thompsoncustom Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) So i've had a SJC 11 port compensator that has been a headache and a half keeping mounted, at first the comp was contacting the barrel so I sent it off and had it milled so it was not contacting the barrel bushing or frame but still the loctite only holds 50rds max. Have tired permatex red, loctite 271 & 272 with primer with no success. My question is how much torch should the compensator have on it at it's final position? Currently it has zero when lined up there's no load on the threads and I'm thinking that a big part of the issue. I've also contacted loctite and was surprised how fast loctite looses strength with any heat so I bought some rocksett but testing that on a bolt without any load on the threads came off with little force. So what do you guys think? I've now made a crush washer and i'm going to test it with either 272 or rocksett once I figure out how much torch I should put on the comp. Edited January 30, 2017 by thompsoncustom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Hello: Drill and tap the comp for a set screw. Use Green LocTite as well. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) 31 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said: Hello: Drill and tap the comp for a set screw. Use Green LocTite as well. Thanks, Eric That's the way I solved it (until I bought a Trubor, now I don't worry about loose comps) I think the fact that the comp is aluminum and the barrel is steel has more to do with the loosening than anything else. Edited January 30, 2017 by Bkreutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompsoncustom Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 ya i've thought about the heating rates too, kind of wanted to avoid the set screw but that's what i'm doing next if this doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottieShootz Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 rocksett would be my next go to, but getting it off may be a pain in the future. Or set screw to make life easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 set screw is a great idea. 2 set screws is even better. it means you don't have to crank the single one up so tight. 2 will hold it nicely. 3 of my 4 open guns have 2 set screws (1 SVI and 2 CK arms). The 4th one that doesn't have any had the comp come loose after 12 mths.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Expflier Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 SJC recommends red hi~hi temp loctite for their comps (info on their website about comps). There is no torque value that I'm aware of due to the fact it has to be aligned with the barrell. It kinda sounds like the threads are worn out in the comp since it's made from aluminum. Mine would hold up for a few thousand rounds with the hi temp red but I switched over to the 2011 crowd. A set screw may be your only option, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompsoncustom Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Rocksett and crush washer failed quicker than the 272 so set screw it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
357SIG Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 This should solve your problem LOCTITE 648 Retaining Compound - high strength. High temperature resistance. Ideal for retention of parts with a clearance or interference fit. LOCTITE 648 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. It exhibits a robust curing performance. The product also works on passive substrates and offers high-temperature performance and good oil tolerance. Your benefits High temperature resistance Proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils High strength on all metals, including passive substrates (e.g. stainless steel) Ideal for retention of parts with a clearance or interference fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) I'm no expert on the topic, but I find the Al comp on one Open gun comes loose very quickly if you shoot fast and really heat things up. The steel comp on my other Open gun has never come loose, and it is not pinned, nor does it have a set screw. I'll also note that I have an almost identical steel comp for the first gun (two fewer small side bleeders), and it stays tight much longer than the Al comp. Edited February 6, 2017 by zzt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Forget the crush washer. It's not going to work as the slide moves away from the barrel while cycling. Also you don't want the slide pushing the barrel forward by the comp. that will lead to cracked slide or comp. crush washer only works on guns like a 22/45 with simple blowback where the barrel is fixed (then you can use a washer between comp and barrel shroud). The solution here is 2 set screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkheard Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I posed the set screw question to SJC. Their response follows:Set screws will tilt the comp and can lead to baffle strikes. Use "272 loctite it is red but its also high temp. Also make sure your degreaser is actually a degreaser. Some products that cut oil actually leave an oily residue.Last, torque applied to a hot comp by a holster barrel nipple can sometimes lead to comp clocking.I've had this problem on both the 5-port and the 11-port. On the 11-port, the clocking showed up at the first match. I used red loctite on both. Seems like it clocks when it gets hot and I'm shooting fast. I'll look for 948 and try it. We'll see how it performs. TKH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 5 hours ago, tkheard said: I posed the set screw question to SJC. Their response follows: Set screws will tilt the comp and can lead to baffle strikes. TKH You should be using a align reamer when installing a comp (with or without set screw). That way baffle strikes are eliminated. They're not very expensive, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Loctite 620 has a 450 degree Fahrenheit rating and takes up a heap of clearance. I have used it on alloy, ti and steel comps with good results. Primer is always a good idea with stainless - even after degreasing. The stuff locks up pretty quickly so work smooth and fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkheard Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I have acquired Loctite SF 7649 primer and Loctite 620 to use on my comp. I'll degrease with acetone and then prime. 620 has the highest temperature spec that I found. EGW is out-of-stock on the alignment reamer, so that's the pacing item. I'm going to hold off on set screws until I try this combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPostman Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Used Blue loctite on mine when I had my open Glock, never had a problem with it coming loose. It was attached to a KKM barrel. Comp was cerakoted too. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theWacoKid Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Obviously many of us have figured this out but just to make sure it's clear... Cleaning well, primer, and 620 will hold your stuff with authority. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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