ihocky2 Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 I loaded about 2500 .223 last year without a hickup using the Dillon case lube. Processing brass lately I've run into my 3rd stuck case in less than 700 pieces of brass. First two were L.C. and the latest was PMC. I am using an RCBS FL sizing die, same one as last year and cleaned after first stuck case. I am not sure where the problem is coming from. I lay the brass in a pizza box, spray with a few spritzes of lube, shuffle up to turn over and distrubute lube and spray again to make sure completely coated. After a couple minutes I start resizing. Is there anything I should change? While it is not causing the sticking, is there anything that will help lubing the inside of the necks to make resizing easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 The cardboard is probably absorbing some of the case lube. I've been using gallon zip top freezer bags for lubing. Fill about 3/4 full with brass, give it 3 squirts of lube, seal the bag, roll the bag back and forth, give it 2 more squirts, roll it some more. Wait a few minutes before sizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 I'll try switching to the bag. Just curious why the change in results from last year when I used the same steps and the same box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dauntedfuture Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 I agree that you need more lube. I used a plastic container with a lid, spray and shake and spray and shake. You should also let the lube settle a little before you start. You almost can't have enough of the Dillon lube but you do need to let the brass sit so it can distribute itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 On 3/14/2017 at 3:21 PM, ihocky2 said: I loaded about 2500 .223 last year without a hickup using the Dillon case lube. Processing brass lately I've run into my 3rd stuck case in less than 700 pieces of brass. First two were L.C. and the latest was PMC. I am using an RCBS FL sizing die, same one as last year and cleaned after first stuck case. I am not sure where the problem is coming from. I lay the brass in a pizza box, spray with a few spritzes of lube, shuffle up to turn over and distrubute lube and spray again to make sure completely coated. After a couple minutes I start resizing. Is there anything I should change? While it is not causing the sticking, is there anything that will help lubing the inside of the necks to make resizing easier? 3 in 700 just sounds like a few pieces didn't get lube during the shaking process. I use home made dillon lube and it works great but occasionally I still come across a "dry" 9mm case and it's really tough so I can imagine a rifle case getting stuck easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigedp51 Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) On 3/15/2017 at 8:29 AM, Dan Sierpina said: The cardboard is probably absorbing some of the case lube. I've been using gallon zip top freezer bags for lubing. Fill about 3/4 full with brass, give it 3 squirts of lube, seal the bag, roll the bag back and forth, give it 2 more squirts, roll it some more. Wait a few minutes before sizing. I use the same method of gallon zip top freezer bags for lubing as above, but I squeeze and work the brass inside the bag by hand. I found that this method got enough lube in and around the case mouth was enough to lube the inside the case necks. I have been reloading for over 47 years and this method works better than anything else I have used in the past. Edited March 23, 2017 by bigedp51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 39 minutes ago, 57K said: Just curious because I have never used the Dillon spritz. But isn't there a recommendation for drying time before you resize? I know that Hornady recommends 30 minutes for One Shot before you resize. Dillon lube doesn't dry, it's alcohol and lanolin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 4 hours ago, 57K said: Okay, so it's thin enough that there is no build up on the neck and shoulder? Using the bag method, I've never had a dented shoulder from the lube. You don't need them dripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 I put my pistol brass in an aluminum pan like a caterer uses and you get at Wally World . Spray once, shake, let sit for ten minutes and into the case feeder. With 5.56 I spray twice. Still using Dillon lube. Trays are cheap and disposable. A bulk pack used to last a long time until my wife found out I had them. I get raided on the holidays. But she does feed me pretty good. LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 16 hours ago, 57K said: Yeah, that's kind of the point. With the One-Shot I've never had a stuck case and I load true 5.56 MM NATO rather than misrepresented .223 REM. I use Alox for big bore as well as what I started with reloading for the .41 magnum with steel dies.So with what you guys have said about your methods using the Dillon spritz, how did the OP get stuck cases? My only guess is that the O.P. was using a cardboard box to lube in. It is possible that lube was being absorbed, or just not enough lube for the amount of cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 7:56 PM, Dan Sierpina said: Dillon lube doesn't dry, it's alcohol and lanolin. In a way it does dry, actually the alcohol evaperates, leaving only the lanolin. The alcohol is there to get the lanolin to flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) On Friday, March 24, 2017 at 11:05 PM, 57K said: Yeah, that's kind of the point. With the One-Shot I've never had a stuck case and I load true 5.56 MM NATO rather than misrepresented .223 REM. I use Alox for big bore as well as what I started with reloading for the .41 magnum with steel dies.So with what you guys have said about your methods using the Dillon spritz, how did the OP get stuck cases? Can I use alox for case lube? I cast and powder coat my own bullets and have alox left over from my bullet swaging dies. Edited March 26, 2017 by rustybayonet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 5 hours ago, rustybayonet said: Can I use alox for case lube? I cast and powder coat my own bullets and have alox left over from my bullet swaging dies. I assume you're referring to liquid alox, since you'd need to melt the blocks of pure alox to apply it to your cases. Liquid alox would technically work as a lubricant, but its horribly messy, and difficult to remove from cases. You wouldn't be able to leave your cases uncleaned and shoot your cartridges either. It has to be removed completely. BTW LEE liquid alox original purpose was as an automotive rustproofer, and it has very strong ties to cosmoline. Many of us know what a pain cosmo can be to remove from metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 7 hours ago, anachronism said: I assume you're referring to liquid alox, since you'd need to melt the blocks of pure alox to apply it to your cases. Liquid alox would technically work as a lubricant, but its horribly messy, and difficult to remove from cases. You wouldn't be able to leave your cases uncleaned and shoot your cartridges either. It has to be removed completely. BTW LEE liquid alox original purpose was as an automotive rustproofer, and it has very strong ties to cosmoline. Many of us know what a pain cosmo can be to remove from metal. Oh maybe I just leave it where it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 After lubing your cases with the Dillon Lube you need to wait 10 - 15 minutes. This video shows the process as recommended by the company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78Staff Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 I use DIllon case lube for rifle, and One Shot for pistol. Same method, basically same as Dillon vid above, although I use a tupperware type container instead of a metal plan. KOW no stuck cases yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tires2burn Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Shake the lube up because it separates if not used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmantwo Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Dillon case lube never worked well for me. If you haven’t tried the Hornady One Shot spray lube, do yourself a favor it’s amazing stuff. And you don’t have to re-clean your brass after using it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 On 3/28/2017 at 9:12 AM, jhgtyre said: After lubing your cases with the Dillon Lube you need to wait 10 - 15 minutes. This video shows the process as recommended by the company. Hmm... I lube throw in CF and start cranking. Never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 A lot of time the Dillon lube will separate with the lanolin forming a layer at the bottom of the bottle, even standing overnite. It's hard to see too, but it's there. If you don't shake the bottle a bunch all you will get is alcohol on the brass. I find when shaken well and allowed to dry on the brass before using the Dillon lube is way superior to one shot. I won't use anything but Dillon lube on pistol and rifle brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 4 hours ago, Sarge said: Hmm... I lube throw in CF and start cranking. Never had a problem. It works but I find it to be a lot messier if I don't wait till the carrier (alcohol) evaporates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamj Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Maybe I mixed mine with a different ratio than dillon, but my homemade concoction if alcohol and lanolin always seems to work better than Dillon's case lube in my 650. I shake well before use and allow enough time for the alcohol to evaporate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now