Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

My Shadow 2 modifications


rowdyb

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 734
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

28 minutes ago, slavex said:

that's them, 17 or 19 round. The chrome ones (which aren't the same as the nickel I don't think) are my favorite

I'm in a 15 rd state so I can't get my hands on those nickel ones.  Which sucks because if nothing else I would like to compete with those because there are a lot of local CZ shooters but none who run those.  Would be easy to know my mags at a glance with those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, MrT_shootsAcz said:

I'm in a 15 rd state so I can't get my hands on those nickel ones.  Which sucks because if nothing else I would like to compete with those because there are a lot of local CZ shooters but none who run those.  Would be easy to know my mags at a glance with those.

I'm in a 15rd state and I run the nickels. Just gotta figure out a way :)

Edited by Vanniek71
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, slavex said:

oh damn I never even thought about 15 round rules! What are the requirements for those states? permanent mod or are things like a magblock allowed?

Depends on the state.  Where I am, Colorado, 15 is the law but larger mags are grandfathered in if owned prior to the law going in.  They also allow for "repair kits" to be bought because of how the law was so poorly written.  I won't go further into the political debate but that is how it is.  So, no need for mag block or permanent modifications here.  Other states like the Communist state of California though... not so lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, MrT_shootsAcz said:

 


Yeah. where there's a will there's a way.... or something like that. right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Family in MI, and when I visit I have care packages :)  Plus a lot of folks on a certain forum don't care and will ship mags to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Family in MI, and when I visit I have care packages [emoji4]  Plus a lot of folks on a certain forum don't care and will ship mags to you.

Good to know about these things. Thanks! By the way I just looked at your profile... you shooting the Ramah match this weekend? Always good to put a face to the name. I'm surprised we haven't bumped into each other at matches over the last year. - Joe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, MrT_shootsAcz said:


Good to know about these things. Thanks! By the way I just looked at your profile... you shooting the Ramah match this weekend? Always good to put a face to the name. I'm surprised we haven't bumped into each other at matches over the last year. - Joe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I won't be able to shoot on Sat, but I am planning on the Weld Super Classifier on Sun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, because of this thread I went and grabbed my guns from the car (shhh don't tell Canada). Tested the trigger on my practice gun and after much futzing about with my new Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge, I determined that DA was 5lb 8oz, or thereabouts. It was a bit gritty as the gun was filthy. I had highs of 5lb 15oz and lows of 5lb 6oz. But I was finally able to consistently get 5lb 12oz, SA was easier to read and was 2lb 9oz. Then I ripped her apart, with full intentions of polishing the inside of the frame where the trigger bar goes, the hammer area and trigger area. I even pulled out the trigger bar spring, which I hate doing (took a photo first to get the screw alignment right though). But on inspection, those areas of the frame are incredibly smooth, more than I'd remembered really. And the nitride is pretty damn hard (tested the hammer area and my stones would barely mark it). So, instead, I focused on the sear cage, hammer, disco and strut. The hammer received the bulk of the work and is now a glassy smooth finish on the sides. The sear cage got a good workout too, but not like the hammer. I hit the bearing surface on it as detailed in many other threads, being very very careful to not wreck the angles. Then the strut, it probably got the biggest improvement but it was quicker to do. I rounded the corners on it and smoothed it all out. Finally I did the disco, again just barely polishing the surface that engages the trigger bar. Cleaned those bits and put it back together well oiled (and still a filthy frame). Now my DA is fricking smooooooooooth, it's scary smooth, zero stacking, and oh, it's like a porn star's (hmmm, insert your genitalia term of choice here), smooth smooth smooth. But, the proof is in the pudding, out came the gauge, and it was much easier to get a reading now, 5lb 4oz consistently pull after pull after pull, SA is 2lbs 5oz. This is with a CGW 11.5lb hammer spring. 

Match gun is sitting at 5lb 15oz right now, I'll get to it later. It's also filthy because I am a bad gun owner, SA is 3lbs 1.4oz

Edited by slavex
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, slavex said:

So, because of this thread I went and grabbed my guns from the car (shhh don't tell Canada). Tested the trigger on my practice gun and after much futzing about with my new Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge, I determined that DA was 5lb 8oz, or thereabouts. It was a bit gritty as the gun was filthy. I had highs of 5lb 15oz and lows of 5lb 6oz. But I was finally able to consistently get 5lb 12oz, SA was easier to read and was 2lb 9oz. Then I ripped her apart, with full intentions of polishing the inside of the frame where the trigger bar goes, the hammer area and trigger area. I even pulled out the trigger bar spring, which I hate doing (took a photo first to get the screw alignment right though). But on inspection, those areas of the frame are incredibly smooth, more than I'd remembered really. And the nitride is pretty damn hard (tested the hammer area and my stones would barely mark it). So, instead, I focused on the sear cage, hammer, disco and strut. The hammer received the bulk of the work and is now a glassy smooth finish on the sides. The sear cage got a good workout too, but not like the hammer. I hit the bearing surface on it as detailed in many other threads, being very very careful to not wreck the angles. Then the strut, it probably got the biggest improvement but it was quicker to do. I rounded the corners on it and smoothed it all out. Finally I did the disco, again just barely polishing the surface that engages the trigger bar. Cleaned those bits and put it back together well oiled (and still a filthy frame). Now my DA is fricking smooooooooooth, it's scary smooth, zero stacking, and oh, it's like a porn star's (hmmm, insert your genitalia term of choice here), smooth smooth smooth. But, the proof is in the pudding, out came the gauge, and it was much easier to get a reading now, 5lb 4oz consistently pull after pull after pull, SA is 2lbs 5oz. This is with a CGW 11.5lb hammer spring. 

