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Thinking of trying open


3djedi

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I have all 3 lengths:

3ea 170mm

2ea 155mm

3ea 140mm

 

what I use and when depends on the stage breakdown and my plan. If I could only buy 3 mags to start I would do:

1ea 170mm

2ea 155mm

 Barney off one of the 155's that becomes your "oh shit" mag in position 3 use the 170 and the other 155 in whatever order the stage breakdown and your plan indicates.

 

140's are good for classifiers and the rare stage where you shoot 8-12  then reload.  If I am shooting moor than 12 I am starting with a bigger mag

 

 

 

 

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19 minutes ago, 2011BLDR said:

I have all 3 lengths:

3ea 170mm

2ea 155mm

3ea 140mm

 

what I use and when depends on the stage breakdown and my plan. If I could only buy 3 mags to start I would do:

1ea 170mm

2ea 155mm

 Barney off one of the 155's that becomes your "oh shit" mag in position 3 use the 170 and the other 155 in whatever order the stage breakdown and your plan indicates.

 

140's are good for classifiers and the rare stage where you shoot 8-12  then reload.  If I am shooting moor than 12 I am starting with a bigger mag

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ended up ordering a 170 and two of the 155's.     

 

Is it possible to convert 40 mags to 9mm? I have six of those in 140mm. 

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Picked up the gun today. I didn't have time to break it apart but initial impressions are very good. Super tight lock up and slide fitment. Probably take a little breaking in period. Looks good. I don't really like the adjustment buttons on the RTS2. I can't feel when they are depressed. Only can see the change on the dot brightness.

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Well, have fun.

Give it some time to loosen up. It may spit and cough a little at first, but get a few thousand rounds down the tube and it will purr like a kitten.

 

P.S. I don't know if 'purring like a kitten' is a proper gun metaphor, or not. How about, 'it'll run like John Wick owned it'.

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1 hour ago, 3djedi said:

Picked up the gun today. I didn't have time to break it apart but initial impressions are very good. Super tight lock up and slide fitment. Probably take a little breaking in period. Looks good. I don't really like the adjustment buttons on the RTS2. I can't feel when they are depressed. Only can see the change on the dot brightness.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

 

small tip on the RTS2 buttons. you don't have to push them hard at all. the lightest touch will activate them. I also didn't like that they aren't 'clicky' but just adjust brightness while looking at the dot and don't press them hard. 

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Thanks!

So the switches are probably touch sensitive and not pressure activated? Like I said, I barely had a chance to fondle the thing at the gun store before heading to work. Lol

I usually use Lucas oil gun lube but maybe I should use something thinner than that like mobile one automotive oil.

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yeah they are touch sensitive. to turn it on you don't have to push the button in at all. just touch your finger to it lightly. :)

 

the Lucas oil is probably ok. I use a slightly thinner one for break in called battle born. https://www.amazon.com/Breakthrough-Advanced-Firearm-Cleaning-Technology/dp/B00U8WMV1Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1487894412&sr=1-2&keywords=breakthrough%2Bbattle%2Bborn&th=1&psc=1

 

it has a lot of bullshit about how special it is like all gun oils do. I won it off a prize table so thought I'd try it. It's very thin. looks as thin as water. but it lubes very well and given how tight the new gun is a nice thin oil is a good idea. opinion on using motor oil on guns is divided. I have used it before but even at $8 a bottle gun oil last such a long time the cost isn't an issue. even the little 2oz bottle will last more than a year even if you used it once a week... for $8 the battle born stuff is worth a try I think. see if you like it. it and Lucas extreme duty are pretty much all I use these days. 

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8 minutes ago, 3djedi said:

Thanks!

So the switches are probably touch sensitive and not pressure activated? Like I said, I barely had a chance to fondle the thing at the gun store before heading to work. Lol

I usually use Lucas oil gun lube but maybe I should use something thinner than that like mobile one automotive oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

 

Everyone's preferences are a bit different, but I subscribe to the full-synthetic motor oil school of thought. I use Mobil 1 myself, but most any will do. A quart is a lifetime supply. Harley-Davidson 50 weight full-synthetic would be the coolest.

Also, don't use any grease other than a little on the mainspring, and the magazine release spring.  

Edited by MikieM
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Some movement back and forward is not uncommon as the barrel needs some room to move in and out of battery freely. 

 

To be honest that 'seems' like a little more than ideal.

 

what's important is how it locks up when the gun is assembled. Presumably when it's in battery the lower lug is firmly on the pin (not the link) and it's holding the barrel deep into the lugs with the hood up against the breach. 

 

Ideally you'd think the hood would be fitted such that even resting in the slide it would be tight front to back and side to side but most 1911s and 2011s I've toyed with (and it's many as fit interests me) have some room. 

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4 hours ago, 3djedi said:

Is this normal? My limited gun doesn't move at all. 

 

when the gun is assembled it seems really tight......

