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Tactical Sport Orange technical thread.


NoKimberDave

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21 minutes ago, APL-G35 said:

I just ground the portion of the safety forward. So it will only rotate under the sear leg to block the sear when it's in the fully upright position. It works great. No issues anymore.

Thanks a lot for the quick reply!  I think I'm going to try to do that too.  Did you have to grind off a lot of metal?

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23 hours ago, APL-G35 said:

I just ground the portion of the safety forward. So it will only rotate under the sear leg to block the sear when it's in the fully upright position. It works great. No issues anymore.

I was just trying to figure out what part of the safety that you grinded down.  Would it be the back edge that the arrow is pointing to?  Thanks!

2663EC84-9B6F-45EC-818F-EB918CEF2899-2655-0000030B712030D2_tmp.png

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Glad to find this thread. I have a TSO in .40 and have seen many of the issues you all have.  Loose rear sight, buffer gets destroyed with low rounds, and I certainly agree the mag well fit is the worst. However, I am having a different issue I need help to solve. 

 

I am having FTEs at a rate high enough to get one or two in a match. The spent round is not fully extracted and the slide goes back and grabs a new round and jams it under the round that did not extract. This gun is as it came from the factory with the exception of me removing the buffer. Thanks in advance!

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3 hours ago, DukeNuc said:

Glad to find this thread. I have a TSO in .40 and have seen many of the issues you all have.  Loose rear sight, buffer gets destroyed with low rounds, and I certainly agree the mag well fit is the worst. However, I am having a different issue I need help to solve. 

 

I am having FTEs at a rate high enough to get one or two in a match. The spent round is not fully extracted and the slide goes back and grabs a new round and jams it under the round that did not extract. This gun is as it came from the factory with the exception of me removing the buffer. Thanks in advance!

I would try it without the buffer and see if it changes.  Also, in my experience, I have had to run an extra power extractor spring in my other TS platforms for reliable feeding and extraction. I am not sure if this is the case for others but I have had to cut a half a coil off of those springs to give the extractor the range of motion needed to pick up thr next round. When I tried installing an unmodified extra power extractor spring, it took a lot of force to get a piece of brass behind it. 

Edited by MRevolutionIX
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17 hours ago, ochenooo said:

I was just trying to figure out what part of the safety that you grinded down.  Would it be the back edge that the arrow is pointing to?  Thanks!

2663EC84-9B6F-45EC-818F-EB918CEF2899-2655-0000030B712030D2_tmp.png

 

Not causing trouble, & I respect everyones right to follow their own path, but I personally would not make the alteration shown. 

 

If you are bumping the safety on my first option would be to install the DSPerman extra power safety springs, my second option would be to confirm that the problem can not be fixed with a simple change in grip  and my third option would be to get the dremel out and modify the external leaves of the safety at the points where you are contacting it while shooting. 

 

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It's not an unsafe modification. The safety is still fully engaged in the upright position. It just keeps your hand from being able to push it up slightly and engage it.

Edited by APL-G35
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On 4/20/2017 at 11:34 AM, APL-G35 said:

It's not an unsafe modification. 

 

Could be that I am just being a sissy. That happens.

 

Fiddled with mine today. Put in the DSPerman extra power spring & ground off the leaf for lefties.

 

Was more of a pain in the butt than anticipated, the rod of the safety was wedged into the leaf on the right hand side of the gun, so the safety did not want to be pulled out & you needed 4 hands to tap the rod while holding everything else. Polished the rod-leaf contact surface smooth so that issue won't come back.

 

Also found that the safety detent spring had been mangled at the factory, probably one reason my safety has always felt a bit mushy. 

 

Stock spring - mangled spring found - DSPerman. 

IMG_20170421_124743334_HDR.jpg.44d890341557fdf0e063464eb1203ba9.jpg

A

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Ok here is another question related to my extraction issue. The gun came with two extractors. One has two dots on it, which is the one that was installed from the factory. The other has three dots. They are subtly different in shape. Does anyone know what the difference is?

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36 minutes ago, chrisstophere said:


What thumb rest is that? Did you have to drill any new holes for it to mount?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

No, I just had to use some washers so the rear of thumbrest doesn't rub on the frame....ipscalex czechmate rest

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Just another video of the TSO 40 with CGW 13lb recoil and 15lb main springs. This time instead of two rapid shots, I decided to test it while shooting a plate rack.
 

It looks like it's really slamming back hard compared to the 15-16lb recoil spring. Does it feel noticeably better going that light with a 40?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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13 minutes ago, chrisstophere said:


It looks like it's really slamming back hard compared to the 15-16lb recoil spring. Does it feel noticeably better going that light with a 40?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

I ran a 12lb recoil and 13lb main springs in my CTS and I didn't think it got any better. Originally I thought I would just run the same combination once I got the TSO 40s but when I tried them, it did feel and perform as well. I did an initial test a couple of weeks ago (I posted a vid in this topic) running a number of different recoil and main springs. The 13lb recoil and 15lb main spring combination cycled reliably and was the best compromise for recoil and follow up shots. To answer your question, It feels great with this combination. I don't think it is too light. The felt recoil sure is a lot lighter compared to the 12lb recoil and 13lb main spring combination.

Edited by MRevolutionIX
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I ran a 12lb recoil and 13lb main springs in my CTS and I didn't think it got any better. Originally I thought I would just run the same combination once I got the TSO 40s but when I tried them, it did feel and perform as well. I did an initial test a couple of weeks ago (I posted a vid in this topic) running a number of different recoil and main springs. The 13lb recoil and 15lb main spring combination cycled reliably and was the best compromise for recoil and follow up shots. To answer your question, It feels great with this combination. I don't think it is too light. The felt recoil sure is a lot lighter compared to the 12lb recoil and 13lb main spring combination.