Match gun is sitting at 5lb 15oz right now, I'll get to it later. It's also filthy because I am a bad gun owner, SA is 3lbs 1.4oz

Did you take any pics of the polish job? Would like to see where you and how much you rounded the corners of the strut also. How would you compare this to the shadow 1 trigger?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/9/2017 at 4:58 AM, slavex said:

I've been running the CZ shockbuffs for about 6 years maybe longer, I typically get around 4500 rounds out of one. It is easy to tell when they are starting to fail, I inspect mine before a match and replace if they are tearing. But in my practice gun I let them go until they mess with the timing. It takes a lot of mangling before that happens. 

the thick or the thin ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, slavex said:

So, because of this thread I went and grabbed my guns from the car

 

Feeling a bit lazy myself since I did not polish anything. My excuse was that I wanted to see what shows signs of rubbing first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

I didn't polish either. It's already pretty smooth to me.

 

I'd be interested to see the strut job though.

I thought so too until I polished the sides of the frame and trigger bar, much smoother!

 

Also I polished my strut as well, but may need to do a little more on it as there were some edges id like to knock down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Vanniek71 said:

I thought so too until I polished the sides of the frame and trigger bar, much smoother!

 

Also I polished my strut as well, but may need to do a little more on it as there were some edges id like to knock down.

I'm too scared to remove my trigger bar :P Haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, SlvrDragon50 said:

I'm too scared to remove my trigger bar :P Haha

LOL, I've had these guns apart so many times I could do it in my sleep now.

 

There are a lot of parts, but there are also tons if videos and such available if you forget where something goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Vanniek71 said:

LOL, I've had these guns apart so many times I could do it in my sleep now.

 

There are a lot of parts, but there are also tons if videos and such available if you forget where something goes.

Yea haha. I remember when I first stripped the sear cage it took me forever. Now, it's a breeze. Especially the S2 style of safety removal. Soooo much easiier than the 85C. I couldn't get it apart for a while because I was trying to strip it like an older CZ.

 

I guess I'll just do it when the OEM trigger spring breaks, and I'm forced to deal with this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/7/2017 at 6:17 PM, IHAVEGAS said:

Dropped in a CGW competition legal hammer (10035) and a 1485-T1 disconnector. Kept original sear per conversation with CGW. 

 

No fitting required, no issues, your mileage may vary.

 

Pre-travel went from about 0.13 to about 0.10. I like a bit of pre-travel so that is ok for me, I can see where others might prefer going to the extra work of installing the custom fit disco. Travel after pre travel take up went from about 0.07 to about 0.055. 

 

None of the measurements are exact as it was hard to be precise. 

 

As is, need to put some trigger time in & possibly tear down again and polish (got lazy), but it is not bad. Not as good as my CTS but maybe in 5000 rounds or so it will be a more fair comparison. Wondering about oem sear versus the CGW adjustable sear being part of the difference.  

CGW said just the hammer is ok with the stock sear? I'm thinking of going this route as well the T1 disco with the CGW hammer, but wasn't sure if I needed the adjustable sear as well. I'm awaiting email responses from them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, zeroryde said:

CGW said just the hammer is ok with the stock sear? I'm thinking of going this route as well the T1 disco with the CGW hammer, but wasn't sure if I needed the adjustable sear as well. I'm awaiting email responses from them.

 

It's a matter of luck. Some people will have to fit the sear, other people will not. The adjustable sear is the guaranteed route.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I decided to try out the whole 10x bushing thing in the Shadow 2. I did it this morning and it did make a measurable decrease in my group size at 25 yards. Both off hand and rested. If i had a rear sight I liked a little better I'd say I could shoot groups like my Accu.......

 

Bold talk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

zeroryde, when I change hammers alone or especially along with discos and/or safeties, I've gone to using the CGW adjustable sear.   Unlike when tweaking 1911s, I am not a fan of filing safeties or sears on CZs.  You don't always need to fit the sear/safety but it's just so easy to use the CGW sear and it's a beautifully made billet part.  I recently did a full tune on my railed steel ambi safety compact (CZC hammer and sights, and CGW sear, springs, ext firing pin and a reasonably extensive polish) and I didn't even consider using the factory sear.  It's only a few extra bucks.     

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

Well I decided to try out the whole 10x bushing thing in the Shadow 2. I did it this morning and it did make a measurable decrease in my group size at 25 yards. Both off hand and rested. If i had a rear sight I liked a little better I'd say I could shoot groups like my Accu.......

 

Bold talk.

Welcome to the club. One of the must upgrades IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, twowheels said:

zeroryde, when I change hammers alone or especially along with discos and/or safeties, I've gone to using the CGW adjustable sear.   Unlike when tweaking 1911s, I am not a fan of filing safeties or sears on CZs.  You don't always need to fit the sear/safety but it's just so easy to use the CGW sear and it's a beautifully made billet part.  I recently did a full tune on my railed steel ambi safety compact (CZC hammer and sights, and CGW sear, springs, ext firing pin and a reasonably extensive polish) and I didn't even consider using the factory sear.  It's only a few extra bucks.     

Thanks for the informative replies. This is my first CZ coming from plastic guns which were easy to take apart and fiddle with. I've already done a polish and 11.5 # hammer 11 # recoil, TRS and extended firing pin. Boy is it a pain in the butt to work with taking apart and putting it back together. I appreciate the info from everyone here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...