Quirk Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Would like input from anyone with confident expertise on how deep the swage rod should be on the 1050. I cut a few cases (these were purportedly surplus mil brass with crimped primer pockets but I've found most in this lot actually were not crimped...I deliberately bought them from on online vendor so I could use them to set up my swaging station properly. Oh well. The first few pics are with swage rod set a bit low, the last 2 are with it set a bit deeper. Which is correct/best, or what change do you recommend? <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/darkrayz1/embed/slideshow/"></iframe> Thanks Quirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armydad Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 I'm glad you posted this. I processed some and thought I had the setup correct, but when I tried loading primers on crimped brass, they wouldn't seat. I was probably adjusted similar to your first 2 pictures. I cut a case as you did and adjusted the swage rods to fully seat, perhaps a little more than your 3rd and 4th pictures. I can feel an ever-so-slight cam-over, so I'm thinking I might have it set a bit aggressive. I haven't tried seating primers yet with this setup as I wanted to hear from someone with experience doing this. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 i honestly dont know. ive tinkered with mine, and when i get everything close to where i think it should be either its an inconsistant swage, or the backup rod smashes the flashhole burr into the flash hole closing it off, etc. thus far havent been impressed by this feature on the press or the less than stellar instructions in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 I didn't change anything since press came from the factory a little more than a year ago, and since then I loaded 35k+ on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armydad Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Mine came setup for 9 mm. Worked fine. I've since added a toolhead to process 5.56, and therein lies the rub. Arkadi, your picture helps a lot and makes it seem obvious how to set it up. I didn't pay close enough attention to mine when I converted and the Dillon manual photos weren't cutting it for me. Yours is great. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) I did the case cut out, was never real confident with the results, and still had primers getting smeared with some crimped brass. Here is what has worked for me. I ordered a primer pocket GO-NOGO gauge (Ballistic Tools), took 8 or so crimped cases, sized/decapped them, then ran them through swagger until they all passed the gauge. So far so good. Edited January 22, 2017 by GregJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 armydad, glad it's helpful. Mine is set for 9x19. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx/ffb-small-primer-swage-rod-for-dillon-1050-v2/54/ The instructions here were pretty helpful. Looking at your pictures, I must be swaging the crap out of my brass, because I've got the swage rod set where the tip pretty much fills the entire primer pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Don't get too hung up with the cutaway case thing. That is good to get you in the ballpark but then you run sample pieces to tweak the adjustments. You are looking for the swagged case to have a nice annular flare around the mouth of the primer pocket. Use a low power magnifier to inspect. Then seat some primers to prove you have a working setup. Remember there should be no or minimal shellplate deflection during the swage, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quirk Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Thanks for replies. I will try to find some confidently crimped 9mm brass and fine tune it that way. Might be screwed up too far now, it does deflect up the shellplate at the swage station... Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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