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Advice for revolver selection


reed88152

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Hi all, this is my first post and I signed up for this question as well as to gain general knowledge. 

Ok so I am in the market for my first revolver. Currently I am looking at the 627 PC and pro. Now I know most of the differences but I still have some unanswered questions.

 

1. Is the price increase worth the PC?

2. How's the balance between the two? (I had a 6" GP but the draw was entirely to long)

3. I will use it for local, not very rule scrict, steel challenge and as a good overall revolver.

4. I will shoot only 38 special through it and reload eventually.

5. I need it to light of any ammo for the time being.

6. I will most likely outfit it with tk moonclips, comptac holster, and a BMT mooner.

 

So having all of this available is there a better revolver of the two for me? Is there a better revolver in general? And would anything else be worth investing into the guns?

 

Finally money isn't the largest issue but as a college kid the more saved the better. Provided I get the better, for my needs the first time. 

P.S. I have also, though in a completely different class, considered the 5" rhino

 

All thoughts and opinions welcome

 

Thank you,

reed88

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Go with the PC.  It's a great gun especially for Steel Challenge matches.  I like the 5 inch barrel over the 4 inch.

 

TK moon clips are great.  I highly recommend them and the BMT Loader/Unloader.

 

Don't  give up the 8 round capacity.  Shooting steel you would only have one extra round for a makeup shot.  I have been known to need all 3 extras.  If you have to reload think of a two to three second loss of time at best.

 

If you can, get American Eagle 158 grain lead loaded ammo.  It has Federal Primers so you can lighten the action some. 

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3 hours ago, perttime said:

627 PC has 5" barrel and Pro 4"?

They have 8 shot capacity

Chiappa Rhino has 6 shot cylinders. The concept is interesting. Wish I could get one in my hands to try...

 

Does capacity matter to you?

Coming from shooting semis yeah I think it does. 

3 hours ago, AzShooter said:

Go with the PC.  It's a great gun especially for Steel Challenge matches.  I like the 5 inch barrel over the 4 inch.

 

TK moon clips are great.  I highly recommend them and the BMT Loader/Unloader.

 

Don't  give up the 8 round capacity.  Shooting steel you would only have one extra round for a makeup shot.  I have been known to need all 3 extras.  If you have to reload think of a two to three second loss of time at best.

 

If you can, get American Eagle 158 grain lead loaded ammo.  It has Federal Primers so you can lighten the action some. 

How much work outside of shooting the snot out of it and dry firing is really needed if so what first? I tend to just use and use and use my guns until they are second nature before I start messing around with them. Also what's the round count life with 38's and a few 357?

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The powder charge is so light with some bullets, even in short colt, that a 4" taking a bit more powder might let you set your powder bar a bit more reliably.  Most serious competitiors use the 5" PC.  Personally I do to, but I really want a Pro as a back up and carry gun, Maybe next year.

 

Your usual plan is spot on. Then try a few others competition revolvers if you get a chance. At the start you can back off the strain screw and blue loctite it.  You don't want to leave it like that, but for practice and local matches it's fine.  Just don't back it off so that you interfere with the rebound of the trigger.

I even like the factory s&w rear sight on the PC, just change to the appropriate height FO FS they're the classic so they just snap in/out.

 

Then:

Chamfer cylinders

check/clean up throat/forcing cone and muzzle.

do a polish job on the action, check out Miculek's DVD

adjust the main spring to your liking for feel & reliabliity, set the strain screw so it's bottomed out though more reliable

get a pack of rebound springs and try them to get the final feel you like.

 

At some point contact dave hearth, hearthco on this forum, and get a lot of his competition moon clips, the ones that work with starline are best, they'll work with any 38 short colt, special and magnum starline case. It'll be your next biggest expense, get the best right on as some have said buy once, cry once.  I have over 100 so I can do a Nationals without reloading a moon clip, just don't like the chance one gets stepped on and I won't know until it's in the cylinder.

 

That's it, have fun.

Edited by pskys2
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The only significant difference between the 627 pro and the PC is barrel length and of course price. If you prefer the 4" barrel from the pro get one, however if you like the additional sight radius of the 5" barrel your choices are limited. As your skills with a revolver improve you will want a smoother and lighter double action pull, both guns require similar work to achieve smoother double action pulls. Both will shoot anything from powder puff loads to heavy 357 loads.

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Your most important options, after shooting the heck out of it is a trigger job.  You can do your own by following the video by Jerry MIculek.  I've done most of my triggers that way.  When time came I added an Apex Hammer.

 

Chamfering the cylinders will help you on your reloads a bunch. 

 

There are  a lot of good gunsmiths out there that can do the work for you.  Apex is not accepting revolvers at this time.  Look for gunsmiths on the forum and you will find a good one near you.

