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My Shadow 2 modifications


rowdyb

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On 4/11/2017 at 9:58 PM, SlvrDragon50 said:

Interesting. I thought filing the sear only had an effect regarding the safety function If it affects the break then I'm a lot more inclined to just get the adjustable sear.

 

Dug into it a bit, will not mention who I spoke with in case I state something incorrectly, but you can probably make a good guess.

 

Stock sear comes to a sharper point than the cgw sear, this allows it to effectively make contact deeper in the hammer hooks and require more travel to clear. Rounding / blunting the contact surface works similar to cutting the secondary angle on a 1911 sear.

 

A better break can be had with a somewhat rough surface on the sear than with a polished surface.

 

You can fiddle with the oem sear, but a little goes a long way and too much is easy to get to.

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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3 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Dug into it a bit, will not mention who I spoke with in case I state something incorrectly, but you can probably make a good guess.

 

Stock sear comes to a sharper point than the cgw sear, this allows it to effectively make contact deeper in the hammer hooks and require more travel to clear. Rounding / blunting the contact surface works similar to cutting the secondary angle on a 1911 sear.

 

A better break can be had with a somewhat rough surface on the sear than with a polished surface.

 

You can fiddle with the oem sear, but a little goes a long way and too much is easy to get to.

Ahh, I see. I ended up polishing my sear, and it's a very smooth break now. I have yet to live fire it so I don't know if I will like it or not, but I don't think it's enough to make me cough up 40 bucks for one.

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1 minute ago, eerw said:

 

interesting. we looked at reaming barrel of S2, it was coated and hard. reamer didnt win.

I hand it to CJ with my dummy ammo that won't plunk. I get it back and it does. I too have been curiously looking at this and what others are reporting.

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Just now, rowdyb said:

I hand it to CJ with my dummy ammo that won't plunk. I get it back and it does. I too have been curiously looking at this and what others are reporting.

 

 

ahhhh. all you had to say was CJ!

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Has anyone tried both the disconnectors at cz custom and find one better than the other? Or have a preference on a disco that doesn't require fitting?

Edited by Polymer
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1 hour ago, Polymer said:

Has anyone tried both the disconnectors at cz custom and find one better than the other? Or have a preference on a disco that doesn't require fitting?

"both the disconnectors at cz custom" ??

 

Have tried the pre B short reset drop in from CZC and the drop in from CGW. Both of them work as advertised.  

Best I can tell the CGW seems to cut down the pre-travel just a smidge more with the downside being that it may require fitting on a higher percentage of the guns, based on one of my guns where I tried the CGW & it wouldn't function and then replaced it with a CZC that did (and the website saying that about 10% of the guns may require slight fitting). 

 

For an S2 I went with the CGW drop in and no issues. I guess that one is probably my preference, but again, they both work as advertised. 

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3 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

"both the disconnectors at cz custom" ??

 

I guess when I say both disconnectors I'm referring to their pre b short reset drop in vs their pre b short reset firing pin block model. I was told by czc the firing pin block model is drop in on the S2 and doesn't require fitting. I was somewhat confused since the S2 has no firing pin block.

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6 hours ago, Polymer said:

I guess when I say both disconnectors I'm referring to their pre b short reset drop in vs their pre b short reset firing pin block model. I was told by czc the firing pin block model is drop in on the S2 and doesn't require fitting. I was somewhat confused since the S2 has no firing pin block.

 

"Obviously, when the factory added the firing pin blocks to pistols the old Disconnector did not allow enough movement forward for the firing pin blocks to reset.

These may not give the same ultra short reset that one of CZ Customs manufactured and fitted Short reset disconnector will give but be very close and should fit without the need for modification (read below)" 

 

Kudos to CZC for giving a nice explanation on their website. I love it when people do that.

 

My CZ 75 compact has the fpb disco, & I've got a couple non fpb CZ 75's with the non fpb disco and the CGW "drop in" on my S2. Pre-travel is about double on the compact but it is not reliable to draw a line from one data point, so that is just a for what it is worth. I do not find the compact trigger to be objectionable but do prefer the shorter pre-travel on the other guns, it is something of a matter of personal preference/what you are fussy about. 

 

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I just spent part of the morning polishing all the important internal parts on my S2.  I also changed out the OEM disco and hammer with ones from Seboweapons (1mm disco and Sport Hammer).  Now I've got a very smooth DA at 5.25 lbs (8.5lb hammer spring) and clicky SA at 2.75 lbs.  The reset is now significantly shorter, too.  Haven't live fired it yet, but it feels great in dry fire.  

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On 4/15/2017 at 3:49 PM, Superpipe9 said:

I didn't say anything about the trigger. The stock 2 is flat out just easier to track which results in faster shooting with better accuracy 

I'm looking forward to Angus new bull barrel Shadow that's when I might sell my Shadow 2 or not it can always be back up

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On 4/15/2017 at 5:49 PM, Superpipe9 said:

I didn't say anything about the trigger. The stock 2 is flat out just easier to track which results in faster shooting with better accuracy 

 

Been wondering what makes a gun easier to track? Sights / weight / Grip ??

