1eyedfatman Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 I've been working on my Lim Pro to get the hammer strike up and the DA/SA trigger pull down. I'll note changes: - 14# PD hammer spring - Tanfo solid hammer - PD Bolo - Bic plunger spring (changed from this: TANFOGLIO TRIGGER PLUNGER SPRING 18# KIT (2) [H037-18-2]) - PD optimized firing pin and spring - Polished several things including the trigger bar - Long Slide Recoil Spring (8lb) - Tanfoglio Optimized Trigger Return Spring - Reduced Power - Tanfoglio Optimized Sear Spring – Reduced Power Currently DA 6.5#, SA 4#...actually change after solid hammer and Bolo from 6.25# and 2.5#. Here is the confusing part. I'm doing a pencil test across the floor by putting a new pencil in the barrel (eraser side first) and striker it to see how far it goes. - DA - shoots across the floor like 90" - SA (with hammer manually cocked by just pulling back the hammer) - also shoots across the floor a long ways - SA (with hammer cocked from slide rack) - weaker pencil shot like 28" Why would the SA from a racked slide be much less then just a hammer back manual cock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 24 minutes ago, 1eyedfatman said: Why would the SA from a racked slide be much less then just a hammer back manual cock? Is it falling to half cock when you rack the slide? If not it's possible you have some interference between the sear, trigger bar and disco. Did you have to do any fitting of the disco? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 It does not go to half cocked. Looking at how far the hammer is cocked back, it looks the same as for other ways. The bolo required extensive fitting for the underneath curved side only. A lot of dremelling to get the trigger to reset from SA. At first no reset, than partial and then it worked....all for the SA reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 When I did the BOLO on my Lim Pro, it only needed very minor fitting.My SA after reset, and my SA when cocking move the pencil the same.I'm at somewhere around 6 DA and 2 SA.I'm concerned with how much you needed to fit the BOLO.Try the same tests with the stock disconnector.I believe the BOLO lowered my DA a bit.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 This is what my BOLO looked like after a fit and polish job.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 Did you use the stock hammer and sear or Xtreme with your bolo. Mine has stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Take the firing pin safety out and try it that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 ^ What he said.BTW, mine is Stock hammer, and stock 1 piece sear.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Thanks for the responses. Went to an out of town IDPA match and just now getting the test the pencil test in SA with the firing pin safety (one guy called in a firing pin block on youtube) removed. ITs the part that drops out with a spring after the firing pin and its spring is removed. I racked the slide back to SA and pulled the trigger with a pencil in and it shot out strong 6 times in a row. I would be happy with that consistent SA strike. So, now what do I need to do to put the firing pin safety back and get that same strike consistently? I see there is a notch in the safety as well as the firing pin...maybe it wasn't installed correctly before even though it worked and had some strong and week strikes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) Leave the FPB out of the gun and go shoot it for 500 trouble-free rounds (I shot a bunch of local matches like that - no one checks your gun) then reinstall it. If the issue returns you know for certain it's the culprit. The easiest way to fit it is to file down the flat surface that's visible with the slide stripped off the gun. You can also remove material off the top of the square ear that actually blocks the firing pin. In either case, remove material very slowly. You don't want to remove too much, and a couple of thousandths is typically sufficient. Edited April 30, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 I think I'll try polishing/filing the square ear that blocks the firing pin a little. I believe that's the part that moves as the trigger moves and sticks up from the sear housing. I figure if I mess up this area, its easier to replace. Also, although the bottom of the firing pin block is polished some, I'll also polish it more to give it a mirror finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) You want to make sure that when the firing pin block is released (dropped downward) it blocks the pin. But when lifted slightly, that it will clear. There isn't much difference between fitting it correctly and overfitting so that the safety doesn't function, so go slow. I found coating the pin and block in sharpie and dryfiring it, looking for interference, to be very helpful. Edited May 2, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Its still a work in progress. I filed/polished up the square ear a little. I also worked on putting a mirror polish on the firing pin and firing pin block. The result is still inconsistent. Sometimes the pencil shoots out and sometimes its weak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWfront Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) Have you installed a floating trigger pin by chance? I remember recently reading about another member having issues in SA while using one. I experienced some inconsistent hammer drops in SA while using a precise fitting slave pin to test different springs and polish. It felt like contact between the sear and half cock. After reinstalled the roll pin and it went back to functioning perfectly. Edited May 2, 2017 by NWfront Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 It does not look to have a floating trigger ping on it. It has a hole on either side and I had to give it some wacks to get it out and in when messing with the trigger. I think I'm going to try polishing more things like the interactions between trigger and sear as well as the sides of the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Did we establish if the gun works with the firing pin block out or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Polishing won't fix it if the clearance is wrong between firing pin and FPB are wrong. you need to ensure there is enough clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 18 minutes ago, waktasz said: Did we establish if the gun works with the firing pin block out or not? Yes. With the FPB out...I rack the slide which puts the hammer back in SA position, put the pencil down the barrel and on trigger pull, the pencil flies out strongly. With the FPB back in, sometimes the pencil flies out strongly, sometimes weekly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 How much is the overtravel screw in or out? When you have the hammer held to the rear and you pull the trigger, can you push the firing pin in, every time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 30 minutes ago, johnbu said: Polishing won't fix it if the clearance is wrong between firing pin and FPB are wrong. you need to ensure there is enough clearance. I'm focusing my filing on the part that rocks back and forth on the sear (the "square ear") and would make contact with the bottom of the FPB. This would allow the FPB to sit lower and not be pushed up as high. Is this the area you mean about clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 11 minutes ago, waktasz said: How much is the overtravel screw in or out? When you have the hammer held to the rear and you pull the trigger, can you push the firing pin in, every time? No overtravel screw. This is stock trigger with stock solid hammer (SSP legal). With the hammer back (whether I rack the slide or just manually cock it back), I cannot push the firing pin in with my finger off the trigger. After I press the trigger even while holding the hammer back with the finger, I can push in the firing pin. Every time. Interesting test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, 1eyedfatman said: I'm focusing my filing on the part that rocks back and forth on the sear (the "square ear") and would make contact with the bottom of the FPB. This would allow the FPB to sit lower and not be pushed up as high. Is this the area you mean about clearance? Everyone I know of has either filed down the bottom surface on the FPB which contacts the sear, or the "square tab / ear" on the inside of the block which actually contacts the firing pin. I don't know of anyone other than yourself who has tried to fit things by shaping the sear leg instead. I can't say if there is a reason for that or not. The FPB being the cheapest part means that is what I chose to remove material from. Edited May 2, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 20 minutes ago, 1eyedfatman said: I'm focusing my filing on the part that rocks back and forth on the sear (the "square ear") and would make contact with the bottom of the FPB. This would allow the FPB to sit lower and not be pushed up as high. Is this the area you mean about clearance? The only thing you should be touching is the bottom of the firing pin block itself, or maybe the inside of the block where it actually blocks the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 I think I am getting close. I focused additional filing on the bottom of the FPB and also along the sharp edge of the FPB square tab/ear (thinking that sharp corner might be catching)...just a little here. I also buffed and polished it up again. Out of 12 pencil test, 10 were strong and 2 weaker, but the weaker ones were a little improved. I may do one more round of filling and polishing and see if I an call that good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 Put what I thought would be a final filing and polish on the bottom of the FPB and the FPB square tab/ear and it got worse! Anybody know why the strength of a strike would be MUCH strong when just manually cocking back the hammer (without racking the slide) vs racking the slide to cock back the hammer? It looks like either way, the sear moves up to push up the FPB and the hammer is same distance back. Trigger pull weights either way are the same (3.75 lbs.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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