 

Dry fire 5000 times and your trigger will feel smoother.  Replace the Main Spring and the Rebound Spring.  Get a Wolf Reduced Power Mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring.

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Reed

 

you have the right idea with moon clips and such. Buy once, cry once. Starline brass is simply superb. It lasts forever and is pretty uniform. 

 

Get your handloading gear before you buy a revolver.  It will pay for itself quickly given the current cost of revo ammo. Any fast pistol or shotgun powder, federal primers (or Winchester in a pinch), and a good cast bullet. I use Bullseye, Titegroup, clays, and red dot in 38 - depending on what's available. All work well. Quality bullets make the accuracy difference for me. 

 

I dont recommend the PC shop revolvers. My experience with them over the last 15 years has been uniformly disappointing. 

 

If you thought a 6" Ruger was unwieldy you might seriously consider the 4" revo.  

 

Please try to shoot the PC and Pro 627s a couple times before you plunk down your cash. Also watch for a used one on this forum. Don't get in a big rush. 

 

Why should you care?  I have been shooting S&W revolvers since I bought my first police trade in about 35 years ago. I currently have two 627s and really like them. The 4" barrel is fine (my 625 and 629 are 5" guns).  

 

All that said, I am always on the lookout for a 5" barrel to put in one of my 627s just to try out. 

 

Also, don't overlook the 929 In 9mm. If you already shoot a botttome feeder, a 9mm revo might simplify things.  If I weren't already an avid 38 shooter, I would buy the 929. 

 

Hope yhis helps. 

 

-John 

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Thank you so much for all of the replies so far. I hadn't really considered the 929 because I don't think I would like the balance in hand due to the longer barrel length the 5in was pushing it for me on the 5" PC. For any consideration however my current general use auto for all sports and competitions is a cajunized P09 which I love it puts me in first place nearly every week I go. However, I was looking into a revolver because, well, dang, its just plain fun. This may also explain my critical obsession over the balance and barrel length. 

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+1 to the balance with the Ti cylinder on the 929. If it meets all the other criteria and you just don't like the length then cut it down.

After the expense of the gun having a barrel cut, crowned, and new front sight installed isn't much if it comes to it. 

I'm very happy with my 929, and using the same load I use in my semi's is just icing on the cake. 

 

Kevin

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The differences between a 5" PC and 929 drawstroke are unnoticeable. They're listed as a half ounce difference. 

 

Full weight 929s have won the steel challenge in both revolver divisions. 

 

The difference between the feel of the two is the balance. With the heavier cylinder, the 627 feels like it transistions faster with the weight back on your hands. On the clock, there's no difference. If you really wanted to cut some weight, a lightweight barrel on the 929 would be ideal. 

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I have a 929 that had action work (smoothed/lightened trigger), chamfer and polished charge holes, cylinder trued, the front sight drilled for a FA insert and ball detents added to the crane (in the open position). I think that was all. Oh and the hammer bobbed and the regular muzzle cap was reamed out a bit to discourage leading.

 

I'm not a good competitor period but I enjoy socializing and I appreciate having good tackle. I belong to a club that is home to one of the top revo shooters and I flat out asked him what I should get to shoot steel and USPSA and he said get  a 929 so I did. I added a Hogue big butt (rubber without finger groves) and a large cylinder release so with all of the action work and add-ons I have about roughly $1,700.00 in it, plus moons and a competition belt/holster. I see a bunch of other competitors using the 929 for both steel and USPSA.

 

So then I got the idea to add a red dot. Ok, I have only shot USPSA local matches and only a few so I'm not committed and since I don't really want to shoot open because I have a red dot I decided to concentrate on steel for the time being. I just installed a C-More RTS2 with Allchin mount, that was another $450.00, so I have way over 2 grand into the thing.

 

So why am I writing all of this? To be honest the whole thing has been one big head game for me, do I get this and add that or do I get that and add this? The thing is if you want to shoot both USPSA and steel you probably will want  2 guns unless your using open sight for both. Or you don't mind competing with semi-autos in open uspsa. This I personally don't want to do so If I compete in uspsa this year or maybe even next it will be in production auto. Leave the 929 revolver for steel.

 

As far as the 929 is concerned mine has been fantastic. I seriously love this gun. I handload using federal primers, bayou coated bullets and titegroup powder and I use only federal brass (range pickup) and I have not had 1 single issue with this gun in I would say 7000 rounds fired. I had for a time thought that I would get a 627 PC and put the optics on it for steel (for the shorter barrel) and keep the 929 for open sight revo but at this point I'm planning (future) on getting another 929 to keep the one I have company. I'm not a big person and the N frame is at the limit for me grip size wise but the weight and balance are fine, if anything I have a tendency to bring it up too fast on the draw. So I would recommend that if you can get a chance to try one take advantage of it.

