highhope Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 (edited) 19 hours ago, Sniperboy said: Edited December 31, 2016 by highhope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhope Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 (edited) 8 minutes ago, ARy said: You're using a disconnector for a CZ. The bolo has different dimentions. Yes, you are right. They have different dimensions. But bolo also contact with the frame as the " polished mark " shown in his picture 4 above. So that's the very hard resistance come from! Edit -Hey man, you should listen too. Please just explain the "polish mark" on his figure 4. Thank you man! Edited December 31, 2016 by highhope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhope Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 4 minutes ago, ARy said: Do you realize most people here, that have properly tuned their guns, have a buttery smooth pull in DA, with no stack?! Again, using the T3 is on you, but you're dumping waste water in the ocean by coming here and acting like the symptoms are relatable. Again, Please just explain the "polish mark" on his figure 4. Thank you man! Please dump some useful fresh water not only just yelling at people to buy your BOLO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhope Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 7 minutes ago, ARy said: I'm not yelling at you to buy the bolo - what I'm saying is stop polluting the sub forum with t3 symptoms that you think are relatable to the bolo. Why? Because when you do that, there will, no doubt, be a few people that think they should modify the BOLO because of your postings. The WE end up having to help people that ruined their bolo or fielding more tech issues, because of your posts. I'm not sure if you know, but we help every single person that contacts us. So when you start clogging the pipeline with your misinformation, you take that time away from other people. And just so we're clear. I don't want you to buy a bolo. You're happy with the T3 and I'm happy for you. Okay? ?☺ Sure, I definitely don't want to mislead the people with bolo. I come here to discuss and learn. I have edited my post to "not mislead" the people. If as you said " The bolo just barely contacts the frame" that's great! But one thing I don't understand, and could you help me with that " Pull the trigger from hammer down, at the time right before DA breaks, does the bolo nose stlll contact with frame "barely", not firmly contact? " BTW, thank you for all your work on the BOLO. Actually, I do plan to buy a bolo this morning to give it a try, I do not reject "good product". Happy holiday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Actually, a t3 questions are GOOD... but should be in a thread about t3. NOT in a thread about poor sniperboy and his (non-t3) gun. By the way, I fit 2 t3's. Totally a nightmare.and it only gets 25% of the bolo benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) John I did try to isolate all the parts replacing only one by one and even removing certain parts like the sear, hammer one by one to test. None seemed to bind. I did however meet up with haiedras & DOODS - what a great bunch of folks : ) thank you again for your time. Thanks for your insight highhope. DOODS also commented his concern about my polished runaway. That polished surface was caused by the STOCK disconnector. Using a trick DOODS showed me we placed a piece of thin wax paper in between the frame and stock disconnector. It pinched the paper and we were not able to pull it out. Confirming contact. I placed the BOLO with Titan hammer in my pistol just now and performed the same trick. As ARy mentioned the Bolo barely touches the frame and the wax paper could be pulled out even when the BOLO barely ran on the frame. Anyways long story short both haiedras & DOODS gave me some tips on areas to study. The kicker is ofcourse - remember that analogy I made with Microsoft Word and dumb I.T. questions? Haiedras simply looked at my pistol real hard, as in Grade School Principal hard, put lube on the rear of the trigger bar and put it back together. When I brought it home the DA pulls are around 6.5lbs (the Titan and BOLO gave me some wild range from 5lbs-6.5lbs) for both stock and TITAN hammers and 3-3.5lbs SA. Looks like problem solved and I feel like a nincompoop. Haven't shot anything but Glocks in years so I never even thought of lube. To borrow a page from MM's book "Putting shit together bone dry, I now know why I am still single." Seems like the problem has gone away. (Insert dunce smiley here). I hope the gremlin stays away! I will leave you with one tip though I got from DOODS. In itself is worth ONE-MILLION-DOLLARS. Use a thick gauge hypodermic needle to manipulate the sear spring leg. See pic. It gives you move leverage and control AND has the added benefit of you NEVER FORGETTING to flip it to the side when putting it back together. Edited January 1, 2017 by Sniperboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Of course... You were dry, bare metal-on-metal at the most important interface between components that affect the double action trigger pull. Obvious. In hindsight. Also, don't lube it like a Glock. I found quickly that dousing every pin and hole and part in oil and running it really wet seems to work just fine. As long as you aren't oiling the hammer and slide rails so much that they sling it back into your face, the Tanfo platform doesn't make much of a mess when run this way like a Glock would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Sniperboy said: Anyways long story short both haiedras & DOODS gave me some tips on areas to study. The kicker is ofcourse - remember that analogy I made with Microsoft Word and dumb I.T. questions? Haiedras simply looked at my pistol real hard, as in Grade School Principal hard, put lube on the rear of the trigger bar and put it back together. Yea dude, lube is very important in these guns, and 1911s or any other steel guns. I use grease on some of the higher pressure bearing surfaces like the slide rails and some of the pins. I have little tubs of Aeroshell strewn about my shooting bag and house. I use it for ARs mostly, but have gotten into the habit of using it on my 1911s and my tanfos. Edited January 1, 2017 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) I used to be a 1911 snob for a very long time when I started with firearms. I haven't really shot them in near a decade. I also don't lube or clean my Glock, purely for sport (I only do it 3 times a year) I sometimes forget how. Thanks guys for sticking with my madness. In other news... BOLO dropped in - no incident. Extended firing pin block dropped in - no incident. Fit one piece sear to safety, successfully - no incident. As a public service since I had no idea what tool to use when I first did research I used what I believe to be a diamond wheel (tube) on the dremel to grind then finished off with a rubber polishing cylinder... I think anyways. Using a side to side motion under the sear. The diamond tool was the same tool ARy used (except ARy used a cone shape) to chamfer the bottom of the plunger head). The small diameter matched the bottom of the sear quite well. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/7123-diamond-wheel-point https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/461-rubber-polishing-cylinder-point I am now with a 5.5lb to 6.5lb DA (with the occasional strange 3lb 13oz DA) + 3.25lb SA which was my original goal. If this can light up Win primers I will be satisfied. Gad dang it! ...and Snipey lived happily ever after. (until the next crisis that is ) Edited January 1, 2017 by Sniperboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) Just remember to keep the internals well lubed now... Once they are polished, they will rust. That coating that we remove to lighten the pull is the only thing that keep weather off those parts... Once It's gone, keep A nice coating of oil in there. I am EXTREMELY anal with my firearms... If I know I won't be shooting them for a while, I will really saturate the internals. Then before I shoot I go and clean them all off and relube with less oil so as to attract less carbon. Then after every outing it comes completely apart again to get cleaned and reoiled. It's been my habit for a while with certain guns. I have different regimens for my precision guns than I do pistols. But that's for another thread Edited January 1, 2017 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) Good call Ryan. Once again something I overlooked and didn't even think of. haiedras & DOODS today did mention the rust on the top of my plunger head which was caused no doubt from days upon days on my bench dry while my Stock2 was apart. I've since doused my Tanflango in lube. Ah, I remember this feeling, from long long time ago. Old friend, you have come to visit me once again! Happy New Year everyone. Edited January 1, 2017 by Sniperboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 I'm a big fan of using grease (Slide Glide, naturally ) to lubricate the trigger components, springs, and pins, rather than oil. Grease doesn't get slung off when shot, tends to stay where you put it, and allows you to go longer before you need to re-lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 If you have not fit the safety yet check for interference between the safety and sear leg with the safety off, this can happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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