Awesome, I might have to give that combo a try.
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/20/2017 at 8:32 AM, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Not causing trouble, & I respect everyones right to follow their own path, but I personally would not make the alteration shown. 

 

If you are bumping the safety on my first option would be to install the DSPerman extra power safety springs, my second option would be to confirm that the problem can not be fixed with a simple change in grip  and my third option would be to get the dremel out and modify the external leaves of the safety at the points where you are contacting it while shooting. 

 

Thanks for the input!  Just so happens I saw you comment after I made the material removal modification last night and came back to the forum to share what I did.  That being said, I had been trying to modify my grip to ride the left side safety but my fingers are on the shorter side and my thumb only partially rode the safety.  Consequently, when I shot, my thumb slipped off of the top of the safety and my grip is compromised.  So I shoot with my thumb under the safety on the left side.  That said, it was actually my trigger finder bumping the right side safety upwards in recoil that was activating the safety.  Before going further, I think it's important for me to point out that my safety had quite a bit of free play in it before I installed the DS Perman spring and modified the safety.  The safety would move up slightly and the gun would be rendered safe.  Mind you that the entire red dot indicator (and then some) was still visible so clearly the safety was. It meant to work this way.

 

As for what I did...  I actually did two things.  1) Installed a DS Perman spring and 2) Ground off about 1.5 mm of metal on the safety as discussed above.

 

Before doing the modification I removed the slide and I could see exactly what the problem was.  (Please excuse the terminology that I use in the following section; I don't know all the proper names of the parts). The nub (for lack of a better word) on the inner rod section of the safety was already extremely close to going under the sear.  I would estimate that there was only about 0.5mm to 1mm of distance between them.

 

So I removed the safety and the ejector/seat cage.  With those parts removed, I replaced the safety detent plunger and safety detent plunger spring.  I installed the DS Perman spring (which was slightly tricky given the increased pressure it produced).  I then put a narrow diameter stone grinding wheel on my Dremel and very slowly removed some material.  I'd say that I may have removed 1.5mm of material (before removing the material, I saw that when the safety level was fully engaged, there was about 3mm+ of metal on the safety nub that pivoted under the sear to render the gun safe).  Then I reinstalled everything and it works great!  It took me a while to reassemble everything as a lot of pieces have to go in "just right".  The gun now has a safety with a very positive action and  I don't think I will have the accidental, trigger finger, recoil-induced, inadvertent, safety activation anymore.  I'd point out there is still some very very minor play in the safety, but it seems necessary given the gun is a mechanical  instrument.  I would venture to guess that the DS Perman spring alone may not have solved my problem.  Only in combination with the removal of material in the safety lever do I think the problem would be been resolved.

 

Apologies for the long post but I was so thankful for all of the help I got from this forum that I wanted to post the details to help anyone else who might be experiencing the same problem that I was.  If anyone is interested in getting more details on exactly what I had to do to get everything to work/go back together, please reply here and let me know.

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10 minutes ago, ochenooo said:

Thanks for the input!  Just so happens I saw you comment after I made the material removal modification last night and came back to the forum to share what I did.  That being said, I had been trying to modify my grip to ride the left side safety but my fingers are on the shorter side and my thumb only partially rode the safety.  Consequently, when I shot, my thumb slipped off of the top of the safety and my grip is compromised.  So I shoot with my thumb under the safety on the left side.  That said, it was actually my trigger finder bumping the right side safety upwards in recoil that was activating the safety.  Before going further, I think it's important for me to point out that my safety had quite a bit of free play in it before I installed the DS Perman spring and modified the safety.  The safety would move up slightly and the gun would be rendered safe.  Mind you that the entire red dot indicator (and then some) was still visible so clearly the safety was. It meant to work this way.

 

As for what I did...  I actually did two things.  1) Installed a DS Perman spring and 2) Ground off about 1.5 mm of metal on the safety as discussed above.

 

Before doing the modification I removed the slide and I could see exactly what the problem was.  (Please excuse the terminology that I use in the following section; I don't know all the proper names of the parts). The nub (for lack of a better word) on the inner rod section of the safety was already extremely close to going under the sear.  I would estimate that there was only about 0.5mm to 1mm of distance between them.

 

So I removed the safety and the ejector/seat cage.  With those parts removed, I replaced the safety detent plunger and safety detent plunger spring.  I installed the DS Perman spring (which was slightly tricky given the increased pressure it produced).  I then put a narrow diameter stone grinding wheel on my Dremel and very slowly removed some material.  I'd say that I may have removed 1.5mm of material (before removing the material, I saw that when the safety level was fully engaged, there was about 3mm+ of metal on the safety nub that pivoted under the sear to render the gun safe).  Then I reinstalled everything and it works great!  It took me a while to reassemble everything as a lot of pieces have to go in "just right".  The gun now has a safety with a very positive action and  I don't think I will have the accidental, trigger finger, recoil-induced, inadvertent, safety activation anymore.  I'd point out there is still some very very minor play in the safety, but it seems necessary given the gun is a mechanical  instrument.  I would venture to guess that the DS Perman spring alone may not have solved my problem.  Only in combination with the removal of material in the safety lever do I think the problem would be been resolved.

 

Apologies for the long post but I was so thankful for all of the help I got from this forum that I wanted to post the details to help anyone else who might be experiencing the same problem that I was.  If anyone is interested in getting more details on exactly what I had to do to get everything to work/go back together, please reply here and let me know.

Special thanks to APL-G35 for the insights and detailed info that allowed me to modify my TSO so that I now feel great about purchasing the gun!

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