Tanfoglio Tuning Videos: DIY Trigger job tutorial

[mfs]

22 hours ago, Balakay said:

Thanks for the videos!!

Perfect timing--I bought a Limited Pro today

Where did yu buy your limits pro

[MemphisMechanic]

1 hour ago, ScottieShootz said:

 

Cheers mate!  I was just curious based off doing your recommendations and what a starting base is.   I definitely understand it's like a recoil spring on an open gun, tuning adjusts which you need so buy the variety pack to tune on. 

 

What primers will you be loading? What reloading press? Will you have the chamber reamed? What parts are you putting into the gun to start?

 

Honestly, I suggest ordering an EGW Medium spring and a PD 15.5 or 14 in most cases if someone isn't decking the gun out with aftermarket parts and wants to run factory primers.

 

If in doubt, put an EGW Medium into the gun. If it won't run, you have ammo or firing pin block problems or something similar. Any Tanfo should run on the EGW M spring.

 

From there, you can work your way down to lighter hammer spring weights.

[MemphisMechanic]

Spring the gun heavy to start. A gun with 1.5 pounds of extra trigger pull and a pinch more muzzle flip are preferable to where I began: a shiny new Tanfo with $300 in parts installed that didn't run at all.

 

EGD M or PD 15.5 hammer spring, and a 10 pound recoil spring along with very short ammo, or a reamed chamber.

 

Then experiment with lighter springs as you get more used to the platform and tune your ammo to match.

[v1911]

22 hours ago, V2plus25 said:

I'd move the conefit guide rod up to the minimum shopping list.

 

With approx 5000 rounds out of my Lim Pro (a mix of factory, major and minor), my frame definitely got fairly good sized burrs on either side where the standard guide rod sits.

It should be pointed out that he's also running a .40. If you're going to be running 9mm, I don't see an immediate need for a conefit guiderod. Just not enough punch to justify the up front cost. Besides, I'm waiting for PDs lightweight.....

[MemphisMechanic]

3 minutes ago, v1911 said:

It should be pointed out that he's also running a .40. If you're going to be running 9mm, I don't see an immediate need for a conefit guiderod. Just not enough punch to justify the up front cost. Besides, I'm waiting for PDs lightweight.....

 

Ahh! I don't know why I assumed it was 9mm. Back to the mindset of Minor PF making it less critical.

[johnbu]

1 hour ago, v1911 said:

It should be pointed out that he's also running a .40. If you're going to be running 9mm, I don't see an immediate need for a conefit guiderod. Just not enough punch to justify the up front cost. Besides, I'm waiting for PDs lightweight.....

 

Your choice, but my experience has been they wear and burr the frame equally fast.  IMHO, a Henning cone fit is mandatory in all competition, high use guns.

 

 

[Balakay]

3 hours ago, mfs said:

Where did yu buy your limits pro

From this Forum!

[MemphisMechanic]

47 minutes ago, johnbu said:

IMHO, a Henning cone fit is mandatory in all competition, high use guns.

 

I agree. But I also won't call someone a fool for waiting 1,000 rounds and a couple months of use before spending the $$$

 

(And the EGD Xtreme rod works just as well as Henning's)

Edited April 3, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[johnbu]

I will relay what i was told about the cone fit. Henning spent time, money and effort to invent the cone fit to fix a frame wear problem.

 

EG copied it without permission.

 

It wasn't patented or protected, so Henning's efforts are not rewarded when you buy the Extreme part.

 

That's the story i was told.  So, i personally prefer to buy from the inventor, not the replicator. Just my way of looking at things.

[V2plus25]

12 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

I agree. But I also won't call someone a fool for waiting 1,000 rounds and a couple months of use before spending the $$$

 

Sure, you could put in the prerequisite that if this is a competition gun (i.e. high round counts expected), then the conefit guide rod is a must.

 

I had the problem show up after about 2000 minor and 2000 major rounds and spent another 500 of each tracking down the cause.

 

Whether it takes 500 or 5000 rounds for the standard guide rod to start burrs on the frame, I think it's a whole lot easier fix to just stick a better GR in there before the problem starts. Henning's got one headed my way and once PD releases theirs I'll try it out as well.

[MemphisMechanic]

I created a playlist so all 4 videos would be easy to find in order:

 

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwzRTye8pZ0VD8Mqa6un1kvPZmqnz2f1U

[quietgunner77]

Outstanding ! Very well done Memphis.

[ScottieShootz]

18 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

What primers will you be loading? What reloading press? Will you have the chamber reamed? What parts are you putting into the gun to start?

 

Honestly, I suggest ordering an EGW Medium spring and a PD 15.5 or 14 in most cases if someone isn't decking the gun out with aftermarket parts and wants to run factory primers.

 

If in doubt, put an EGW Medium into the gun. If it won't run, you have ammo or firing pin block problems or something similar. Any Tanfo should run on the EGW M spring.

 

From there, you can work your way down to lighter hammer spring weights.

 

Thinking CCIs for primers.  Probably on a xl650.  Love a 1050 but it doubles the price. 

 

Was as going to order the list of PD parts/springs.  Send them my barrel for reaming and I'll polish everything myself. 

 

I havent decided if I want a stock 2 or 3.  I like the idea of a bull barrel but hate hard chrome. So I may have to send it for refinishing. 

[MemphisMechanic]

The go with an EGW Medium spring for CCIs on a 650. That's exactly my gun, ammo, and reloading press.  

 

If you load them on a 1050 or another line of reloading equipment that will consistently cram rock hard CCIs into the bottom of the cavity, you can get away with a PD 14 with all the other bells and whistles, from what I hear.

