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M3k crappy


Spike84

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I have m3k been having lots of problems about to get rid of it seems to work only when it doesn't matter at s match it always goes down. #1 problem is I'm getting the benelli click when I pull the trigger . It's like the bolts doesn't close all the way and not fully rotating into battery and I'm using top quality loads no walmart crap. I use to get fte when I used cheap Walmart federal but since I switched to AA Winchester thst problem is gone but I have new problem any advice before I abandon this gun 

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I'm sure some experts will chime in but I've also worked thru issue. More details will help.

 

Round count?

Any mods?

What ammo? FPS?

Any trends when it happens?

Barrel extractor cut smooth or rough?

Gun stored with bolt back or Forward?

Lube frequency?

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Gun is 8 months old by now have about 1500-2000 thru gun. Mods are as follows light trigger springs by taran tactical there are 2 of them in not sure exactly which 2 there called. I have opened up loading port myself I think I did a good job. Sanded and polished the magazine tube. +9 Moa tube with moa follower . It happens with all ammo I switched to Winchester AA exclusively and thought I cured problem but it's back I can't find any trends that's what's driving me nuts . I normally run the gun very wet with lube but I'm going to try running it dry at match tomorrow and see what happens. Extractor seems smooth no rough edges. I did have the inertia spring break and replaced with benelli spring which is 1 coil longer because no one had stoeger spring in stock I thought this may be problem but not sure how the system really even works. I store gun with bolt closed usually clean every other match about 200 rounds. All my ammo is 3 dram 1 1/8 oz minimum 1200 but like to get 1250-1300 7 1/2 buckshot. Winchester AA  and the cheap Walmart winchester federal not good in my gun I have a whole different issue with that crap which is fte but switching to Winchester fixed that problem. This click problem has happend about 15 times at 6-7 matches so far has cost me many matches 

Edited by Spike84
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9 hours ago, Spike84 said:

Gun is 8 months old by now have about 1500-2000 thru gun. Mods are as follows light trigger springs by taran tactical there are 2 of them in not sure exactly which 2 there called. I have opened up loading port myself I think I did a good job. Sanded and polished the magazine tube. +9 Moa tube with moa follower . It happens with all ammo I switched to Winchester AA exclusively and thought I cured problem but it's back I can't find any trends that's what's driving me nuts . I normally run the gun very wet with lube but I'm going to try running it dry at match tomorrow and see what happens. Extractor seems smooth no rough edges. I did have the inertia spring break and replaced with benelli spring which is 1 coil longer because no one had stoeger spring in stock I thought this may be problem but not sure how the system really even works. I store gun with bolt closed usually clean every other match about 200 rounds. All my ammo is 3 dram 1 1/8 oz minimum 1200 but like to get 1250-1300 7 1/2 buckshot. Winchester AA  and the cheap Walmart winchester federal not good in my gun I have a whole different issue with that crap which is fte but switching to Winchester fixed that problem. This click problem has happend about 15 times at 6-7 matches so far has cost me many matches 

Did the issue happen before the inertia spring change?

 

Is the bolt fully closing, then bouncing back open when cycling at full speed? Hand cycle a few rounds to make sure the bolt is fully closing (watch the extractor position to know if the bolt rotates into battery when you cycle by hand)

Edited by GunCat
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When I hand cycle slowly the bolt will not  fully closed when I let it go home empty the bolt doesn't fully rotate thst last bit then when I pull trigger hammer pushes bolt fully home that's where I get click and no bang. with full speed it will close fully. Issue happend before and after inertia spring broke but I'm replacing it today with factory stoeger spring with correct coils to see if that eliminates it. Could be the bolt is bouncing open st full speed I eilll have to shoot some rounds to see if that is the case 

Edited by Spike84
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Hopefully the problem solves with the new spring sets if it doesn't try running 2 or 3 slugs at 1600 FPS and see how that recoil sets the guns back into battery after every shot. If that extra pressure doesn't make the spring move with a purpose it will be something else.

