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Does anyone actual LIKE shooting 10 mm competitively?


ShootEm

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So, I've been in a bit of a quandary since I found out that I cannot shoot my S&W Performance Center 1911 in Single Stack due to the cuts in the slide.   My other 1911 is a Kimber Stainless Target II in 10 mm which I hardly shoot.   I've been toying with shooting that in SS, down-loading to a PF of 170 to eliminate the excessive recoil of a typical factory 10 mm round.  

 

What gives me pause are the numerous comments I see the forums about how no one shoots 10 mm in competition because the brass is not only more expensive but is hard to retrieve on the range because so few people shoot it.   

 

So my question is:  does anyone actually shoot a 10 mm in competition and enjoy it?  I have this fear of becoming obsessive about collecting my own brass, which isn't always practical between stages.   I've also thought about rechambering in 40 S&W to alleviate this problem, but it sure would be nice to shoot the gun I already have.

 

I appreciate any thoughts on the matter!

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Just for information, shoot a .40S&W in it and see if it works.  Might need to load as long as reasonable to duplicate the 10mm.  If that works you can just shoot .40s for matches and still have a 10mm for whatever you have if for in the first place.

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1 hour ago, Steve RA said:

Just for information, shoot a .40S&W in it and see if it works.  Might need to load as long as reasonable to duplicate the 10mm.  If that works you can just shoot .40s for matches and still have a 10mm for whatever you have if for in the first place.

 

I've heard concerning things about doing this in a 1911, due the difference in headspace between the two cartridges.   Although some Glock 20 owners report no issues.

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Is it potentially more stressful on the extractor? Probably. But there's a good chance it will run fine. It's up to you whether you want to give it a go. 

 

I ran lots of 9mm in a 38 super barrel before I rebarreled it with no issues at all. Not exactly the same, but a similar situation

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Load a few long - about a 1/4" of the bullet in the case - and see how they cycle while racking the slide.  A lot of cartridges don't actually headspace on the case, probably due to the difference in various case lengths.

 

I'd just try a few stock S&W .40s to see how they do.  It's about the same as a 9mm in a .38 Super chamber, which a lot of people do.

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2 hours ago, ShootEm said:

... it sure would be nice to shoot the gun I already have...

Are you going after trophies?

 

Your S&W is legal for Limited-10, or Limited for that matter.  If in .45, you can use the extended 10-round .45 magazines.  Shoot what you want, and while you'll be scored with the Limited guys, you can compare your score on your own to the SS guys.

 

My next major match is Multigun Nationals, so I'm still shooting the same .45 1911 that I shot at Area 1 (in the SS division) but this time I'm practicing with the 10-round magazines because my same pistol is now a Limited-10 configuration for Heavy Metal division.

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3 hours ago, ShootEm said:

Hmmm...Limited-10...I like that idea!

On the plus side, you can put your holster and magazines anywhere on your belt.  I'm a skinny guy and I'm in the middle of my back when reaching for my 4th+ magazine in SS.

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On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 3:55 PM, ShootEm said:

 

the brass is  more expensive but is hard to retrieve on the range   

but it sure would be nice to shoot the gun I already have.

 

 

If you're worried about the brass, it would NOT be nice to shoot the gun you already have ...    :rolleyes:

 

What a lot of .38 super shooters do is buy new brass, shoot it 3-6 times in practice,

and then let it lie during a match (you've amortized the cost of the brass over your

practice sessions).

 

But, lots of .38 shooters rechamber for 9mm or buy a 9mm to solve the "brass problem".

 

Your choice - new gun, new chamber or amortize your brass expense.    :) 

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If you were dead set on shooting your existing gun, it might be worth getting a 40 s&w barrel for it. Theoretically you shouldn't have to change anything else to make the switch from 10mm to 40 sw  work. I know Mr.Postman did this with a Tanfo Hunter (its on his youtube channel) to shoot limited at one point.

