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C-more problems?


Corey

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Got my PCC out last night to make sure it still functions in preparation for the season. Was doing a little shooting and at one point, my C-more would lose the dot for one shot, then the next shot it would come back on stay on for 6-7 shots then go out again. Is this a warning of a battery issue or a potential problem with the module or sight itself? Still has the original battery in it from when I bought it in the fall.

 

 

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Not sure if your talking about a RTS2 or the older slide ride type.

But either one uses a 3 volt dc battery.

Most new 3 vdc batteries will read 3.1 or 3.2 vdc with a digital voltmeter.

I would change the battery before it gets to 2.5 vdc.

Battery can cause the issue your having on a RTS2.

Usually on the older C-more the dot just gets dim as the

battery gets low or if the brightness knob starts going bad it could

go off and on.

Battery's are pretty cheap so keep plenty and change often.

Or buy a voltmeter and check your battery.

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Update: It was a battery issue. I couldn't find any of the regular 3V batteries around here. I was able to find some 1.5V hearing aid batteries though. Stacked 2 of those up and put them, sight worked like new again. And with the sale going on at Walgreens on the little batteries, its actually even cheaper. Next time I order from SC or somewhere I may get a few of the regular C-more batteries too. Just something I need to have a few extras of at all times now. This is my first foray with an optic in USPSA (you'd think I'd know better from my 3-gun experience tho, haha). 

 

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Back in the day, when I ran C-mores (haha.  Just got new DPP sight two weeks ago)  I used 357 Batteries.  2 stacked was 3.1-3.2v  (about 2.8v with the sight ON full)  

I checked voltage after every match.  With the sight ON, I would change them when they hit 1.5v.  I believe they'll last all the way down to 1v, but you never know for sure.  

 

I purchased them from cheapbatteries.com

 

 

 

 

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On ‎3‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 0:39 AM, BeerBaron said:

The best ones are the 1.55v (a76 I think?) stacked together. They give a noticeable boost in brightness. 

 

Been thinking of trying the stacked batteries route over the 1/3N.

 

Can anyone confirm whether the A76 is the way to go vs the 357? 

 

According to a note I found in the internet:

 

"If your application is a toy, watch, calculator, scales or other non-precision electronic device, order this A76 alkaline battery instead of a 357, 303, SR44, LR44 or AG13."

 

 

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I had it backwards. the 357/303 is the one you want (it's the 1.55v silver oxide battery). the A76/LR44 is the cheaper 1.5v version. 

 

Two of the 1.55v stacked together give a nice boost over a regular 3v (that quite often don't measure a true 3v even new out of the packet). 

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