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.38 not dropping freely into GP100 cylinder


daytona955i

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I have a Ruger MC that I've done a lot of work on. My last hurdle to clear before I'm happy with it is reloading the gun faster.

 

I'm not using nickel cases, and I am using Comp III's that I've cut down. I clean the cylinder really well, but it seems like I still get three cylinders in a row on one side that just won't let the rounds drop in cleanly once the cylinder warms up.

 

I think the crimp is good, there isn't an obvious measurable bell in the case where the bullet sits.

 

I have cylinder hones and the cutting oil, and have used them because I had issues with fired cases not dropping freely even with a good strike of the ejection rod with the barrel at 90 degrees, and there isn't a drop of oil inside the chambers.

 

Do I need to go further with the cylinder honing? Or should I be looking somewhere else? 

 

 

Edited by daytona955i
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10 minutes ago, alecmc said:

are the cylinder charge holes chamfered? 

Slightly from the factory, just enough to break the edge. The rounds drop pretty far, but not enough to close the cylinder every time without a secondary tap.

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What size bullets are you running?  Only time I've had that happen in a S&W or Ruger was due to bullet bulge near the base of the bullet.  I've seen it in 38 and 45 with flat based bullets or oversize bevel base.

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12 hours ago, Alaskan454 said:

What size bullets are you running?  Only time I've had that happen in a S&W or Ruger was due to bullet bulge near the base of the bullet.  I've seen it in 38 and 45 with flat based bullets or oversize bevel base.

158gr Xtremes FP. I'll mic some again and see what I get.

Edited by daytona955i
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  • 3 weeks later...

I know this is a very basic question, and you've probably already eliminated this, but are they the same three holes every time? After the gun cools down, do they chamber properly in these cylinders? I'm wondering if you aren't experiencing some fouling issues. This could possibly carry down into the actual chamber area if you shoot really light loads, and the outside of the cases get smoked a bit. I once lost an important (to me) relay in a pin match because I had chambering issues on a reload. It turned out that my carefully prepared cast bullet match loads fouled  the chamber throats, and two of them wouldn't accept that same bullet dimension until I cleaned them. I ended up not using that particular bullet design again in any further matches that required a reload.

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11 hours ago, anachronism said:

I know this is a very basic question, and you've probably already eliminated this, but are they the same three holes every time? After the gun cools down, do they chamber properly in these cylinders? I'm wondering if you aren't experiencing some fouling issues. This could possibly carry down into the actual chamber area if you shoot really light loads, and the outside of the cases get smoked a bit. I once lost an important (to me) relay in a pin match because I had chambering issues on a reload. It turned out that my carefully prepared cast bullet match loads fouled  the chamber throats, and two of them wouldn't accept that same bullet dimension until I cleaned them. I ended up not using that particular bullet design again in any further matches that required a reload.

Thanks for the reply. It is the same three chambers, and from what I know, Ruger reams the cylinders three at a time, so it makes sense that they might be different. Rounds drop smooth and clean when cold. I use a stainless chamber brush and get the fouling out until the cylinders are shiny.

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On 3/23/2017 at 0:45 PM, revoman said:

Again have chambers reamed to specs so that all are the same. If 3 work and 3 don't that should tell you something. ?

I know you're probably right, but I was hoping someone knew something that I didn't!

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On 3/23/2017 at 8:56 AM, daytona955i said:

Thanks for the reply. It is the same three chambers, and from what I know, Ruger reams the cylinders three at a time, so it makes sense that they might be different. Rounds drop smooth and clean when cold. I use a stainless chamber brush and get the fouling out until the cylinders are shiny.

 

I figured you had already eliminated this possibility, but thought I'd ask anyway.

 

Best of luck.

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