plenty of up and down adjustment; just have to remember that it's a lot more clicks at 15 or 20 yds than we're used to at 100 with rifles. 

 

I also turn the lock screw out 1-1/2 to 2 turns before adjusting.  Don't forget that the elevation screw will turn (freewheel) in both directions even if the lock screw is tightened down, since it locks the diode plate,not the elevation screw, and that can fool you into thinking you're adjusting the elevation when you're not.  The windage screw will turn (in one direction), but it's also not changing anything unless the lock screw is turned out. 

Edited by teros135
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