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Tanfo tips and tricks


johnbu

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Reading and assisting people here has shown there is a yearning to improve the Tanfo platform, but the specifics of how to do it are not well documented. Our good friend MemphisMechanic has documented a few key areas and made a great video series on polishing and assembly. But there is even more to learn. The following is a bit of that more.

 

Adding a Bolo is reputed to decrease DA hammer swing.  Much like fail to fire being blamed on the gun when it's more often the ammo.  First of all, how far SHOULD the DA hammer swing back and how would you document that?   My answer is with graph paper ! .

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.Put the gun on graph paper. Line up the slide straight, outline the starting position of the hammer on the paper. Standing directly over it looking down, hold the gun still and work the DA. Mark the swing of the back edge of the hammer. Mark it on the paper.  The first two pictures show the marked paper and  gun in place. The third compares the marked DA swing with the SA hammer position. The open part of the titan hammer lines up with the mark.   Test it on occasions, if it changes... you have work to do.

 

What might be the problem? The trigger bar / interruptor interface. The bar or the "wing" could be bad. The next picture is on one of my S2 bars recently pulled. I used to insert a chamber laser and DA fire for a computer program (LASR) to pick up the shot location. My son and I would do 500-1000 da triggering a day...for a year. Plus the kids pistol team used it for 8 weeks. 

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 You can see the top edge is rolled over, angled and thinner. This (in my case) was from use,but over-enthusiastic polishing can do the same thing. The wing on a bolo or factory disconnector can also be rounded, but that's more a fitting error. The next picture is what one in Ethan's new lim pro looked like.20170105_145302_zps9ru9aidl.jpg

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I recommend polish, use, inspect, polish, repeat cycle. Why? It's easy to miss something and there may be "peculiarities" in your gun from the factory. Ethan's gun is in for a repeat and it had a "growl" . A felt rub right at the hammer drop and it was tough to find! The hammer strut when punched out was bent slightly so at the back of the pull, it was binding in the hammer. But it flopped freely when out with loads of freedom AND it was covered by the hammer.  it had to be sanded flat and polished smooth. 20170410_120425_zpsz6kaa5nl.jpg

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If you see swing rub marks on the hammer, the FRAME is probably rough or has a burr. I (gasp!) chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the hammer slot then polish it. Then polish the hammer too, including the center hole.

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How's your trigger action? You can lie to yourself, but not your gun!

If the trigger has rub marks on the weakside, you're pushing it. If it rubs on the strong side, you're pulling it. Either way, polish the marks and smooth the opening in the frame. Also polish the pin hole.  You can see the beginning of a nice rub. Not bad, but a little.

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How's your trigger spring? Remove the sear cage and hammer, then test the pull force. If it starts to change...put in a new spring. If you don't measure and track it, your first indication may be when it breaks!

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Take a picture of your shiny bits.  Then next detail strip compare then to now. Is it wearing? Did I forget to polish it? I forget, but the picture shows it !. And if you look at the edges of the plunger head, notice they are 90 degree angles. I found rounding them and polishing minimizes side loading on the trigger bar slot.

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