paul788 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Decided to switch back to round gun and ordered a 929. Apex website states "out of stock" on N-frame hammers. Wait or get out the Dremel? If I cut is there a diagram available to show where to cut to or is it hack till it looks good? Does the firing pin need to be changed out or should I try it as is? Thanks Paul Beck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I'd order a backup hammer from Brownells, or Numbrich Arms and do the work to the backup hammer. Look for a pic of the Mike Carmoney Hammer. Basically it's a straight cut from the tip to the outside of the pivot hole. Polish it and you are done. I've gotten my trigger lighter doing this than any other method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian B Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I believe an extended firing pin in the Smith & Wesson revolver is essential to accommodate the different thicknesses of moon clips that are available. I have had an extended firing pin in my model 610 for several years and enjoyed the reliability. I am just now installing the extended firing pin into my new model 929. Good luck!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmo Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 4 hours ago, AzShooter said: I'd order a backup hammer from Brownells, or Numbrich Arms and do the work to the backup hammer. 42 minutes ago, Brian B said: I believe an extended firing pin in the Smith & Wesson revolver is essential to accommodate the different thicknesses of moon clips that are available. Very good advice ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoots100 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I would also like a bobbed hammer, but can't find the correct hammer style. Every N frame hammer I find is steel and has the hammer nose/firing pin on it. I've done every type of trigger pull enhancement. Ext firing pin, .040" moon clips, springs and polishing. It's firing reliably with fed + win primers and a smooth 6lb DA pull now and I'm wondering if bobbing the hammer would improve it, or leave it stock ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 FWIW on my 627 I left the spur on, doesn't interfere with my grip, and my action is set at 5 1/2 lbs using fed primers haven't had any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intel6 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 (edited) here is a pic of one. This is heavily lightened but may help you with locations to lighten however much you want. Edited February 11, 2017 by Intel6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Intel6 said: here is a pic of one. This is heavily lightened but may help you with locations to lighten however much you want. That is my work and that is my "IDPA" hammer. "IDPA" requires the gun to not cycle when the cylinder is open and the tang on the back blocks the bolt from coming forward and letting the gun cycle. USPSA and ICORE or steel gun I remove the tang off the back and make a straight cut with some additional lighting after the straight cut. IDPA hammer takes a LOT more metal finishing to make look right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherokeewind Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Any chance of a pic of your ICORE/USPSA hammer? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 (edited) Edited February 11, 2017 by Bosshoss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherokeewind Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoots100 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 On Thursday, February 9, 2017 at 6:54 AM, AzShooter said: I'd order a backup hammer from Brownells, or Numbrich Arms and do the work to the backup hammer. Look for a pic of the Mike Carmoney Hammer. Basically it's a straight cut from the tip to the outside of the pivot hole. Polish it and you are done. I've gotten my trigger lighter doing this than any other method. Numrich Arms was the only place I could find a hammer. Luckily I live a couple hours away from them, so I'll be able to have it before the weekend and have the work done to fit and test it next weekend. I also ordered all of the parts to make it a drop in assy, and will carefully remove the single action notch and make it a true DAO pistol. I won't trim off weight as much as the hammers above, but maybe I'll take a drill + dremel and clean out the inletted areas of the hammer if I'm feeling adventurous. Thanks for bringing this up Paul. I needed another winter project to keep me busy, as the snows been coming down and more is on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul788 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Glad to be able help. If you run out of hammers to molest I have a large bin of 9mm brass you can sort by headstamp for me. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 38 minutes ago, shoots100 said: Numrich Arms was the only place I could find a hammer. Luckily I live a couple hours away from them, so I'll be able to have it before the weekend and have the work done to fit and test it next weekend. I also ordered all of the parts to make it a drop in assy, and will carefully remove the single action notch and make it a true DAO pistol. I won't trim off weight as much as the hammers above, but maybe I'll take a drill + dremel and clean out the inletted areas of the hammer if I'm feeling adventurous. Thanks for bringing this up Paul. I needed another winter project to keep me busy, as the snows been coming down and more is on the way. I leave the single action notch on all the guns that come thru the shop. Removing it doesn't effect the DA pull in any way. Leaving it in and being careful you can still shoot SA for working up loads, etc. The biggest reason I leave it in is if you break a firing pin or firing pin spring during a match just pop the side plate off and pull the hammer back until SA notch catches and then change the firing pin. No SA notch requires