 

Have been nitpicking on mine since I got it. Finally got a good bit of range time with it last week and some adaptation to how I was gripping the gun and then took it to a match Sunday. Seems like there are some problems I never discover without a bit of adrenaline.

Was surprised that I really liked it. Compared to a standard 75 frame it seems easier to get a correct grip (I do not scoop grip) on the draw, reloads were automatic, front sight seemed to stabilize faster on transitions and on follow ups, and from what I have read I appear to be the only person on Enos who is really happy with the stock sights. The relief on the sides of the rear sight never bothered me, am not sure that it helped me but it seems like having less of the target blocked might be a good thing for initial acquisition. Last thing I liked was it seems easier to make the double action first shot accurately, perhaps due to weight or difference in grip geometry/reach or an active imagination.  

 

Only new negative I found was that I need to remember to put a torx wrench for the grip screws in my range bag. 

 

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oh yeah i switched those screws out instantly, forgot to mention that.

 

i too find myself shooting faster splits on target with the gun. still working on getting a heavier gun up as quickly on the draw.

 

i'm still not shooting it very well at anything over 20 yards. which i bet is 80% me and 20% my ammo.

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1 hour ago, rowdyb said:

 

i'm still not shooting it very well at anything over 20 yards. which i bet is 80% me and 20% my ammo.

 

 

+1 

 

I think my draw speed is a lot about confidence, need to get the timer out and compare but it seems like I can really hammer the hand into the gun. 

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I put in the 8.5 hammer sing with the ultra lit kit this weekend and I had zero light strikes using ventura munitions remanufactured 124. I believe the use cci primers. I was very Impressed the DA is 4.5lbs and the SA is 2lbs if not a little less on the wheeler scale. I also installed the t3 disconnector and got the pre travel right where i want it. I did some minor polishing but will eventually go back though and make it shine although it really doesn't need it.

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I'm happy with stock sights, but I've never had aftermarket sights installed.

 

I wish my S2 would shoot with the 8.5# spring! I'm sitting at like 7.75lb DA. Granted I haven't switched over disco or polished the trigger bar yet, but it's still pretty  high for an 11.5# spring I think.

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Install the CGW trigger spring spring? + - 0.5 lb.

 

Sort of hard to compare d.a. numbers because it depends a bit on how high you allow the hook of the gauge to ride on the trigger. That said I'm a smidge under 5 or a smidge over depending with 8.5 and Federals, the sides of the trigger bar felt sticky to me and the right hand side showed definite rubbing, after not that much polishing my d.a. dropped about 0.5 and felt smooth.  

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2 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

I'm happy with stock sights, but I've never had aftermarket sights installed.

 

I wish my S2 would shoot with the 8.5# spring! I'm sitting at like 7.75lb DA. Granted I haven't switched over disco or polished the trigger bar yet, but it's still pretty  high for an 11.5# spring I think.

If you get the cjw ultra light kit that has the extended firing pin you should be good to fire Ammo with out extra hard primers. My DA was lower than that with the 11.5 I think it was like 6-6.5. I didn't do a lot of polishing.but I did hit my trigger bar and hammer strut pretty good. 

 

2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Install the CGW trigger spring spring? + - 0.5 lb.

 

Sort of hard to compare d.a. numbers because it depends a bit on how high you allow the hook of the gauge to ride on the trigger. That said I'm a smidge under 5 or a smidge over depending with 8.5 and Federals, the sides of the trigger bar felt sticky to me and the right hand side showed definite rubbing, after not that much polishing my d.a. dropped about 0.5 and felt smooth.  

I agree it's hard to get a super accurate read from the wheeler that's why I made sure I put that that's what I measure it on. I try to measure right in the middle to at the very least be consistent. I hit the trigger bar a little bit to and the trigger is awesome.

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Nah, i was getting light strikes left and right with the 8.5# spring. I don't knwo if going with a race hammer would increase reliability? I was trying 8.5# with a stock hammer.

 

I'll probably polish after my exams this week. I've shot the gun enough for it to show where it really needs polishing.

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13 minutes ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

I don't knwo if going with a race hammer would increase reliability?

 

I do not know how much it will help.

 

I do know that my CGW hammer is a good bit lighter than oem, particularly in the area farthest from the pivot point, &  that the reason revolver guys minimize hammer weight is to allow consistent ignition with low spring pressure. 

 

I think it is a thing where you get more energy transfer to the firing pin ,versus energy wasted to the stop, with a faster lighter hammer. 

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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1 hour ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

Nah, i was getting light strikes left and right with the 8.5# spring. I don't knwo if going with a race hammer would increase reliability? I was trying 8.5# with a stock hammer.

 

I'll probably polish after my exams this week. I've shot the gun enough for it to show where it really needs polishing.

I'm running the stock hammer but I do have the extended firing pin and reduced FP spring. were you running the stock firing pin?

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