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SDB Catastrophic failure


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Swanny10, had the same issue with one of two I own. Several months later had the handle go same place as 9x45.

 

In both instances Dillon had parts out to me within a few days and I was good to go. There are two side arms for the Dillon SDB. I only know because they asked a few questions when I called, with that they shipped the correct one. 

 

PS. Keep enough rounds loaded on the shelf so if the situation arises you have some stock to by you a few days till the calvary comes thru.

 

No worries, they will take care of you!

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40 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

My 20+ year old SDB broke in the same spot - but the old ones were lighter material,

and that was after 20,000 rounds.

 

Dillon sent me two (2) new arms - in case the other one broke :) 

 

Do you use lube on your cases?

Negative on the lube. 

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I don't use case lube on 9mms because my tumbling method has them slippery and shinny ready to load. Overnight in walnut loaded with 2 teaspoons of mineral oil to clean, and overnight in corn loaded with NuFinish car polish for that jewelry store shine. Now for 357SIG I use a dry lube, Miller-Stpephenson MS-122AD PTFE, because you don't have to clean it off afterwards.

 

I also broke a swing arm and shell plate retainer bolt on the SD, but the parts arrived in time to load for the next USPSA match. Now I keep at least 500 rounds ready to go.

 

From nasty range brass to happy ready to load brass

image36417.jpg

 

broken shell plate bolt, use a pencil eraser to unscrew the broken part, do not take the whole thing apart.

image37077.jpg

 

converted SD powder hopper Harley style clunky noisy shift linkage to quite as a mouse old style Gold Wing shift linkage.

image37279.jpg

 

 

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Mine broke the swing arm in the same spot, low left, I think most of the load is there during the crank stroke. I lube mine with 75-90 gear oil. Tried grease but too messy for me. Maybe one day when I'n bored, I will drill and tap the swing arms for Zerk fittings. Do make sure to lube that, otherwise the cast shaft on the crank arm and the integral shaft on the body will gall.

 

image37578.jpg

Edited by 9x45
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9 minutes ago, 9x45 said:

oh, don't forget to use a loading light at the seating station to make sure there  is powder in there. I use these little music lights, called Mighty Brites.

 

image37576.jpg

I have a light from inline fab. 

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I had the same exact failure on my crank arm at around 12K rounds.  They sent new arms for both sides PLUS the brass sockets (upgrades from the delrin sockets).  I do notice the upper left socket is looser than the other 4, so I wonder if that had something to do with it.  That and I had a batch of tough primer pockets once...  Glad Dillon has their great warranty!

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10 hours ago, dillon said:

Be sure to grease both the inside and outside of the brass link arm bearing.  Lack of lube is the most likely reason for the link arm to fail, as galling begins.

 

When did the bushings change from plastic to brass?

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  • 3 months later...
On 2/22/2017 at 10:26 AM, 9x45 said:

I don't use case lube on 9mms because my tumbling method has them slippery and shinny ready to load. Overnight in walnut loaded with 2 teaspoons of mineral oil to clean, and overnight in corn loaded with NuFinish car polish for that jewelry store shine. Now for 357SIG I use a dry lube, Miller-Stpephenson MS-122AD PTFE, because you don't have to clean it off afterwards.

 

I also broke a swing arm and shell plate retainer bolt on the SD, but the parts arrived in time to load for the next USPSA match. Now I keep at least 500 rounds ready to go.

 

From nasty range brass to happy ready to load brass

image36417.jpg

 

broken shell plate bolt, use a pencil eraser to unscrew the broken part, do not take the whole thing apart.

image37077.jpg

 

converted SD powder hopper Harley style clunky noisy shift linkage to quite as a mouse old style Gold Wing shift linkage.

image37279.jpg

 

 

That's a great idea on the powder measure. What exactly did you use?

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