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Shadow overtravel


Will2K

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Hi all!

I have question about the over travel screw on a CZ shadow that someone might know the answer to... I came across info that the over travel screw needs to be far enough in so that the hammer completely clears the sear when the trigger is pulled and held all the way back. I did this and the result was quite a bit of over travel on the trigger. If I take away the over travel the trigger feels great, but when I hold the trigger back, and try and rock the hammer back and forth, the hammer gets hung up or scrapes the sear. I understand this can cause damage.

Is it possible to set zero over travel and still have the hammer clear the sear? And how would I do this?

 

Thanks in advance!

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Thanks for the reply! I also had a disconnect/timing issue where on single action the hammer would sometimes get hung up if the trigger was pulled slowly, so I ended up filing the corners of the disconnector and the issue went away. However, I'm afraid I may have taken too much off... can this have affect on the over travel?

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Or did I just make the trigger the way it was supposed to function in the first place? I.E., is it common for shadows to have overtravel unless sear or hammer is filed to clear?

Edited by Will2K
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I think if you shot an actual match with the gun featuring the longer amount of overtravel, and tightened down to pretty much none, you'd find  zero difference in your scores or accuracy or speed. And that you didn't really notice it.

 

Some things only matter on the workbench and in our heads. A lot of trigger obsessions are like that.

 

My Tanfoglio normally features pull weights of 6.75/3.1 because I run a lot of hammer spring and CCI primers. I shot a match with the gun at 5.5/2.5 using Winchester primers a while back. I noticed absolutely no difference in how the gun felt at all.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Heh, I think you are probably right. I'm pretty new to handguns and playing around with the trigger and practicing by dry firing. I just noticed it felt really nice to have that solid stop and the sights seemed to move less on target... this is also my first shadow so I was wondering is this what to expect from a stock trigger, but I guess it is.

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14 hours ago, kneelingatlas said:

Shorten the hammer hooks and/or grind the underside of the sear.

I think filing sear would be easier and cheaper to replace if I screw it up? Any tips to performing either/both of these modifications? I also see the race hammer  has a lot smaller hooks. I wonder if simply replacing the hammer would take care of it? Or can I file or sand the hammer hooks to look similar without destroying reliability?

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The Comp hammer also just comes with "less" hammer hooks. The shelf is smaller to the naked eye.

 

Play with the stock hammer. The worse that could happen is your gun goes "brrrraaaaaaaaaaappppppppp" until empty.

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