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Bolt protrusion on 929


paul788

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I just purchased a new 929 to shoot in USPSA.  Currently a B class using a K frame and Comp 3s. 

 

Trying to open the cylinder using the trigger finger does not work.  I checked the bolt and it is about 10 thousands short of flush with the recoil shield.  Researching here told me it should be flush or cause the hole to become egg shaped from forcing it open.  The bolt is the problem as it did not move forward with the release removed and it is not touching the hole in the side for the stud for the release.   I do not see any burrs on either the bolt or the frame.  This is a black coated MIM part I believe. 

1.  Is it safe to file the face until it is flush? 

2.  Does it need to be hardened after filing?

3.  What should i use as an anti corrosion coating?

4.  Or should I buy another and see if it is a better fit?  I believe the MIM parts should be identical so I'm thinking this isn't likely to solve my problem.

 

Is there a simple way to reduce tension on the ball detent on the crane?  Unloaded starts with the K frame mean push the release with thumb and push cylinder open with finger as left hand grabs speedloader, faster for me than using both hands to get the gun open and then reach for loader.  I'd like to continue to use this technique if I can. 

 

Thanks

Paul Beck

 

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Nope.  I disassembled all of the parts but the cylinder stop and spring,  Nothing would move it further forward.  Using magnifer could not see any burrs around the hole in the frame.  Same with the bolt.  The round section is reduced in cross section slightly before if reaches the flat area that contacts the frame.  The stud for the release had 30-40 thousandths gap to the front of it's hole.  Either the round cylinder part of the bolt is too short or the milling for the flat face did not go far enough. 

It shoots nice so far (100 rds,) so it's not going back to Smith unless something breaks.  I'm shooting it at the SC Sectional end of the month so I'm in a hurry to get it tuned and a load worked up. 

 

Paul

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The 929s also have (excessive) ball detent lockup , the notch on the barrel can be worked a little to make it easier to open.I'd look at that first.

Edited by alecmc
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I have seen a lot of short bolts from S&W lately. Yes you can file the front flat to let the bolt come farther forward. All the ones I have ever replaced with new ones have been too long and needed shortened. Might call S&W and see if they will send you a new one.

Make sure the cylinder latch is not bottoming out on the forward edge of the travel slot.  

As for the ball detent, you can make it easier to open by filing the outer leg of the notch on the barrel. Just file where it is already flat and go slowly as you can take to much off and effect the lock up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ive bought 2 performance center (a.ka. poorformance center LOL) revolvers in the last two years. Both of them (aside from other deficiencies) have had short bolts. Cylinder opening is a chore because of the center pin is still slightly engaged. I remove the bolt from the frame and carefully file the forward face of the flat around the pusher pin to get more forward motion out of it so the face of the bolt pusher pin is perfectly flush to the blast shield surface. Be careful not to let the edge of the file cut into that pusher pin. Its a pain in the ass but its the only fix for this. DO NOT try to fix this with adding more radius to the cylinder center pin! if you go to far the pin wont secure the cylinder in place firmly. Also as a side note another hard cylinder opening condition after you fire the gun comes from the firing pin bushing. I still dont get the design purpose for the bushing to protrude beyond the breech face. It bowls the primer in and essentially creates a detent for a case to push back into under firing and expand to stick there hanging up the cylinder from opening or making the double action pull harder. Not to mention it beats up the primer pockets shortening case life with premature loose primer pockets. I dress this bushing to about flush to the breech and it eliminates sticking without any ignition compromise.    

Edited by BallisticianX
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