 

BTW, one comment, both of my new revos (the 929 and a 686) had approx. 14 pound triggers out of the box. I kind of view trigger work as a requirement on new S&W revolvers. As another poster mentioned you should get started handloading. With a light trigger you will need to use Federal 100 small pistol primers regardless if you go 929 or 627. Again I offer this as an opinion as I'm not a tour de-force in the competition world but I like my 929.

 

MWP above mentioned getting a shorter barrel on the 929. One of the guys I shoot with on a regular basis and posts on this board had his 929 barrel cut to 5". I will see how this works for him before doing anything as drastic as that myself. Should know soon.

Edited by firewood
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Thank you all for so much wonderful advice on this, what I think, is actually a difficult decision. I have narrowed it down to the 929 and the 627 PC due to all the advice I have received as well as my own research, heavily, into the matter. By all means this in no way means that I will still not seek and listen to the advice still given. 

 

So lastly since we have worked everything out on the balance and feel I will try to find these to hold, not to easy to do in my area mind you, and I will ask this. 

 

I have read on here and other places about a few problems with the 929 accuracy, incorrect diameters, and maybe some extra care on a titanium cylinder. So how true are all of these?

 

Also I may be leaning toward the 627 PC for those reasons, if they are founded, and because I think, I could absolutely be wrong, that if I just wanted to go to the range with a few loose rounds and have some fun then I would be better off with the PC but I still couldn't say for sure. 

 

Again thank you all for your advice, and firewood, that 929 with a chopped barrel sounds amazing, I think, and so far this site is amazing I have throughly enjoyed joining this community thank you all for your help and advice. 

 

P.S. Someday both will be mine and both will have multiple variations and backups because, well, why not?

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Reed

 

Dont be put off by the early problems with 929. The same problems exist in any model. S&W will fix any manufacturer defects. They are very good about warranty work. 

 

Also dont overweight the Performance Center label. I have seen no quality differences between PC and regular production revolvers. 

 

It all all comes down to whether you want to shoot rimmed 38 ammo or rimless 9mm. Since you have said you will buy moon clips, there's no advantage either way on accessories. 

 

You will get action work done or do it yourself (it's not difficult) on either revolver. No advantage there. 

 

Handloading will enhance your reaults with either because you can develop a load to match your game and shooting style. Don't give factory ammo any weight in your comparison, except maybe component cost (about equal anyway). 

 

Make your choice and don't look back. 

 

Like I said earlier, I am heavily invested in 38 caliber revolvers. That said, I am actively looking for a 986, L-frame 7 shot 9mm revolver. 

 

Whike you are deciding, get a Lyman reloading handbook, and one from the bullet maker you like (Hornady, Sierra, Nosler, etc). Start studying on making your own ammo. Understand the process and how components affect results. It might help you decide on a revo. 

 

Ultimately, take comfort that you won't have any trouble selling either revo if you decide you don't like it. 

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My $.02 is All Smith revolvers come from the factory as a realy nice kit so you or your smith can build the gun you actually want. Pick the model that is closest to the gun you want in the end and start there.

Case in point I ran into a shooter this week end with a new 929 that would only set off 2 to 4 rounds per moon clip, totally stock.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry its been a while since I responded. Again thank you all for the advice I greatly appreciate it however today, on my birthday, I went and picked up my 627-5 PC and I must say it is beautiful. I lucked into it really as my local gun shop, small and relatively revolver poor, had this sitting in the case. I picked it up and fell in love, as did the wife which is nearly, or just, as important. I am supremely happy with my purchase and now know this. This will not be the last there just seems to be something about this clockwork of a gun that appeals to me and I already want more. Thank you all for your help on this decision and I sure you will hear more from me in the future as I start to evolve with this style of gun because well its just a bit sexier than my autos. Hopefully, revolvers can find a re-kindled spirit in those who are in there 20's like me and its not just all plastic fantastic auto's  

 

I would upload a pic if I had any Idea how

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On 2/6/2017 at 8:02 PM, reed88152 said:


I have read on here and other places about a few problems with the 929 accuracy, incorrect diameters, and maybe some extra care on a titanium cylinder. So how true are all of these?

 

I'm one of the folks who got a 929 lemon so I can verify that the reports are true. A lot of folks have worked through (or haven't had) issues apparently so perhaps you would be fortunate.

 

If you get one I would not plan on being able to use the same brass / bullets / sizing die / recipe as you might be using on other 9mm guns, although again some folks seem to be fortunate here as well. Also moon clips are much more of a pain (expensive, need to fit brass very tight, etc) than what you might be used to if coming from something like a 625. 

 

For what it is worth. 

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