Bell Crank Question

[rowdyb]

Ok, so I pull the handle down and everything does as it should, awesome. As I lift the handle to advance everything on my 1050 I notice that the part of the bell crank the red line is drawn to will sometimes hit the edge where the yellow line is drawn to. There will be just the slightest pause and then the powder bar returns to full closed.

 

• it doesn't happen all the time. it is intermittent.
• the fail safe rod has a lot of spring tension (it's maxed out in how far it can pull the arm down as you see in the pic) and it never fails to close, just sometimes a slight pause on the way to doing so. sometimes with a faint but audible click noise.
• the through bolt holding the bell crank is tight
• the mr bullet feeder dropper does not touch the powder measure anywhere.
• the picture was taken with the press "at rest"
• i have a new bell crank spring but it doesn't match the type i have on my older machine in how it hooks onto the tab at the top. mind hooks around that small tab. the new spring i have looks like it should go in a hole there.

 

so, is this little bit of touching every once in a while normal or something that needs to be addressed?

 

[GregJ]

My new 1050 (set up in December) hits there every time, and has done it since day one.  I had assumed it was normal, but it certainly can be a little disconcerning.  Interested in hearing from others as well. 

[Got2beshooting]

From what I remember, on my 1050 it does not hit. I think it goes all the way back without hitting anything. But I will have to look and make sure. I will check the amount of clearance.


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[dillon]

It is normal and expected for the lock link to momentarily contact the frame of the powder measure. This is intentional. This lock link prevents full retraction of the powder bar until after the shellplate has started to rotate, lessening any chance of a double charge. Do not add any springs to the powder measure. Doing so will result in irregular powder charges.

With the handle up and at rest, you should have a visible gap between the coils on the spring at the bottom of the failsafe rod. See figure 10 on page 7 of the manual.

[Got2beshooting]

Well. I guess I have to make sure mine IS doing that.


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[rowdyb]

4 hours ago, dillon said:

It is normal and expected for the lock link to momentarily contact the frame of the powder measure. This is intentional. This lock link prevents full retraction of the powder bar until after the shellplate has started to rotate, lessening any chance of a double charge. Do not add any springs to the powder measure. Doing so will result in irregular powder charges.

With the handle up and at rest, you should have a visible gap between the coils on the spring at the bottom of the failsafe rod. See figure 10 on page 7 of the manual.

So if mine is doing it intermittently is that something that needs correction? And if so, how?

[GregJ]

4 hours ago, dillon said:

It is normal and expected for the lock link to momentarily contact the frame of the powder measure. This is intentional. This lock link prevents full retraction of the powder bar until after the shellplate has started to rotate, lessening any chance of a double charge. Do not add any springs to the powder measure. Doing so will result in irregular powder charges.

With the handle up and at rest, you should have a visible gap between the coils on the spring at the bottom of the failsafe rod. See figure 10 on page 7 of the manual.

The manual says to tighten the nut on the rod end until slight spring pressure. But Ive seen vids where its recommended that a business card just fits between the spring windings. This means the spring is almost collapsed. Can you clarify?  Tks

Edited April 14, 2017 by GregJ

[Steve RA]

You can always convert it to the old 2 spring model.  Many people like the old style better than the later model ones.

[dillon]

With the spring under a load, you should be able to insert a business card between the coils. This is about .010" thick.

[Brooke]

I believe all these powder hoppers are the same. On both my 550's and 650 I have always seen this interference and wondered about it. Seems lame to me, but I'm glad to know it is expected. I put a small dab of grease on the corner. It smooths out the contact a little bit. Without that it gets a little snappy sometimes. The whole thing seems to work ok, but building in a designed interference with wearable parts seems questionable. Not sure what happens when the corner of the frame wears off. 

 

I find that I have to run the failsafe spring tighter than Dillon suggests to assure proper operation. 

Edited April 18, 2017 by Brooke

[GregJ]

20 hours ago, dillon said:

With the spring under a load, you should be able to insert a business card between the coils. This is about .010" thick.

 

So, I assume under a load mean with the tool head down? Sorry to be anal about this, but it's part of my job. 

[redford1]

 
So, I assume under a load mean with the tool head down? Sorry to be anal about this, but it's part of my job. 

I assumed it meant what the handle all the way forward that puts the most load on the sprint


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[GregJ]

32 minutes ago, redford1 said:

I assumed it meant what the handle all the way forward that puts the most load on the sprint


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Correct, my bad.  Working from memory is a dangerous thing.