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My M3000 had this same issue.  I fixed it by softening the transition on the bolt head that the interfaces with the large pin in the carrier.  I had to sand down the transition a little and polish the heck out of it.  Cycling it by hand I eventually got it to where no matter how slowly I closed the bolt it will fully close and rotate.  if you work on this go very slowly, with lots of test fitting.

 

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  • 10 months later...

Grease your bolt cam pin and cam mating surface in your BCG.  You can cheat it if you don't want to disassemble the gun by removing your charging handle and using a syringe to inject grease.  This will grease the areas in question.  Don't forget to use light oil on the outside of the mag tube as well as on the rails of the action bar.

I polished my bolt and barrel extension in all areas that mate between the two.  Be careful not to round off any cuts in the extension.  All that is needed is polishing.  I have mine so it returns to full battery when just barely pulling back on the charging handle and releasing.  I would also be sure to get an oem inertia spring back in it asap.

Call Tom at MOA Precision.

Hope you get it reliable soon.  I had the same problems for a bit.

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Sanding and polishing the transition is one of the worst things you can do. IT WILL induce problems in the future! That transition is there to keep the bolt carrier from compressing the inertia spring on closing and causing the bolt to bounce back out of battery. Two things on this one.....check the camera pin for cracks or burrs, and the extractor cut out and extension bolt locking slots for high spots or burrs.  Hold the gun up horizontal looking at the ejection port. Drop the bolt from locked open and see if the bolt bounces back. It shouldn't hardly at all. If it is this is where your problem is and it is more than likely a defectively machined carrier....OR THE "TRANSITION" AREA IS ROUNDED OUT....like with sanding and polishing! Either way it is in this area

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Kurt

I won't challenge your comments (mostly because I would lose haha), but I experienced similar issues as the OP stated simply due to my bolt hanging up and not going fully into battery on occasion.  I lightly polished my barrel ext and it allowed my bolt to go into battery like butta'.  Not sure if this caused harm to my M3000, due mostly to the problem disappearing (post polish job).  I can see where anything beyond a simple polish could cause other issues though. Maybe I just inadvertently deburred the area you mentioned above? 

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No you didn't. I am talking about the slot the cam pin rides in on the bolt carrier. What you did on the barrel extension is just fine as long as there is still pleanty of engagement of the bt head and the slots they go into. ?

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  • 2 months later...

Kurtm, thank you for the well thought out and explained issue that can arise based on the modification to the bolt carrier that I did in order to get my gun to run.

My gun did not run and with that rough transition there it would stop and no amount of force would get it to close completely.  My gun was on its way to a junk heap if I didn't get it running, which is what freed me up to try different things.  I figured if I did mess it up the part I worked on is not that expensive.  After several thousand rounds my gun is still running strong, but if it does start to experience issues I will definitely reference your previous post to assist in troubleshooting it and fixing it.

Thanks

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Long ago, I tried that very thing on a M1 Benelli. I made that thing so "nice" there was no way it wouldn't go into battery. Life was grand.......so I thought. I was plagued by intermittent bolt out of battery clicks, about 1 in 30 rounds. I made that cam slot nice and smooth and did away with the entire shelf area till it looked more like the cam surface on an M-14....... and still the dreaded Benelli click, very intermittent and very frustrating. Then I filmed the damn thing in very slow mo. What I had done was actually causing the problem. That shelf is there to keep the inertia spring from compressing when the bolt is shoved forward by the recoil spring. When I viewed the video I saw the bolt and carrier bouncing back well over half way, because the shelf area was gone. A new bolt carrier,......which was VERY hard to find in Benellies infancy, cured it! Then I had to re-do all the cool stuff to it that I had done to the one I ruined. This was in 1998. I'm not a smart guy, but I do catch on.... especially when the lesson comes with a very heafty price tag! 

I am very glad that what you did worked out! Nothing screams success quite like success......but if you have an intermittent Click it will give you a place to start looking. The only reason I even brought it up was that if your like me, a little is good, so a lot must be better.......and it got real expensive. I wasn't calling down your work, but kind of using you as a warning g for others that like me would hog the hell out of it!!!

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