safenate Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 So, I've been a Dillon 550B owner since 2000 and have loaded 20,000+ rounds on it since then (mostly 9/40/45). Picked up a RL1050 around the new year from a widow who decided to finally offload it after it sat dormant since 2008. After adjusting the powder bar and overall length, I dumped some N350 and fresh primers. Enjoying a case feeder and primer pocket de-crimp was nice, but about every 10-20 rounds, the Primer Arm Cam assembly rotates out of alignment and the whole machine seems to lock mid-stroke, cause numerous issues (and frustration). In one such moment of frustration, the damn RL1050 Operator broke the Ratchet Restriction Tab into 2 pieces. A quick call to Dillon got a replacement part (plus a new manual and additional Dillon pieces) on the way. Can anyone explain the Primer Arm Cam rotation, stoppage issue and how to keep from getting double powder loads/unseated bullets and un-primed ammo? I'd like to churn out 9mm faster than the 550B, but may end up selling off this RL1050. I've heard other platforms are more complicated than the 550B and it may be beyond my mental capacity to operate such a machine. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henny Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) You might want to remove the primer slide assembly and clean it out. From sitting that long, who knows what could be gumming things up? Whenever I have priming problems with the priming system, it's usually some spilled powder or tumbling media that affects the slide's travel. Also, make sure you have the primer slide in the correct way, with the roll pin to the right ( or outside ) of the machine. Dont not be too quick to give up on your 1050, they are great machines! Edited March 4, 2017 by Henny I spell like an idiot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Dump the ratchet restriction tab, you only need that if you really want to pause the 1050 on the up/downstroke to examine something, and it's more of a hassle with it on.It would help if you could post a picture of the primer assembly stuck in midstroke.But...I bet if you look at the toolhead guide pin when the machine locks up, you'll see that its not aligned with the primer slide, and that's why the machine won't move any further. That's another reason why to dump the ratchet tab, it's easier to manipulate the 1050 when you run into that hardstop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdinga Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I took the rachet tab thing off of my 1050 and it has run much smoother since then. It might be worth your while to order a new primer slide that no longer uses the little rubber piece on the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Yes dump that ratchet gizmo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 There must be some killer YouTube vids on Dillon 1050s???I never looked. If you live in Denver I could show you so easy, but explaining is not so easy. Verify the sled moves with no friction manually with the powder unit disconnected. When you do engage the powder assembly to the sled verify the tab that goes into the sled is not too deep and dragging/hitting the base under the sled. If I recall, I think I put a couple washers under the pin that engages the primer slide after I took that ratchet off. Otherwise sometimes that pin would occasionally disconnect from that primer assembly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safenate Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Some pics are attached. Is that one part supposed to be scored due to contact? It appears that scored part has been beveled. Is that factory, or modified? Thanks for input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 This part should not be worn as shown. I suspect a combination of lack of grease on the upper pivot pin, and worn springs. The damage is cosmetic only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safenate Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 (edited) Which springs should get replaced and how could I test them? What part number is the 'upper pivot pin'? Now the handle won't go beyond the horizontal position (doesn't pick up brass, etc.) Edited March 13, 2017 by safenate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdinga Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I would send the whole thing back to Dillon for cleaning/tune up. It will come back like new. These guys work magic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 See page 23, Primer System Assembly drawing. #17604 Bracket pivot pin #13844 Short lever spring #13936 Tab/Spring Arm Spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punxsutawn Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I too picked up an RL 1050 that had been dormant for a very long time and had quite a time setting it up. I wanted to chuck it out a window many times. I tore everything down as far as I could and to make a long story short, I used 600 grit diamond polish in the primer slide assembly so it slid effortlessly. I used the same material in the primer punch as that was sticky as well. That helped immensely but not perfectly. I replaced all the springs on the machine and literally, all my headaches vanished. It's an absolute pleasure to use the equipment now. Hindsight, I wish I had sent it back in to Dillon for refurbishing as I'm sure it would have saved me a lot of frustration. I did learn a lot from the experience though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safenate Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks dillon & punxsutawn. I'll call Dillon regarding the cleanup cost, but will likely spend the time to rebuild it. I like to know what makes things tick, but is more complex than the 550B I've been running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safenate Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) Thanks to Dillon and those who recommended removal of rachet tab. I've lubed and adjusted so the machine runs now. The springs ( #13844 Short lever spring #13936 Tab/Spring Arm Spring) are in but after looking at them, do i also replace the cotter pin they both ride on? It looks that one of half of it is already broken off and trying to remove and rebend it may break it. Next issue: i'm getting both primers that aren't removed and then some primers that seat just before they are flush. Primers before I broke the rachet tab were seating completely (below flush). I did run one piece of brass all the way around the press solo, and it did fine. When I put in two in a row, the first one is not fully seated, but the second is... Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks all. Edited April 2, 2017 by safenate forgetfulness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I suggest replacing the cotter pin, if it is partially broken. Primers that are not being removed are undoubtedly getting wedged on the tip of the depriming pin, and being partially pulled back up into the primer pocket. Use medium grit sandpaper to round off any square, sharp edges or burrs from the tip of the pin. On primer seating, make sure the toolhead bolt is tight, and that the primer rocker bolt is tight as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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