 

But CCI + Dillon 650 = EGW Medium spring

 

...and my Stock 3 is getting Cerakoted shortly. I wanted a unique looking gun and enjoy cerakoting firearms, so I chose the blues gun over the hard chrome.

Edited April 3, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[ScottieShootz]

6 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The go with an EGW Medium spring for CCIs on a 650. That's exactly my gun, ammo, and reloading press.  

 

If you load them on a 1050 or another line of reloading equipment that will consistently cram rock hard CCIs into the bottom of the cavity, you can get away with a PD 14 with all the other bells and whistles, from what I hear.

 

But CCI + Dillon 650 = EGW Medium spring

 

...and my Stock 3 is getting Cerakoted shortly. I wanted a unique looking gun and enjoy cerakoting firearms, so I chose the blues gun over the hard chrome.

 

Awesome, great to know. 

 

Id buy an extreme just for the non hardchrome if I didn't car about a budget. Lol

[SCTaylor]

19 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

But CCI + Dillon 650 = EGW Medium spring

 

 

Disagree, but hey that's the beauty of these fickle Tanfo's! I've been 100% w/ CCI's on a 13lb hammer spring & stock hammer loading on a 650.  So far only 3 light strikes on S&B in 2,000 rounds with the same setup.  But those are all practice rounds, using Federal (out now) or Winchester for match ammo.

[MemphisMechanic]

@SCTaylor does your gun have a bolo in it? Curious what, besides the wonderful variation from gun to gun, might be factored into so much difference in striking force.

 

I recommended the EGD M spring because I know it'll make any gun eat CCIs. I'd rather set someone up with a reliable gun with an extra pound of pull than suggest a combination that could result in a frustrated owner of a non-functioning gun.

[SCTaylor]

2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@SCTaylor does your gun have a bolo in it? Curious what, besides the wonderful variation from gun to gun, might be factored into so much difference in striking force.

 

 

Only non factory parts in the gun are: 1) PDO Firing Pin return Spring 2) 13lb PDO Hammer Spring and 3) 1 piece sear.  No idea why setup is so different, it just works.

[MemphisMechanic]

The bolo disconnector doesn't crank the hammer back as far in DA, from what I've heard. Guns without one have longer SA triggers with pretravel, but hit harder.

Edited April 4, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[michael1one]

Sticky?  Usually when I watch a video, it makes me want to give it a shot.  After seeing all those parts, Im thinking of finding a good  local tanfo gunsmith near San Jose.  Too bad you dont' live closer, I'd let you do it.  Thanks for postiing.

[MemphisMechanic]

2 hours ago, michael1one said:

Sticky?  Usually when I watch a video, it makes me want to give it a shot.  After seeing all those parts, Im thinking of finding a good  local tanfo gunsmith near San Jose.  Too bad you dont' live closer, I'd let you do it.  Thanks for postiing.

 

Interesting. I think of the gun as being pretty simple. But we all have our own standards for projects like this.

 

Edited April 5, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[johnbu]

4 hours ago, michael1one said:

Sticky?  Usually when I watch a video, it makes me want to give it a shot.  After seeing all those parts, Im thinking of finding a good  local tanfo gunsmith near San Jose.  Too bad you dont' live closer, I'd let you do it.  Thanks for postiing.

You might contact  member "ryridesmotox". He is an expert california tanfo polisher, but south of you a ways (i think).

[PatriotDefense]

22 hours ago, SCTaylor said:

 

Disagree, but hey that's the beauty of these fickle Tanfo's! I've been 100% w/ CCI's on a 13lb hammer spring & stock hammer loading on a 650.  So far only 3 light strikes on S&B in 2,000 rounds with the same setup.  But those are all practice rounds, using Federal (out now) or Winchester for match ammo.

 

22 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@SCTaylor does your gun have a bolo in it? Curious what, besides the wonderful variation from gun to gun, might be factored into so much difference in striking force.

 

I recommended the EGD M spring because I know it'll make any gun eat CCIs. I'd rather set someone up with a reliable gun with an extra pound of pull than suggest a combination that could result in a frustrated owner of a non-functioning gun.

I agree with SCTaylor here, Its not magic to get a gun with a 13lb hammer spring to set off CCI's. For sure a gun with a 14lb hammer spring will do the job. I've never had one leave the shop yet with anything more than a 14lb hammer spring that sets off CCI's.......

[DougM]

MemphisMechanic - you were dead right about that trigger spring.  It definitely wants to leave the neighborhood!  It got away from me when I was trying to reinstall the trigger and took me forever to find that SOB - and that was on a painted and cleaned concrete floor.  Had it been a rug, it would have been all over.  Before I do this again, I'm ordering some spare trigger springs.

 

Anyway, I still had a rough time getting that sear cage back in.  Of course, I have a 20 lb hammer spring for handling 10mm and pushing the cage far enough back against the hammer as you suggested is near impossible for me.  If I had three hands, it would have definitely been easier.  I have trouble manipulating the hammer, pushing in the sear cage, and installing the safety all at once.  Got any hints on making this less stressful?

[MemphisMechanic]

2 hours ago, PatriotDefense said:

 

I agree with SCTaylor here, Its not magic to get a gun with a 13lb hammer spring to set off CCI's. For sure a gun with a 14lb hammer spring will do the job. I've never had one leave the shop yet with anything more than a 14lb hammer spring that sets off CCI's.......

 

I'm not sure how to answer that. Assuming fixed variables of CCI and 650, my gun won't set them off more than 60% of the time in DA with a 14lb PD spring. With the firing pin block removed from the gun.

 

And I know there are at least 5 or 6 other guys who are regulars on this forum, who've had to run an EGD M in order to shoot factory ammo with soviet bloc primers in it or CCIs.

Edited April 5, 2017 by MemphisMechanic