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Surrender draw help


CAB33

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Then I couldn't help you much.  Play with where youhold your hands.  Remember the rule is hands above shoulders, visible from behind.  Anything beyond that is up to you. I know one GM who holds his arm up like he's asking a question in class vs Jerry M's chipmunk hands.  I shoot SS and keep my strong side a bit out to help get behind the beaver tail and my support hand a little in to get down to my stomach quicker.  Yours will be different from mine due to holster differences but its all to say that you can personalize. It's hard to give specific advice because in L everyone wears their holster in a different position, angle, and height. Universally I'd say to try to position your strong arm in a manner that reduces movement, which usually means keeping your elbow as stationary as possible, like a pivot point.  

Edited by jkrispies
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Start with your hand on the gun and slowly bring your hand(s) up to the start position. That is your start position. Dry fire the crap out of that with a timer decreasing par as you go. You may have to make small tweaks to your holster position to get a clear direct path to the gun.

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I shoot Carry Optics with a S&W CORE in Steel Challenge and USPSA. I have found that a consistent hand start position... that can then be practiced in dry/draw is an asset. I bring my hands up to my muffs, open the hands, and touch the muffs with the thumbs of both hands. Once you have a specific hand position you can play with holster position to get the most consistent draw stroke.

It does little good if you whip out a 1 second draw on one string, and then fumble a 5 second draw on the next. A consistent hand position at the start helps keep me from 'screwing the pooch'.

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What are you shooting?  There's a big difference between production or single stack setup versus an open or limited rig.  


I disagree. I shoot production, single stack and revolver. I use a race holster in revolver. It takes only a few practice draws in the safety area for my hand to remember where the handgun is. I don't think it's beneficial to change divisions very often, but my experience is that the draw is not where the problem lies.

Ideally, we draw with the least amount of wasted motion. I found it helpful to practice in front of a mirror. Do you push down on the gun before lifting it from the holster? Do you move your shoulders or do your head? Movements like this are unnecessary and take time, then we rush other things trying to go fast.
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  • 1 month later...

The way I practice, and I do this at start of every dry fire session is to set the time to a par time of 2 seconds at first. I concentrate on getting my movement and grip perfect during the motion. I do 50 reps. Then, I reduce the time to 1.5 and repeat, then 1.2, 1.0, 0.9. I also make sure that I am drawing to an A zone with sights aligned as the gun comes up. I do this from surrender and hands at the sides. 

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6 hours ago, alotur said:

...I find that when I am rushed my grip is terrible and my first shot is crap.

 

When you are rushed, you tend to get tense. And when you get tense, you are no longer accurate, or even fast.

You need to get the hand on the grip, accurately, with no wasted movement - and sights on the target, with no wasted movement - and no perceived stop in the middle.

It might be good to start at a very relaxed pace to find the track your hands need to make, and increase speed until you start missing the grip or target. Get used to the pace where you are barely accurate enough. Somebody mentioned starting with your hands on grip and in front of your solar plexus, lifting them, and then reversing that movement. That should work. The movement can be very powerful, but don't let it become tense.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

When I'm dry firing from wrists above shoulder, I start by doing several draws like this: Move my strong hand down to the gun and support hand to down in front of my belly FAST, aquire a perfect grip SLOW, then present out to sight picture FAST. 

 

This fast, slow, fast thing gets me into the mindset of being sure I have a perfect grip.    You can have a Stoopid fast draw but not hit anything if the grip is wrong.

It's also very important to start with your hands in a consistent position each time.

 

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This. I start and finish every dry fire session with this drill. Both freestyle draw and surrender.  10 at 5 seconds, 10 at 4 seconds, 10 at 3 seconds, 10 at 2 seconds, 10 at 1 second.  When both types of draw are done that's 100 draws.  200 if done twice.  I absolutely guarantee you will improve your draw even if you only run this drill once a day for a week no matter what you shoot, limited, single stack, open, it only matters you practice with what you shoot.  This type of practice lets you fine tune every aspect of the draw, and immediately commit it to natural movement.

 

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That's cute I guess but what about starting at 1.5 seconds and going from there? If you aren't quite at 1.5 adjust accordingly but not sure what starting at 5 seconds is supposed to do for you.

 

edit: watched the video and I like what he does at the end for sure but I think you can cut most of that out. Shooting 5 second draws is just burning ammo

Edited by waktasz
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