three hands or removing the mainspring. Just make it easier and like I said it doesn't effect the DA pull so no reason to remove it. IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoots100 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I'm a southpaw and pretty much every revolver I have is DAO, so it's just what I'm used to. I've just never had to do the work myself. If I wasn't able to get another hammer, It would stay the way it is. If I don't like it, I'll go back to the stock hammer. As far as changing the pin at a match, a couple of good rubber bands work as a third hand and I keep some in the range bag working double duty keeping my moon clip and mag pouches secured. Unfortunately, I've been there. Paul, send me the brass, but before sending it back, I'll need to test fire it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intel6 Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 22 hours ago, Bosshoss said: That is my work and that is my "IDPA" hammer. "IDPA" requires the gun to not cycle when the cylinder is open and the tang on the back blocks the bolt from coming forward and letting the gun cycle. USPSA and ICORE or steel gun I remove the tang off the back and make a straight cut with some additional lighting after the straight cut. IDPA hammer takes a LOT more metal finishing to make look right. Bosshoss, I didn't know who's work it was to give them credit. I had just saved this pic because of how much metal you took off and when the OP asked for pics of the current hammers that had been lightened I remembered I had it. The USPSA/ICORE hammer is even more amazing, awesome work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 On 2/11/2017 at 5:43 PM, Bosshoss said: I leave the single action notch on all the guns that come thru the shop. Removing it doesn't effect the DA pull in any way. Leaving it in and being careful you can still shoot SA for working up loads, etc. The biggest reason I leave it in is if you break a firing pin or firing pin spring during a match just pop the side plate off and pull the hammer back until SA notch catches and then change the firing pin. No SA notch requires three hands or removing the mainspring. Just make it easier and like I said it doesn't effect the DA pull so no reason to remove it. IMO So you're saying when you change out a firing pin you take the plate off, put all the pivot pins under load, and change the firing pin? Why not just take the mainspring out instead of risking damage to your pivot pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 The only pin I worry about is the rebound spring pin and I don't make a habit of doing it but with the reduced power springs we run it doesn't hurt it any. The hammer and trigger pivot pins run unsupported all the time anyway so it doesn't make any difference. If you measure the hammer pivot pin and the hole in the side plate the hole is bigger than the pivot pin. It has been a while since I measured it so I won't trust my memory to give a measurement difference. It would have to be a slip fit to offer any support and then the side plate probably wouldn't go on because it has to go on top first and then have clearance to slip over the pin. Now if the gun bound up and someone hamfisted the trigger trying to pull it anyway the pin would deflect and the side plate hole would stop it from bending to much and snapping. S&W has started putting in a tapered end pin instead of a square end pin, when repairing a broken hammer pin. On one of my guns that has this pin for a repair, if I put the side plate on without the hammer in, the bearing surface of the pin is over .020 from going in the hole. The taper is in the hole but it is no where close to touching anything. That gun has over 10K running that way. No worries doing it the way you are but in a safe area at a match the quickest and easiest is what I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoots100 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Bobbed and drilled my spare hammer (Didn't cut the SA notch yet) and set the DA pull weight at 6lbs. 100% Fed primers, 99% with wolf, 50% with Win primers. Bumped it up to 6.5 lbs. 100% fed, 100% wolf, 98% Win. Bumped to 7lbs, 100% all primers. With the factory hammer, I wouldn't get reliable ignition on all primers till I was at 9lbs. In one of my posts above I wrote that I had 100% ignition with win primers at 6lbs, but that was a typo. I set it back to 6lbs and will use it that way till I run out of Fed primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 TK Custom has some hammers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherokeewind Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 On 2/11/2017 at 0:24 PM, Bosshoss said: Any chance of a profile view (side view)? Thanks:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 20 hours ago, shoots100 said: Bobbed and drilled my spare hammer (Didn't cut the SA notch yet) and set the DA pull weight at 6lbs. 100% Fed primers, 99% with wolf, 50% with Win primers. Bumped it up to 6.5 lbs. 100% fed, 100% wolf, 98% Win. Bumped to 7lbs, 100% all primers. With the factory hammer, I wouldn't get reliable ignition on all primers till I was at 9lbs. In one of my posts above I wrote that I had 100% ignition with win primers at 6lbs, but that was a typo. I set it back to 6lbs and will use it that way till I run out of Fed primers. i'm impressed that the wolf primers performed better then the winchesters. I would of assumed wolf primers were hard as a rock. anybody else have similar results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I've heard they are reasonably sensitive but have always been hesitant to buy them. Might give these a try if I run out of Fed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerassassin22 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Does lightning the hammer lighten trigger pull also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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