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4 minutes ago, KrymSIX said:

If you were dead set on shooting your existing gun, it might be worth getting a 40 s&w barrel for it. Theoretically you shouldn't have to change anything else to make the switch from 10mm to 40 sw  work. I know Mr.Postman did this with a Tanfo Hunter (its on his youtube channel) to shoot limited at one point.

 

+1

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1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

 

If you're worried about the brass, it would NOT be nice to shoot the gun you already have ...    :rolleyes:

 

What a lot of .38 super shooters do is buy new brass, shoot it 3-6 times in practice,

and then let it lie during a match (you've amortized the cost of the brass over your

practice sessions).

 

But, lots of .38 shooters rechamber for 9mm or buy a 9mm to solve the "brass problem".

 

Your choice - new gun, new chamber or amortize your brass expense.    :) 

 

This is where I'm at... 1K of new Starline 10mm is $162 American... If you leave 200 cases at a match it cost you $32.40. If you fired them once already and this is the second time they've been used you've left the equivalent of $16.20 in 'new' brass. If this is the third time they've been fired, that's equal to $8.10 worth of 'new' brass. I'm not worried about $8 worth of brass.

 

Yes, it's a rationalization... But, it's my rationalization, and I'm sticking to it.

 

YMMV

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Simplified version is get a 40bbl and keep a note in your gun bag with sight settings.

I've shot 10s for years and just figured in the cost of brass.

But fitting the 40 bbl made life good since picking brass became a non issue

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I have a Delta  Elite and had a 40 S&W barrel fitted to it and bought 40 S&W mags.works great and shoots fine. When hunting I switch back to 10mm. 2 Guns in one with only the cost of a barrel and mags. A lot cheaper than buying a new pistol and leaving 10mm brass laying as the 40 brass is like 9mm who cares.

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Definitely just have a .40 barrel fitted to the gun, as said, you can probably keep using your 10mm mags, though loading long may keep things cycling more reliably. Post a WTB add here for a .40 1911 barrel, I'm sure you will get responses with good prices.

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28 minutes ago, EngineerEli said:

Definitely just have a .40 barrel fitted to the gun, as said, you can probably keep using your 10mm mags, though loading long may keep things cycling more reliably. Post a WTB add here for a .40 1911 barrel, I'm sure you will get responses with good prices.

 

Ok, I like that idea.   Is a new 1911 barrel specific to a particular brand, or does it matter?   I have a Kimber.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd shoot the 10mm as is, then get a .40 barrel fitted later.  I have a Colt Delta Elite that I'm dying to start playing with in SS.  Going to leave it in 10mm as I get most of my brass back at local matches.  If I didn't get my brass back locally I'd get a .40 barrel fitted.  I've gotten decent deals on 10mm brass here and on Gunbroker.

 

Figure if I shoot it at a major, if I leave some 3-4x fired brass behind no big deal.  Brass ain't shit compared to airfare from Hawaii.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I like shooting 10mm. A Glock 20 in Limited, Colt Delta Elite in Single Stack. I lucked into some good sources for 10mm brass early on. So mostly I've grumbled about the rise in cost of primers and bullets over the last two decades.....brass hasn't been an issue for me. Been shooting 180gr jacketed using Hogdon TiteGroup. Not sure I'm remembering the load correctly off the top of my head and my logbook is with my reloading gear elsewhere so I'm not going to put a number here.

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Trying .40 in your pistol first is excellent advice.

 

Here is my advice if the .40 doesn't work like you want:  Make peace with the fact that you love shooting a pistol that shoots a cartridge that is a little more costly than some others---then go rock that 10mm!!!  Look at matches as great practice for your carry gun, and forget the brass cost (because it really is NOT that high).  Fact is, if you pay $162 per thousand and you walk away from 150 pieces of brass at every match (very unlikely) then after 20 matches you spent a little under $500 on brass.  Walking away from the same amount of brass purchased at 1/2 the price---you spent a little under $250 on lost brass.  Net effect?  Shooting 20 matches with your favorite pistol chambered in God's caliber cost you about $250.   

 

Go have fun and ignore the negative nellie's that complain about *your* brass costs. 

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