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3vduvknjgqd82o5/AABWtwkxrdwlOysJPS9zGfNza?dl=0

 

 

How does it shoot? It has slightly more than I've seen in what people want.

Is it a new CK build? it may be how they build them to unlock with a comp. But I've never check their open guns.

 

Everyone is on this quest to have 1911/2011s that lock up with no movement in the belief that its the only way to shoot 1/2in groups.  There are many people that can attest to having rattle guns which shoot well.  If the barrel has a bit of movement, gun shoots accurate groups and locks up correctly in the lugs so as to not induce any additional wear, then run the shit out of it.  I bet you won't have to clean/lube the thing as often.  

 

I had bought a used open gun a while back, I was at minimum the 3rd owner. The barrel did not have that much front/back play, but it had side to side and rotational play when in the slide, but not on the gun. When it was together you could wiggle the barrel around by the comp but everything else locked up.  I bought it online, so I wasn't able to see this first, as my limited guns have no movement at all.  Anyway, long story short, that gun would put hole on top of hole when shooting and got me to shooting Master classifiers. 

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How much clearance the hood has depends on who you believe and what "game" you are shooting.  In the last 1911 I built the back of the hood touches the breech face, just barely.  It is a super accurate gun, but not just for that.  Everything else fits perfectly.

 

I was reading what some gunsmiths thought, and the consensus seemed to be there should be some clearance for guns shot for "action", and some thought for bullseye too.  Paraphrasing one, why would you make it so tight a little piece of debris could prevent the gun from locking up.  Don't be stupid.  Put in at least a .001" clearance.

 

I had fit a Kart Easy-Fit barrel to a 1911 45 ACP.  It was stunningly accurate.  I wanted to find out how BarSto compared, so I fit one of their barrels to that gun.  It still wears it.  It is just as accurate, but slower.  I think that is because the Kart barrel has a smoother bore finish.

 

Anyway, the Kart was now surplus, so I decided to experiment.  I put it in a pistol and the hood was too short by about .003".  Everything else was right and the gun locked up solidly.  I shot it and was surprised to find it just as accurate as previously.  ????  I filed more off the back of the hood and tried again.  Still accurate.  After I had taken enough off for .013" clearance with no loss of accuracy, I stopped.  Admittedly, this is just one test.  However, it makes me doubt the contention that the barrel hood is one of the three lock up points required for good accuracy.  Only the upper and lower lugs locked up with this barrel.

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interesting test ZZT. it tends to support what I've seen. Like you I have an interest in barrel fit and every chance I get if I'm playing with a 1911/2011 I will whip the top end off and see how the barrel fits in the slide. I've yet to find one that didn't have some small front to back movement and most have quite a bit side to side too (no idea why they cut the hoods so narrow, especially factory STI). I actually think the side to side may be more of a worry as it may allow the barrel to rotate when fired but again a properly fitted lower lug (to the slide stop pin) should prevent that (though those axial forces on the pin are less than desirable). 

 

as you point out once the gun is assembled the fit of the lower lug to the pin and the fit and depth of the upper lugs is probably of most importance (as is fit at the muzzle). as long as it's locked up properly (and not putting pressure on the link) it should be very accurate.

 

I think a gun fit more tightly at the hood (both width and length) would possibly last longer without wear and without breaking pins. Leaving side to side play no doubt allows the axial force of the round being fired to transfer to the lower lug to the slide stop in rather than being restricted by the hood width. That force could cause more wear and broken pins. Once it links down it's less of an issue providing that it sits properly in the bed and that there is not excess room either side of the ramp cut/barrel bed.

 

the vid 3djedi posted shows more movement than I'd personally like but it's hard to judge properly just from a vid. I would say by eye my 2 CK's have less movement than that but they have 'some' front to back clearance at the hood. 

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BB, IMO there should be no visible movement.  In the BarSto barrel above, if you insert the barrel into the upside down slide, the top lugs will not fall all the way into the slide lugs.  It has to be pressed down.  It doesn't take much pressure, but it does take some.  It also has to be snapped out to remove.  

 

When you press down on the barrel behind the bottom lug and then press forward, there is an almost imperceptible movement.  You can feel it, but not see it.  The rear of the hood "kisses" the breech face when in battery.  By kissing I mean that magic marker placed on the breech face will still be visible after hand cycling the action a dozen time, but only about 1/3 as dark as originally.  That means 2/3 of the thickness of the ink was scraped off by the hood.  

 

So it seems to me that there must always be some minute fore/aft movement, because the barrel must cam up into the breech face to go into battery.  When I first fit hoods I took the bullseye gunsmithing manuals a little too seriously.  When they said you should have to push the barrel into the top lugs, I thought they meant with pressure.  If you fit it like that, there is no fore/aft movement.  The gun will go into battery when firing, but reluctantly.   It has to be coaxed at times.  Taking a little more off as I mentioned above cures that problem.

 

BTW, Kart recommends .003" clearance on each side of the hood, and .001" clearance for the back.

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